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Old 11-13-2015, 11:17 PM   #1
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Default Radiator fan always on - driver side

The fan is running whenever the ignition is in the ON position. My 95 is running a DIYPNP 2, wired as Brain advised:

2.2k resistor on R14
WLED --> 1L (radiator fan)
Input 1 IN --> 1Q (A/C switch)
Input 1 OUT --> PE1
ALED --> 1J, 4S
Input 2 IN --> 1V
Input 2 OUT --> FLEX
PA0 --> BOOST IN
BOOST OUT --> DB pin 15

Neither RELAY 1 or RELAY 2 is in use.

I'm assuming the issue has to do with the WLED setting. I took a screenshot of TunerStudio.



What numbers are normally here? These were the defaults on the basemap.
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Radiator fan always on - driver side-80-dptppcw_bbd9d68b227cd3c6749d2ab6cd4066ab97aae8ae.png  
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Old 11-14-2015, 10:28 AM   #2
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settings looks correct.

what happens if you reverse on and active?
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Old 11-14-2015, 12:14 PM   #3
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Same result.

I've noticed the car seems to take forever to heat up. Would that have anything to do with it?
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Old 11-14-2015, 12:43 PM   #4
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did you calibrate the AIT and CLT ?
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:22 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
did you calibrate the AIT and CLT ?
Yes, according to these instructions. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot.
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Old 11-14-2015, 08:56 PM   #6
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To clarify, the problem still persists.
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:08 PM   #7
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Probably a stupid question, but is the AC on?
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Old 11-14-2015, 09:20 PM   #8
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Probably a stupid question, but is the AC on?
Nope. Never hurts to guess. While we're speculating...could it be a bad thermostat?
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:04 PM   #9
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No. The ms is controlling the fan.

What is your clt temp in tuner studio.
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Old 11-14-2015, 11:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
No. The ms is controlling the fan.

What is your clt temp in tuner studio.
I happened to take a screencast earlier today while my car was idling for a question I had in another thread. The temp read 45 F from a cold start and was slowly creeping up.
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Old 11-15-2015, 11:10 PM   #11
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Here is my basemap if that helps. windows95-15nov2015.msq
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Old 11-18-2015, 02:53 PM   #12
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Any other places to check? The A/C idle up doesn't seem to be responding either. Not sure if that's related.
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:30 PM   #13
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Did you make sure the relay is working? Stuck open?
I tested that the small terminals had 12v so the relay was being sent a signal to turn on.
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Old 11-20-2015, 12:38 AM   #14
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I have the exact same problem. The problem goes away with the OEM ECU installed. I recently had to pass smog and returned the car to 90% stock.
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:43 AM   #15
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This has to be map configuration or how you built the DIYPNP.

the WLED output is built into the microquirt module. The only way I could see WLED constantly being active is if you something jumped WLED to a ground, or configured your map wrong.

The above settings are exactly what I send with my basemap.

The fan should only come on if the coolant reaches 200F and TPS is under 85% TPS. Since it's coming on when you have confirmed your coolant temps are reading well under 200F, I'm leaning heavily to be mechanical.

If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening.

I'm assuming that the fans run even if you uncheck enabled from the configuration settings above?


If youre having issues with ALED too that really makes me think there's a larger issue. Maybe reflash the firmware (3.4.0), make sure you select option 3 when it prompts for the MS variant.
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Old 11-21-2015, 02:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
This has to be map configuration or how you built the DIYPNP.

the WLED output is built into the microquirt module. The only way I could see WLED constantly being active is if you something jumped WLED to a ground, or configured your map wrong.
I am almost certain the wiring is correct. I soldered it with a friend (he did the soldering) and we both verified before putting the board back in the casing. This is the assembly guide I followed and this is the jumper configuration I used, the exception being the wiring I mentioned in my original post based on your recommendation. I'm also using a sequential module, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. I could pull out the board again and snap a couple pics if that would help? I attached my msq above, but I think you'll find it looks identical to the settings you described, as it was based off the one you originally provided me here.

Quote:
I'm assuming that the fans run even if you uncheck enabled from the configuration settings above?
Correct.

Quote:
If you're having issues with ALED too that really makes me think there's a larger issue. Maybe reflash the firmware (3.4.0), make sure you select option 3 when it prompts for the MS variant.
Option 3 is microsquirt-module.ini correct? I swear that's what I chose when I originally downloaded the megasquirt-2 firmware from here but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try again...is that the best course of action at this point?

Last edited by Windows95; 11-21-2015 at 11:58 AM. Reason: links
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Old 11-29-2015, 05:42 PM   #17
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Well I updated firmware and still have fan on all the time. I think its the miata not the diypnp at this point.
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:36 PM   #18
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what year miata? 90-93?

what happens if you unplug the thermoswitch?
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90 Turbo View Post
Well I updated firmware and still have fan on all the time. I think its the miata not the diypnp at this point.
Have you tried plugging the factory ecu back in and turn the key to the accessory on position? When I use my oem ecu, the rad fans only turn on when the required temp is reached. But with the MS installed, the fans turn on as soon as I turn the key to acc on.
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregor View Post
But with the MS installed, the fans turn on as soon as I turn the key to acc on.
That's the fault of your poor tuning abilities.
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