Trouble setting up DIYPNP
12-20-2010, 11:37 PM
#1
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Trouble setting up DIYPNP
I cannot set the throttle on/off to 255 each on initial setup. The software gives "values cannot be the same" error. The car has idle surge most of time when trying to stabilize, got it sort of steady but still not great...please help. I followed brains directions to the tee.
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12-21-2010, 08:38 AM
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I'm more than capable of figuring that out, based on brains directions. However, what do I put for values on a regular 5 speed tps? I have an idea, I tow it up to Diy and you guys make it work for me?
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12-21-2010, 08:56 AM
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I did that actually figuring it wouldn't be far off. Still having surging idle issues, I'm thinking this could still be due to timing map issues based on my low compression. It seems to be fine timing wise etc. But the margin of error on the throttle body idle screw is very small to keep something that's close to stable.
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12-21-2010, 09:27 AM
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tuning the PID idle can be fun. the timing advance can have direct effect on the idle speed...if you see if moving around at idle, i bet it moves with the rpms. try to get the idle cells on your timing map to stay more steady.
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12-21-2010, 10:03 AM
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When I set it to ten degrees it was dead still. I haven't messed with the pid idle at all I was still thinking timing, it's something I'll try and get back to everyone.
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12-21-2010, 10:23 AM
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Sounds like you need to work on your fuel and ignition tables. You'll need to get the idle area of these tables better dialed in for your setup before you can tune the idle valve.
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12-21-2010, 12:31 PM
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IIRC it wont tune at idle....and it wont autotune ign.
You just want to make sure the AFRs stay stable at idle, so work on those first 4-6 cells to be closer numbers to each other.
I hope they backport the Idle VE table to MS2 soon.
You just want to make sure the AFRs stay stable at idle, so work on those first 4-6 cells to be closer numbers to each other.
I hope they backport the Idle VE table to MS2 soon.
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12-25-2010, 01:33 PM
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I'm having a similar problem with the TPS signal on my manual 96. I have mine plugged in still, as the DIY application doc says to calibrate the TPS normally. So, what gives? Are we manual miata guys supposed to go without a tps, unplug it and use these 254/255 numbers in calibration? Or, are we supposed to calibrate the boolean tps normally? Or, do we really need to switch up to the auto tps and does that simply plug into the 94-97 wiring harness?
My issue is that I still have the tps plugged in and I get the same values for open and closed throttle. Both values are right around 100 at 99-101. However, I can't find any real voltage at the TPS with the key in "On" and the engine not started. I've checked all combinations for voltage. Does any voltage show up at the TPS without the car actually idling, or does it only run voltage when you hit the "Get Current" button in MS? Where should voltage be measured and is it 5V that should show?
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'd like to get to the bottom of this total TPS issue for myself and others for once and all.
My issue is that I still have the tps plugged in and I get the same values for open and closed throttle. Both values are right around 100 at 99-101. However, I can't find any real voltage at the TPS with the key in "On" and the engine not started. I've checked all combinations for voltage. Does any voltage show up at the TPS without the car actually idling, or does it only run voltage when you hit the "Get Current" button in MS? Where should voltage be measured and is it 5V that should show?
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'd like to get to the bottom of this total TPS issue for myself and others for once and all.
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12-25-2010, 01:56 PM
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I'm having a similar problem with the TPS signal on my manual 96. I have mine plugged in still, as the DIY application doc says to calibrate the TPS normally. So, what gives? Are we manual miata guys supposed to go without a tps, unplug it and use these 254/255 numbers in calibration? Or, are we supposed to calibrate the boolean tps normally? Or, do we really need to switch up to the auto tps and does that simply plug into the 94-97 wiring harness?
My issue is that I still have the tps plugged in and I get the same values for open and closed throttle. Both values are right around 100 at 99-101. However, I can't find any real voltage at the TPS with the key in "On" and the engine not started. I've checked all combinations for voltage. Does any voltage show up at the TPS without the car actually idling, or does it only run voltage when you hit the "Get Current" button in MS? Where should voltage be measured and is it 5V that should show?
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'd like to get to the bottom of this total TPS issue for myself and others for once and all.
My issue is that I still have the tps plugged in and I get the same values for open and closed throttle. Both values are right around 100 at 99-101. However, I can't find any real voltage at the TPS with the key in "On" and the engine not started. I've checked all combinations for voltage. Does any voltage show up at the TPS without the car actually idling, or does it only run voltage when you hit the "Get Current" button in MS? Where should voltage be measured and is it 5V that should show?
Not trying to hijack the thread, but I'd like to get to the bottom of this total TPS issue for myself and others for once and all.
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12-28-2010, 05:51 PM
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I have been messing with this for a few days now the fuel load goes in a circle from 1000 rpms back down to 700 rpms in a clockwise fashion fuel load from 1000 rpms,40 down to the right then back to 25 at 700 and then up to 45-50 at 700 and back to 45 or so at 1000 again. Making a circle basically which follows dip in RPM. Tried adjusting AFR targets to 14.7 in these areas, still having issues.
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12-29-2010, 12:09 PM
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I went ahead and tried the whole autotune thing while idling and it kept adjusting the 3rd and 4th row to something close to 200%-red- at 700rpms making the car want to stall. The more it "helped" the higher the fuel load in the lower rpm cells got. At one point the car idled perfectly at 700 at a nice fuel load, so figuring it was improving I autotuned again and it got worse and worse. Is there any way I can record the fuel load tables at idle, to show you guys at DIY whats its doing and email it to you guys?
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