Just for resonance sake, I'll repeat what Curly said. My BP4W swap with an MS3Pro and LS coils had massive issues initially due to my coil wiring. Using the test mode to check each coil individually and in the correct pair sequence to ensure my harness was good was critical as I discovered one of the four wasn't getting the correct firing volts. Test mode is super easy to use and is a zero cost way to make sure you don't trash your new engine. If you are trying to do a first start, I would also verify your timing with a fixed 10* advance just to make sure that your cam/crank sensors are aligned. Very easy to get a dirty signal when you patch in those sensors to 90-93 wiring and a datalog of your ignition events would help to ensure you are getting proper sync'ing of all the appropriate sensors.

After suffering a very expensive loss during this exact part of the process, spending extra time is always worth it and I get it. It can be very very frustrating.

 

As another aside, if your timing is off and you are set to "Use Table" it will be very hard to find your issue until you get your trigger angle set correctly. Even if your sensors are pairing correctly and falling into pattern, even a 2-4* offset may be making it very difficult for your engine to hold correct ignition events. Thats why the fixed advance, 10* with monitoring the ignition log and using a timing light will help your cause.

 

Timing is my issue, tick marks aren't lining up

 

From the data-log, you have massive sync loss on the CAM/CMP sensors. Basically meaning the wiring is noisy or incorrectly done or perhaps your 36-2 wheel is gapped incorrectly. I would verify your sensor loom, gap, and once you get stable sensor inputs with cranking, then set your trigger angle which on your tune is -2.8*

 

Just in case you haven't ever had to use the trigger wizard tool to set your base timing, here's how it do:

Open the trigger wizard tool in TS. Set TS to fixed timing mode, set your base timing value to 10* advanced, and use your timing light to line up the 2 marks on the crank pulley. One lines up with the TDC mark on the timing cover, and the other one lines up with the 10* advanced mark. Once you have your timing marks dialed, burn in the wizard values, and take your timing mode back out of fixed. Done.

 

 

 

Update:

It was the timing belt: she was not anywhere close to being timed correctly. She now startes and idles like the miata i know and love.

still not compleatly out of the woods.

1.) when shes warmed up at temperature she will suddenly stall. I'm guessing sue to the fact I haven't tuned my idle valve yet.

2.) Shes going lean when i crack the throttle. Ive adjusted AE, so would i need to look at at EAE?