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Well, I don't think here is a misunderstanding on your side, you have two blown engines in your garage.
To your point "Trying to figure out how he even come up with that ignition table":
There is like a 1 : 1000000 chance, that wondrously all the cars he tuned were 8° retarded in base timing, but this simpy can't be, so...
Yeah, that's a **** ton of timing for 250 kPa. Fuel map is definitely a little rough and tumble.
The AFR table's highest bin is 200 kPa and set to 11.4 AFR which would also have been targeted at 250 kPa, too lean for that boost level IMHO.
EGO Control is set up to be active under WOT; not necessarily a problem if the authority tables are used properly, but this tune is allowing 20% authority under all conditions. Having the ability to pull 20% fuel at WOT/full boost is giving the MS a really, really long leash.
Well it’s below 150% tps, so it’ll never activate.
11.4 IMO is the richest you’d want to target, I don’t think any richer is called for. Keep in mind if you target 11.4, you’ll often be running 11.2-11.6.
You are right, active below 150% tps is always ON.
My MTX-L burnt the second sensor in 1000 miles a few days ago, coming up with BS numbers, could potentially blow up my engine with 20% authority at max boost reading full rich
I'm scared switching from 1.4. Maybe I should look into it, but right now I'm very happy how my car is running. Not much time for the car right now, just happy to drive every few weeks
The 2nd and 4th log you posted are dyno pulls, the 3rd one is an aborted pull by 5000rpm, also started logging late at 3600rpm, 1st one looks like it's in 2nd or 3rd gear, not sure why, so I'll ignore those.
First one has a max duty cycle of 102%, other one 107%. So you're either running out of injector or fuel pressure. Usually BP's run out of steam above 6000rpm, but since your VE continues to climb, I would usually suspect your fuel pump. But your AFR also drops from a little above your 11.4 target, going from 11.7 to finally 10.7, so your fuel pump might be fine, you just don't need the fuel.
Your dead times look wrong, most should be at or around 1.0ms, yours is at .7, not sure if that'll make your max DC calculation better or worse.
You're revving the engine to 7500, nothing in your setup would make me rev this past 7000, maybe 7200 if the owner really wanted it.
Boost is seems well controlled at 225kpa, or around 18psi. You never hit the supposed 20psi they were saying, so that's a crumb of good news.
Spool is incredibly slow, you didn't hit that 18psi until 5000rpm, I would expect quite a few hundred RPMs quicker spool.
Looking at your tune there's a dip in VE in the 5500 column, goes from ~134 at 5000 to 131 at 5500, to 136 at 6000. This corresponds to a lean spot in the log, the only place you're over your target, running briefly at 11.7. If they actually wanted 11.4 (as I said earlier, this is a little rich), they could have at least tried to hit 11.4, rather than leaving this obvious "lean" spot.
The full throttle portion of the logs only seems to take 2 seconds, which tells me the operator is in 2nd or 3rd rather than 4th (5-speed), add a gear to those figures if you've got a 6-speed. Not sure why they're doing that. That might explain the slow spool.
I think that's enough issues for tonight. I saw all of the above literally on the default settings Megalog viewer opened with, so there may be more.
I don't think there is a chance for it to be the same tuner, since he is at Isreal and I'm at the midwest of US.
My tuner has been avoiding any responsibility and been really assertive that there is nothing wrong with his tune which he have been using the same ignition map over 6+ years including his own turbo miata and other **** box turbo miata that he had tuned over the years
I don't think there is a chance for it to be the same tuner, since he is at Isreal and I'm at the midwest of US.
My tuner has been avoiding any responsibility and been really assertive that there is nothing wrong with his tune which he have been using the same ignition map over 6+ years including his own turbo miata and other **** box turbo miata that he had tuned over the years
Of course he would say stuff like that. "I have never had the issues you've had, no one I've tuned has had the issues." Who is your tuner? By not telling people who it is they run the risk of their vehicles being damaged if they decide to get tuned by them.
It's pretty clear to me that the tuner is Faeflora.
But seriously: everyone and their mother has suddenly become a master tuner over the past 2 years.
They are Youtube/Instagram/Facebook certified, which is the highest level of certification there is, obviously.
The tuner is Adam from Ohio ECU Solution. Prior to this I have not seen or heard any bad review against them and they have been the general recommended tuner for miata owners around this midwest area for the past 6-7 years. I believe they have another guy up at Detriot Michigan area that they share the same ignition table and basic setting on the tune.
To be fair , he did offer to retune and retard the ignition timing map and said if that makes me feel more comfortable and also will continue to support me but continue to denied any responsibility of the ~$4000 in damages from blowing up 2 engines. The most frustrating/ridiculous part of this situation is my engine blew up twice and he did not even review his tune this whole time and straight up blaming my engine built and mechanical failure. I found this out after asking him to send me the datalogs and he said he might have cut and paste the tune folder to me instead of copy and paste, because he could not find the whole folder that contains the tune and datalog in his laptop.
Crazy to see how someone is that confident he did not make any mistake with this tune and did not review it even after my engine blew up TWICE the same way, yet he can barely keep track or handle a simple copy and paste a folder
Take this just like any other business review, you can decide if they should be blame or not. There is still a chance that it could be mechanical wrong with my car but the chance of it is fairly low since everything in my car that could contribute to the same failure are brand new Mazda or named brand parts.
05-08-2022, 02:58 AM
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