What the back of the 1.6 head is supposed to look like.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Detail on the heatshield is posted in this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17242
I'm afraid I didn't document the build process of the COP setup. The bracket is a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum stock. I cut the COP holes with a 1" holesaw, and countersunk the three holes on the back (where it bolts to the valve cover) so that the raised posts on the VC extend up into it, allowing the bracket to sit flush on the cover. The COPs mount to countersunk bolts run up from the bottom of the bracket. Two nuts are jammed on the bolt between the COP and the bracket to set the height at which the COP stands.
The bracket:
To interface to the factory wiring, I hacked apart the igniter, wired into its pins, and filled it with eopxy:
Two 4,700 uf capacitors are wired in parallel inside a little plastic box which I zip-tired to the main engine harness. The COP harness passes through this box:
The CAS hole is filled with the plug that all the NBs came with to fill this hole. I got mine from a local dude who installed an NA CAS on his NB.
I'm afraid I didn't document the build process of the COP setup. The bracket is a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum stock. I cut the COP holes with a 1" holesaw, and countersunk the three holes on the back (where it bolts to the valve cover) so that the raised posts on the VC extend up into it, allowing the bracket to sit flush on the cover. The COPs mount to countersunk bolts run up from the bottom of the bracket. Two nuts are jammed on the bolt between the COP and the bracket to set the height at which the COP stands.
The bracket:
To interface to the factory wiring, I hacked apart the igniter, wired into its pins, and filled it with eopxy:
Two 4,700 uf capacitors are wired in parallel inside a little plastic box which I zip-tired to the main engine harness. The COP harness passes through this box:
The CAS hole is filled with the plug that all the NBs came with to fill this hole. I got mine from a local dude who installed an NA CAS on his NB.
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More info on removing the cas please.
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That's really clean looking Joe. I still want to try Mikeflys technique of grinding off the two teeth on the crank wheel and using the stock NB sensors instead of the CAS. Glad I save my block off plate pieces to replace the CAS with.
He installed a 36-1 trigger wheel on his crank. Unless you want to have an adapter machined you're not going to be able to replicate it.
Keep your CAS if it works, his didn't so he upgraded.
He installed a 36-1 trigger wheel on his crank. Unless you want to have an adapter machined you're not going to be able to replicate it.
Keep your CAS if it works, his didn't so he upgraded.
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ahh, I see. Thanks CJ
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Instructions for removing CAS:
1- Unscrew CAS lock bolt.
2- Firmly grasp CAS and pull it out.
Simple enough?
Seriously, here's the writeup on what I did: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20241
CJ is correct in that my primary motivation for doing this was that I'd been having all kinds of trouble reliably triggering off my stock (and apparently faulty) CAS. I went through several circuits, some of which worked better than others, but none were perfect. So I decided a 36-1 wheel would be an interesting project to undertake.
When I first heard about mikeflys1's 4-1 attempt I was impressed. I didn't think it was possible owing to the timing constraints, but I figured I was wrong.
The reason it didn't work is that MS1 requires all teeth (except the missing tooth) to be evenly spaced. The teeth on the stock wheel are oddly spaced, and MS will tend to interpret the longer spaces as missing teeth.
I question whether even machining off two teeth will work for NB owners, since the crank sensor gives a very odd single-double output and I question whether MS1 can be made to interpret it. You might need to grind down the cam as well. I do have an idea however.
I don't know if it's mechanically possible, but if you can realign the crank sensor closer to the wheel it should work. Basically, move the sensor in so that it's almost touching the wheel itself. Cut off all four teeth. In their place, cut three gaps into the wheel: one at -60°, one at +30°, and one at +120°. The space you don't cut at +210° will be the logical missing tooth. In this configuration, the system should run as a 4-1. Set Trig A = 1, Trig B = 3, and no returns. Leave cranking at time-based. You may have to invert the sensor output.
And as for the capacitors, it's very simple. I had several 4,700uf capacitors lying around, but no 10,000uf caps.
1- Unscrew CAS lock bolt.
2- Firmly grasp CAS and pull it out.
Simple enough?
Seriously, here's the writeup on what I did: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=20241
CJ is correct in that my primary motivation for doing this was that I'd been having all kinds of trouble reliably triggering off my stock (and apparently faulty) CAS. I went through several circuits, some of which worked better than others, but none were perfect. So I decided a 36-1 wheel would be an interesting project to undertake.
When I first heard about mikeflys1's 4-1 attempt I was impressed. I didn't think it was possible owing to the timing constraints, but I figured I was wrong.
The reason it didn't work is that MS1 requires all teeth (except the missing tooth) to be evenly spaced. The teeth on the stock wheel are oddly spaced, and MS will tend to interpret the longer spaces as missing teeth.
I question whether even machining off two teeth will work for NB owners, since the crank sensor gives a very odd single-double output and I question whether MS1 can be made to interpret it. You might need to grind down the cam as well. I do have an idea however.
I don't know if it's mechanically possible, but if you can realign the crank sensor closer to the wheel it should work. Basically, move the sensor in so that it's almost touching the wheel itself. Cut off all four teeth. In their place, cut three gaps into the wheel: one at -60°, one at +30°, and one at +120°. The space you don't cut at +210° will be the logical missing tooth. In this configuration, the system should run as a 4-1. Set Trig A = 1, Trig B = 3, and no returns. Leave cranking at time-based. You may have to invert the sensor output.
And as for the capacitors, it's very simple. I had several 4,700uf capacitors lying around, but no 10,000uf caps.
Originally Posted by StankCheeze
Joe, you've gotta be one of the most respected guys on this forum, and for good reason.
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When I first heard about mikeflys1's 4-1 attempt I was impressed. I didn't think it was possible owing to the timing constraints, but I figured I was wrong.
The reason it didn't work is that MS1 requires all teeth (except the missing tooth) to be evenly spaced. The teeth on the stock wheel are oddly spaced, and MS will tend to interpret the longer spaces as missing teeth.
I question whether even machining off two teeth will work for NB owners, since the crank sensor gives a very odd single-double output and I question whether MS1 can be made to interpret it. You might need to grind down the cam as well. I do have an idea however.
The reason it didn't work is that MS1 requires all teeth (except the missing tooth) to be evenly spaced. The teeth on the stock wheel are oddly spaced, and MS will tend to interpret the longer spaces as missing teeth.
I question whether even machining off two teeth will work for NB owners, since the crank sensor gives a very odd single-double output and I question whether MS1 can be made to interpret it. You might need to grind down the cam as well. I do have an idea however.
I've put like 150 miles on it over the weekend including a couple trips to redline without so much as a hiccup.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Genius!
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Im leaving to Tennessee for a while, you Abe and I should get together for drinks before I leave.
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 269
Total Cats: 92
From: 11368 miles from where i would like to be
Are you not concerned about overheating the coils running them in wasted mode like that constantly? Coulda/shoulda kept the CAS for the No 1 TDC signal and made it proper COP instead. As a bonus you would draw half as much juice powering them :-)
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
I'm moving to North Carolina in six weeks. The Smog Polizei can go fist sheep for all I care.
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