Radiator fan always on - driver side
 

The fan is running whenever the ignition is in the ON position. My 95 is running a DIYPNP 2, wired as Brain advised:

2.2k resistor on R14
WLED --> 1L (radiator fan)
Input 1 IN --> 1Q (A/C switch)
Input 1 OUT --> PE1
ALED --> 1J, 4S
Input 2 IN --> 1V
Input 2 OUT --> FLEX
PA0 --> BOOST IN
BOOST OUT --> DB pin 15

Neither RELAY 1 or RELAY 2 is in use.

I'm assuming the issue has to do with the WLED setting. I took a screenshot of TunerStudio.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447471073

What numbers are normally here? These were the defaults on the basemap.

settings looks correct.

what happens if you reverse on and active?

Same result.

I've noticed the car seems to take forever to heat up. Would that have anything to do with it?

did you calibrate the AIT and CLT ?

Yes, according to these instructions. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot.

To clarify, the problem still persists.

Probably a stupid question, but is the AC on?

Nope. Never hurts to guess. While we're speculating...could it be a bad thermostat?

No. The ms is controlling the fan.

What is your clt temp in tuner studio.

I happened to take a screencast earlier today while my car was idling for a question I had in another thread. The temp read 45° F from a cold start and was slowly creeping up.

Here is my basemap if that helps. Attachment 155029

Any other places to check? The A/C idle up doesn't seem to be responding either. Not sure if that's related.

Did you make sure the relay is working? Stuck open?
I tested that the small terminals had 12v so the relay was being sent a signal to turn on.

I have the exact same problem. The problem goes away with the OEM ECU installed. I recently had to pass smog and returned the car to 90% stock.

This has to be map configuration or how you built the DIYPNP.

the WLED output is built into the microquirt module. The only way I could see WLED constantly being active is if you something jumped WLED to a ground, or configured your map wrong.

The above settings are exactly what I send with my basemap.

The fan should only come on if the coolant reaches 200°F and TPS is under 85% TPS. Since it's coming on when you have confirmed your coolant temps are reading well under 200°F, I'm leaning heavily to be mechanical.

If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening.

I'm assuming that the fans run even if you uncheck enabled from the configuration settings above?


If youre having issues with ALED too that really makes me think there's a larger issue. Maybe reflash the firmware (3.4.0), make sure you select option 3 when it prompts for the MS variant.

I am almost certain the wiring is correct. I soldered it with a friend (he did the soldering) and we both verified before putting the board back in the casing. This is the assembly guide I followed and this is the jumper configuration I used, the exception being the wiring I mentioned in my original post based on your recommendation. I'm also using a sequential module, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. I could pull out the board again and snap a couple pics if that would help? I attached my msq above, but I think you'll find it looks identical to the settings you described, as it was based off the one you originally provided me here.

Correct.

Option 3 is microsquirt-module.ini correct? I swear that's what I chose when I originally downloaded the megasquirt-2 firmware from here but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try again...is that the best course of action at this point?

Well I updated firmware and still have fan on all the time. I think its the miata not the diypnp at this point.

what year miata? 90-93?

what happens if you unplug the thermoswitch?

Have you tried plugging the factory ecu back in and turn the key to the accessory on position? When I use my oem ecu, the rad fans only turn on when the required temp is reached. But with the MS installed, the fans turn on as soon as I turn the key to acc on.

That's the fault of your poor tuning abilities.

I verified that a led is hooked up to fan but even with that out put turned completely off the fan runs all the time. It was working when I got the car running again about a month ago (for the first time in 3 yrs) so I know that it can work.

I believe at this point it something in the miata maybe a fault with the ac or something that is telling it to be on all the time.
If all else fails I might wire the aled directly to fan replay and take the ac switch out of the fan loop.
Running out of ideas.

it's not the ac switch.

there's only two ways the cooling fan is going to run in stock form: 1. the thermoswitch 2. the a/c relay is triggered.

if you supect it's the a/c switch, then im assuming your a/c fan and a/c compressor is also running 100% of the time -- but if that were the case I'm assuming you'd have mentioned it.



here's what I'd do to narrow things down:

unplug the thermoswitch. It's possible it failed open.
unplug/replace the fan relay. It's possible it failed open.
Check TFA in the diagnostics box. With the car off, check to see if TFA is grounded. If it is, unplug the ECU and see if it goes away. If it does, it's your ECU. This could be a failed component on the microsquirt, or it could be bad jumpers, or bridge connections due to solder joints or something.



be smart about this.

My ac is not currently working but I will get out a multi meter and see if its telling it to work.
The relay is fine I checked it with a multi meter and the relay is being told to open (small terminals have power telling the relay to open).

I truly appreciate the advice and I will get to work on it.



OP did yours ever get fixed?

My MS is a Braineack built dynpnp, it has always done this regardless of the firmware updates and base maps I load on it.

When you said "If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening." Where you referring to this part of the board?

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1448913015

no. those are for pull ups.

look left of BOOT.

see WLD and ALD. youre not using WLED for anything. I'm assuming ALED is used for fans -- is it going to 1R?

It looks like its not going anywhere... could this be my problem?

well is 1L going anywhere? from the connector board to mainboard?

early builds I used pa0 or pe1 or pt7 or pt6 and used the relays on the mainboard instead of aled or wled directly.

who was the original owner?


Sorry 1R is 90-93 and 1L is 94-95. Trying to deal with two people are once.

I see a wire going into it in that pic and going under the microsquirt module. relay 3 maybe?


definitely an early build since the a/c switch is not tied into the MS to control a/c idle up.

Nope, just what appears to be a cut wire. I did have a friend "help" me rewire the MS since it was originally for a 91-93 Miata. My friend did have a 93 fully megasquirted(first gen I think) and running. I figured he knew a lot more than I, so I didn't double check his work.

see my ninja edit above.

The original owner went by superstreet or something similar to that. He didn't last long on the forums since he didn't search and had thin skin. But he live in the same town as I and I bought his pieced together turbo kit.

1L is going to pa0.

My car doesn't have ac or power steering.

yeah that wont work and why it's always running.

you need to move the output to ALD or WLD if unused.

Thank you!

To be clear, I need to connect 1L to WLD correct?

correct, then set it up accordingly in the on/off settings.

I am glad you got it fixed Gregor,
I am still working on it.
I tested yesterday and I can turn the unjumped wled on and off but the ald aled is always ohm testing as ground when power is on to the diypnp.
Unpluging the ecu does shut off the fan.

I have unplugged the thermostat on the front water neck and plugged it in.

Would it have anything to do with Power steering plug or ac plug not being attached?
Could changing the resistor for the Vvt circuit to 5v effect anything? I did that around the time this started happening.
Cant pin point when it started I could have not noticed for while but I know it was working a month ago.


Would anyone agree moving the R1 jumper from ALD to WLD might fix the issue?

is your DIYPNP controlling VVT? Like on/off?

No diypnp is not controlling vvt.
Have vvtunner. There was a signal wire to the diypnp for a while but I had interference in diypnp. So I changed the resistor to 5v circuit as detailed in vvtunner instructions. Still was interference so I changed power sources for vvtunner.
Now they are not connected to each other at all. 1.6 Cas is running diypnp. Cam and crank sensor running vvtunner.
I will get the exact change when I get back to real computer on phone now.

Here are changes made to diypnp:

VVTuner

If you have swapped in a VVT motor from a '01-'05 Miata and wire the sensors directly to the DIYPNP, sharing them with the VVTuner (instead of using pass through mode), connect the R3 resistor in the 5 volt position instead of the 12 volt. Using the 12 volt may cause sync problems.

why do you have a jumper on R1 and/or R2?

I have a wire connecting ald to 1r in the ecu harness. Sorry not r1 but is connected to 1r. Wow this can get confusing. Brain I appreciate your help Sir.
You seem to be helping everyone on here. I hope you know how much it really is helping us lost newbs.

okay, yeah try moving 1R from ALD to WLD and then make sure to copy those settings over (assuming WLD is free)

Gregor, did you get it working?

I haven't had s chance to test it yet. I've been getting long hours at work lately, but I'm off tomorrow. I'll stay up late and test tonight and post results.

I'm also adding sequential injection at the same time, hopefully I got that right.

Well, the fans are no longer constantly on. But now the car won't start, I need to do some more research on sequential injection.

lol. :P

Hmm...maybe I'll just deal with my fan problem for now. :D I also have sequential injection and it seems to be working. I used these instructions if that helps.

Thanks for the link, that was one of my several bookmarks. I just came back from a test drive. The fans no only come on when the right conditions are met(Thanks Braineack).

Now, I need to figure out why it won't idle after I park it and start it up warm.

Did you get the firmware updated?
It did help my idle to update it. All the buttons are in different places but there placement make more sense so it only takes a while to get used to.

I will give that a shot when I get back home. I thought it may be a heat soak issue with the IAT sensor. I will get more info as I start to drive the car again. It will be down for a short while since I just picked up a 6 speed tranny.

I wanted to update my fan issue for anyone searching. Not that I 100% figured it out but it is the ac system. I basically removed the ac relay wire that turns the fan on when ac is on.
With my 1990 that's the black with green strip wire at relay by drivers head light. I used a little flat screw driver to remove the pin. So once I figure out Ac issue goes right back.
Once ac was not telling fan to turn on ms diypnp does it no problem.

Now to find out wtf is going on with ac but it's winter I have time. Lol

a/c relay activates the a/c compressor, a/c fan, and main cooling fan relay.

Thanks your correct.
My compressor clutch is not kicking on while I was trying to figure this out. It also does and did not turn on via button in dash. Might be broken.

Second fan was never reinstalled after mishimoto radiator.

I am going to try a new ac relay but I believe by removing only black green wire from ac relay I removed the wire that the relay uses to tell the fan relay to kick on. In my mind even if I never reconnect it ms will turn fan on at 185 whether ac is on or not. Might loss some ac cooling with less constant air flow over condensor?

Before I start messing with anything on my car I wanted to post a shot of the soldering on my DIYPNP2 on my 95 to see if it might be a hardware issue.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1456882660

Brain, and anyone else who knows what to look for, do you see anything obviously wrong? I finally have a turbo kit to install and I want to sort this out first!

I can take some photos from another angle if that would help...I'd like to resolve this fan thing and it doesn't seem to be a software issue.