bcrx7

iTrader: (5)

yeah, the sensor on a friend's miata didn't last more than a week. We have a new sensor ordered now and we will see how it goes.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

This is my second sensor and second controller. If this doesn't get right i am going to go with another WB solution.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Well i believe Scot's and my theorys on WB being junk are correct i cant get less than 14-1 on this one. so it is probably junk i will move on to another type of wB as i am tired of LC1. On the pluss side i was probably not running as rich as i thought, cause 2scoops and i added a little fuel here and there and helped it quite abit. then i took a ride with my dad driving just now and added a little more and the car is now driveable. So it is getting closer.

FoundSoul

iTrader: (5)

Where is the LC-1 grounded? Is the main ground at the ECU ground wire, and the heater ground somewhere else (good ground bolt on chassis will work)? If that's the case then do a full heater cal and free air cal- to do this remove the sensor from the exhaust, and unplug if from the LC-1. Then power on the car/LC-1 for at least 30 seconds (I usually do for a full minute), then power off, plug the sensor back in, and power on. It will heater cal and countdown to completion, takes 10-20 seconds maybe. Then do a free air calibration.

Lastly make sure whichever output (there are two) is configured for 0v=10:1, and 5v=20:1 in the LM-1 programmer... heck, go ahead and set both to this to be sure. Also make sure in MegaTune you've chosen the 0-5v 10-20 AFR LC-1 and not the 'Innovate Default' LC-1.

I can honestly say that properly installed (grounds are the most common culprit) and calibrated I have NEVER seen an LC-1 fail to work properly and give excellent readings... I have seen multiple 'pro' shops install them wrong as they're just too good to read the docs, and occasionally they come to us to sort them out. I recently had a WRX STI race car pull in the shop the week before One Lap with an LC-1/XD-16 combo, swearing that it was busted. 15 minutes later, after grounding it to a ground instead of the painted body bolt they had it on that barely had any ground to offer at all, and then doing the above procedure for heater cal and free air cal, it was working perfectly. They took 9th overall and 2nd in their class at OneLap this year in that STI. The LC-1/XD-16 never skipped a beat.

I can't speak to your situation as I'm not there unfortunately... but 95% of the issues I've seen have been bad grounds. If you do a heater cal or free air cal with the unit grounded poorly the readings will then be WAY off until you properly ground it and re-cal the unit completely. With that being the main issue I see it's always the first place I look...

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

yes i had a very good body ground initialy, since i have moved to engine ground and another engine ground somewhere else on the block. My Gauge is just a normal ebay gauge from DIYnitroustune. I might take another look at my calibration on MS and the grounds. This is my second controller so i hope it is ok and i can get it working but the results thus far make me sceptacle. Thanks Jerry you guys are awesome.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah if it was 0-2v then that could explain it....

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

MS software is set correctly for 0-5 and the LC1 is set for 0-5 as well. Like i said this is my second set of grounds controller and sensor. the second sensor being from you guys this time. maybe i will try a new hot feed. does any one know the output of the power port we usualy use for out timming lights this is my power source for now? Also ive tried to calibrate with my laptop but i never get any indication that anything is working also LM1 wont run on any of my avialable com ports for logworks this might just be an issue with my PC though.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

switched power you can take from the blue pin/box in your engine bay

RE the logoks issue, on two seperate LC-1's i had the same issues.

On mine, ifyou looked inside the socket the was a piece of plastic sprue that hadn't been trimmed which stopped the audio jack from seating home properly, (one of the connections is the metal base)

the other issue was that the female end was extremly tight and the plug needed a LOT of force to seat it home. once it was seated home it was fine.

I don't think the quality control is great on those ports.....

akaryrye

iTrader: (5)

heh, ive had some issues connecting to the LC1 myself, I should try this out.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

I'm using a Powerdex AFX. 8+ months, 14psi, and rough tunes. It's still working.

What a/f are you guys (normallly) running at 10psi? Idle? Cruise? I'm just wondering how bad im frying my engine. hehe

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Idle 13:1 (only way I can get it smooth ...
cruise 15/16.5:1
WOT 100kpa 13:1
100kpa+ 12.5:1

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

That's about where I'm at.

10psi 11.8-12.2
WOT 13-13.6
65mph cruise is 14.0-14.6
Idle 12.2-14.2 (hard to dial in for some reason it wanders all over)

That's getting me about 23mph average and I'm not wasting any on-ramps. I'm probably pulling too much timing though. I haven't really tuned that yet because I have no idea when it needs to be for this engine. I've converted a few maps from other people but those looks like hell in 3d view so I made my own from scratch.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

I'd go half a point richer at WOT but apart from that looks good, 23mph is slow tho, damn parasitic turbo's, you want a proper power adder

Seriously tho 23mpg is even more shocking, I take it you boot it quite regularly? most people know who've fitted turbo's have seen an increase in mpg after the novelty has worn off!

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

I am assuming that we can run relatively lean AFRs because of our low compression? I keep thinking 10s like high compression/ big boost. Even rich, I am still getting 26mpg, just like I always have.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

23mpg not mph. Sorry@typo

The car was 18mpg na when i got it and went to 16mpg with the first turbo "kit" (diy) using a fpu and -4deg base 6psi. With the EMS and 10psi now I get alot more control then the bandaids I had like the fpu. If I don't beat on it I get 25-28. What do you mean by boot it?

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

same as what you mean when you say beat on it

boot the throttle, nail it etc etc.

lazzer408

iTrader: (1)

Ok. I was wondering if it had to do with the top being up or down.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Well i got in and started to trouble shoot the problem some more today and came to the conclusion that LC1 sucks the LM programmer software sucks and I am on my own with tunning my car. while confirming the program and recalibrating the 02 sensor the programmer would not let me input the right outputs on the signal's and was trying to default to a custom Af range of 1000 some odd etc and would not allow me to set it to 14.7-1 and have it stay there. Bottom line i am about to have a bon fire with this ebay **** ihavethebestpricesonperformance at ebay must be selling some major bootleg factory damaged goods as this is the second controller from him. :( So to recap grounds good, power good LC1 evil any questions.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

call Felipe at innovative...he usually answers the support line and will walk you through the problems....he was helpful in servicing mine...which was faulty and I go a new one on the way...

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

Innovative does not offer support on non sponsored vendor products. unless i call up and say DIY shipped it or some other sponsored vendor they will not help me. They told me to get a refund before. All of these quality controll issues realy make me wonder though if LC1 is as good as people make it out to be.