N/A 1.6

On cold start, car wants to idle around 70-80kpa, as the car warms up it slowly transitions down to 50-55kpa. If I throw a ton of timing at it, like 20-25 degrees I can get it down to 42-43kpa when hot.

Checked for vacuum leaks, nothing I can find. Thinking rings, but the motor only has about 75k and has lived an easy stock ecu life so I'm kinda doubting they would be going bad already. No weird blue, black, gray smoke on startup. Car sat for about a year prior to putting this megasquirt in last week. Might try going back to stock ecu but thought I would ask here.

Log attached below.

 

I was expecting a MAP sensor configuration issue but if you're around sea level it's probably right. What is your elevation?

Another possibility is a cam timing issue.

You also need to figure out your sync loss problem

EDIT: On second look I realized you must be running a separate sensor for baro so it could still be a MAP sensor configuration issue. What ecu? Attach your tune.

 

Yeah, I'm at about 400ft above sea level.

What exactly is sync loss? I wasn't even aware this was a thing!
Checked timing belt 19 teeth between the marks, as well as confirmed timing via timing light. 10 degrees using fixed angle trigger test mode in TunerStudio.

MSPNP2, I haven't touched any of the MAP or Baro stuff, just using the base map that shipped with my ecu then modified spark and afr tables.

Tune attached below. tysm spartan

EDIT: Just looked up the sync loss reason 39, is that why you are leaning towards as CAS issue? Would flashing the ECU cause 39 to throw? I believe I was doing some idle tuning during this log,

 

Also here is a cold start (notice no sync loss this time). Slightly different spark map in the idle region. but the tune is effectively the same.

 

I didn't say anything about a CAS issue. The sync loss should be easy enough to sort out later.

MAP sensor configuration looks right.

There is more to cam timing than the correct number of teeth between cam marks. The crank has to be positioned correctly as well. Cam timing is really the only thing I can think of. If it were me I would pull enough off that I could confirm the timing mark on the crank gear lines up with the mark on the oil pump. The marks on the balancer can actually shift making that a less reliable method.

 

Sorry cam timing, not sure why I wrote CAS. Will check crank gear, car pulls well anywhere above 2k rpm, would the crank gear alignment be masked above this rpm?

 

High MAP at idle means poor engine efficiency. By far the most common way to get that on a Miata is incorrect cam timing.

 

comp test

 

Figured, will update when it arrives from Amazon.