*

 

are you going to use MegaView?

all the diodes and 4 caps have polarity.

 

The thing with pin 9 of the DB9 is only an issue if you've got it grounded on the other side. I honestly can't remember what the specific circumstance is where it can result in a short, but in all the MSs I've used and built, the DB9 has been unmodified, with pin 9 connected. A standard PC serial port interprets pin 9 as RI, which can safely have +5 applied to it.

In terms of polarity... Resistors are nonpolarized, as are most of the capacitors on the board. Inductors, fuses, the MOV and the crystal are also nonpolarized.

Diodes (including LEDs) are polarized, as are the larger electrolytic capacitors. The orientation of transistors is also critical.

EDIT: Megaview... That was the one that caused problems. Thanks, Brain.

 

Alright so I got a little overzealous and forgot to look at the component map on the sticky and installed:

R44, R45, R46, R47, R48, R49, R50, R52, R54, R56,

U7,

C31, C32



I know that there are some components you shouldn't install like the bias resistor ( the blue ones ? ) and I know some of those are part of the VR circuit which I'd like to keep, but will any of those cause me trouble?

 

Alright so I'm almost done. I'm on the the .1µF capacitor mod for the HiRes code and I cannot find that cap in my kit. The kit comes with 10 caps and they're all used up according to the component map in the MS instructional thread. It's also not mentioned in the 'parts needed' section either. Can't really find a place online either that sells them.

 

I got mine at radio shack, super cheap. Radio shack got very familiar with me during my MS assembly.

 

This is one of the few parts Radio Shack still sells. P/N 272-1069 or 272-1053. Both should be in stock at any full size store that has the four-column parts cabinet. I think even mall stores with the two-column cabinet will have one or the other.

Not a problem for any of 'em. Even the VR circuit is OK, as you won't actually be jumpering it in at the Tsel or TachSelect positions.

 

Thanks guys, you've been really helpful.

 

having the extra components doesn't do anything. .1uF has to be purchased outside kit...

 

Yeah, it threw me off when it wasn't mentioned in the "How to make and install your own Diy MS" thread that you needed to buy it. The whole thread seems to be really in depth and I figured if it wasn't included it would mention it needed to be purchased separate. Again, thanks guys.

 

Can you get high res with msII?

 

lol yes.

 

MSII/Extra uses a hardware timer for PW resolution by default. The MSI/Hi-Res code mimics this...

 

testing out scott's awesome implementation of the strikethru? if only his icon wasn't the wrong color and fuzzy!

 

yeah yeah yeah.

 

I knew if I just asked you to fix it, it'd never get done.

but for some reason, now it looks fine!

ugly

 

Got my cap today, ended up buying both the ceramic cap one and the metalized film cap just in case. Any preference on which is better to use or does it not matter?

Also, since I don't have a stim I want to check those contacts on those tiny transistors like Q13-15 and make sure I didn't bridge any connections. I've got an ohm meter and was planning on using that but was wondering if it's ok to use it on sensitive components like that. Correct me if I'm wrong but if I read anything other than infinity I've got a bridge.

 

put your multimeter in diode mode (where it'll chime if there's continuity.)

 

What if there's continuity when there's no visible contact between them on either side?

 

So on to the harness. I'm going for boomslang and there are three turquoise contacts on the diagram: Fans, Idle and Clutch. What has got me confused is I've only got one of the three coming off the DB37 and that is idle. Am I supposed to just connect idle and forget about the other two?