Ok I am definitely running the wrong firmware....

 

You want 3.3.2 or 3.3.3 IIRC, search for DIYPNP miata (your year) documentation in google, should bring it to the top.

 

Ok i got it, turns out I need to use the microsquirt firmware but the batch file options are a bit different than in the documentation. I have 2 options 1 for microsquirt (cased) and 1 for microsquirt module (diypnp). The Documentation says

Microsquirt = black plastic cased ECU.
• Microsquirt module = DIYPNP or other ECUs that use the Microsquirt module.
• MSPNP2 = DIYautotune MSPNP2 only

but both seem to fit my description.... Any idea which would be more right based on the pictures I shared?

 

Also would unplugging the CAS kill power to the coil packs. I tried unplugging them but I cant get the wiring harness to budge....

 

You have a microsquirt module based MS2 DIYPNP. DIYPNP =/= MSPNP2

Why is the CAS unplugged?

 

Its not, I was wondering if it was an alternative to pulling the coil packs because my hands cant get to them...

 

No, it doesn't work like that.

Do you have one of the 110v power supplies, goes in the plug to the right of the printer cable looking things? Unplug everything from the unit and flash it with the wall-wart thing, then plug it all back in.

 

Ah ok the connector to the right of the silver cable, i had no idea that was there

http://www.microcenter.com/product/3...12V_DC_Adapter

That should do the trick right?

 

Yeah, that should do the trick.

 

you are a life saver! I just happened to have 1 in my closet and it worked! I just loaded the 3.3.3 firmware and chose Microsquirt module = DIYPNP or other ECUs that use the Microsquirt module. Do you know where I can find a basemap now? The maps on diyautotune are for older firmware

 

Not a problem!

I still use 3.3.2 so unfortunately I can't help there. If you download the old DIYPNP basemap and open two concurrent tunerstudio programs you ought to be able to line everything up, import and export tables.

 

THE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ONTHE CARS ON THE CARS ON THE CARS ON

I dont think you understand how amazing of a person you are!!!!!!!

 

Hah, I do my best

 

Now I need to see if its still running like crap and stalling out though. But that's for tomorrow

 

Just drove it, making full boost and it has been idling fine. It sucks that my idle issue only happened when it got hot though so it may still be there. You guys are amazing

 

Did you see DNMakinson's thread?

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...it-miss-84668/

 

I just took a look and will try it if the issue happens again. Does it make any sense that ambient temps could have such an impact on the idle? I just drove the car around for 15-20 minutes, let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then started it and it started right up... I called the shop that did the work and he thinks the problem may not be the tune but the fact that under the hot sun the fuel sits in the fuel rails super hot and then when i try to start it again it needs some time to move around and cool off. Could it be possible that there actually isnt any issue in my tune causing this?

 

You mean a lean hot restart condition? Yeah, that's pretty common. There's a lot of factors at play, and I'd rather not explain them all again. Lean hot restart should give you plenty to search on though.

The idle going to pot after the car has been running a while is not normal though.

 

I dont think its a lean start. It really only happens when the car is sitting in the sun in 80+degree weather. Right now I can idle great in all conditions... I dont know what will happen on a hot day though.

 

Your injectors will heat soak. reuardless om ambient and that is whats happening. the best way to fix this is not gamma air correction like many will sugest(new firmware fixes this) but rather by adding more After Start enrichment till it goes away. Basically you want to jet a ton of fuel through your injectors to cool them so when ASE ends the injectors can move into your ve table nicely. By the time your done tuning ASE you will end up with a U shape on the graph. Also do not forget to use ASE Taper to tell the ecu how long to run ASE.