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-   -   Who do I throw my money at to test a dead MS3X? (https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/who-do-i-throw-my-money-test-dead-ms3x-94637/)

ungluedflyer 06-23-2018 08:00 PM

If I'm understanding correctly I'm basically trying to accomplish "if 4S= 12V then 3H= ground" but how do I configure that?

Braineack 06-24-2018 08:14 AM

03+ miatas power the car unlike every miata before its time. The ECU provides a ground to the main relay when the ECU is powered, thus activating the main relay.

Your MS3X must do the same.

You have two options:
1. move the INJ E wire that's used for your CEL light to 3H and change the programmable outputs for INJE to always be on when the ECU is powered.
2. populate an LED circuit on the mainboard, send that output to one of the spare 1-2-3-4 holes on the mainboard to 3H, and change the programmable outputs for that LED to always be on when the ECU is powered.

simply enabling the output with "power on value" to ON, should do the trick. But since you have to use an active condition, you must also set that to ON. then the parameters shouldn't matter.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d8a138143.png

ungluedflyer 06-24-2018 01:02 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488050)
03+ miatas power the car unlike every miata before its time. The ECU provides a ground to the main relay when the ECU is powered, thus activating the main relay.

Your MS3X must do the same.

You have two options:
1. move the INJ E wire that's used for your CEL light to 3H and change the programmable outputs for INJE to always be on when the ECU is powered.
2. populate an LED circuit on the mainboard, send that output to one of the spare 1-2-3-4 holes on the mainboard to 3H, and change the programmable outputs for that LED to always be on when the ECU is powered.

simply enabling the output with "power on value" to ON, should do the trick. But since you have to use an active condition, you must also set that to ON. then the parameters shouldn't matter.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d8a138143.png

Great explanation, thanks. Populating the LED circuit sounds like the lesser of two evils since I'd like to be able to have my CEL programmable if something is wrong. You mentioned if I was running the knock module (This one right? https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...ck-module-kit/) I couldn't do that. I was planning on potentially getting it in the future, what was the other option you mentioned?

Braineack 06-24-2018 01:44 PM

you can build this in your protoarea:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...elayOutput.JPG

I would use Js2 to the 1K (should equate to IAC2 on the above screen). then SPARE 1 to 3H. you can recycle one of the transistors that would have been used for the LEDs or Q2/Q4. (the higher amperage one here is probably the best).

ungluedflyer 06-25-2018 02:20 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488089)
you can build this in your protoarea:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...elayOutput.JPG

I would use Js2 to the 1K (should equate to IAC2 on the above screen). then SPARE 1 to 3H. you can recycle one of the transistors that would have been used for the LEDs or Q2/Q4. (the higher amperage one here is probably the best).

Just to summarize what I've done before I plug it in:

Using the above schematic I've made these connections-

JS2 -> 1K resistor input
SPR1 (SPARE 1) -> 3H (MS-3)
+12V -> 4H (MS-28)
Ground -> Proto Ground

Under Programmable On/Off Outputs:
Use IAC2 (port PJ0 in TS)

Port Settings:
Check “Enabled”
Set “Power On Value” and “Active Value” to On

Active Conditions:
Settings don’t matter.

For the record the components I used were:
1x 100V 3W diode (didn't have any in 1W)
1x LED transistor (Q6/7/8)
1x 1K resistor

Everything sound good enough to not blow things up? :x:

Braineack 06-25-2018 09:02 AM

yes, but how did you wire the 12v? did you actually go out to the harness for it? otherwise, the main relay is already connected to 12v...

to elaborate: you're not wiring up 12v, you're just sending your flyback diode to 12v. we typically use s19 for that (same spot you use for the flyback mod on the expander)


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ed90c6fb15.png

ungluedflyer 06-25-2018 01:38 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488214)
yes, but how did you wire the 12v? did you actually go out to the harness for it? otherwise, the main relay is already connected to 12v...

to elaborate: you're not wiring up 12v, you're just sending your flyback diode to 12v. we typically use s19 for that (same spot you use for the flyback mod on the expander)


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ed90c6fb15.png

By S19 did you mean S12 like in this thread? https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...-12v-u5-89434/

Yes I went to the harness for +12V by running a wire from the banded end of my diode to (MS-12/ 4H) but I'll change that to go to "S19" depending on your answer.

Braineack 06-25-2018 01:54 PM

s12 is a better place to stick the diode. it's behind protections of it's own and not raw 12v.

ungluedflyer 06-25-2018 02:03 PM


Originally Posted by ungluedflyer (Post 1488194)
Just to summarize what I've done before I plug it in:

Using the above schematic I've made these connections-

JS2 -> 1K resistor input
SPR1 (SPARE 1) -> 3H (MS-3)
+12V -> 4H (MS-28)
Ground -> Proto Ground

Under Programmable On/Off Outputs:
Use IAC2 (port PJ0 in TS)

Port Settings:
Check “Enabled”
Set “Power On Value” and “Active Value” to On

Active Conditions:
Settings don’t matter.

For the record the components I used were:
1x 100V 3W diode (didn't have any in 1W)
1x LED transistor (Q6/7/8)
1x 1K resistor

Everything sound good enough to not blow things up? :x:

So for documentation purposes: Use the above info but run the banded end of the diode to S12 for "+12V" NOT to 4H(MS-3). Brian can confirm?

ungluedflyer 06-25-2018 02:07 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488249)
s12 is a better place to stick the diode. it's behind protections of it's own and not raw 12v.

If I want to mention someone in a thread do I just quote them? How does one summon somebody? Getting good use out of my :noob: status on my profile.

Braineack 06-25-2018 05:20 PM


Originally Posted by ungluedflyer (Post 1488251)
So for documentation purposes: Use the above info but run the banded end of the diode to S12 for "+12V" NOT to 4H(MS-3). Brian can confirm?

the non-banded side will go to MS-3 technically.

ungluedflyer 06-26-2018 09:14 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488281)
the non-banded side will go to MS-3 technically.

I was a quitter and decided to just use my CEL instead. Works like a charm. Finally getting this thing to run is amazing. Thank all of you who have helped me get this far. Something I'm stumbling on is I'm not getting any manifold pressure reading in TS. Technically it's reading something but it's just showing 100kpa (atmosphere) I understand our cars have a MAF and not a MAP, but what actually tells the MS3X my manifold pressure? I saw people mention having a GM IAT has something to do with not needing a MAP, (which I have installed) but my VE tables only move horizontally even though my manifold pressure is under vacuum.
​​​​

SpartanSV 06-26-2018 11:16 PM


Originally Posted by ungluedflyer (Post 1488520)
Technically it's reading something but it's just showing 100kpa (atmosphere) I understand our cars have a MAF and not a MAP, but what actually tells the MS3X my manifold pressure?
​​​​

MAP sensor is built in to the MS3X. You need to connect a vacuum line to it.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6e358a854.jpg

Braineack 06-27-2018 08:21 AM

those bent pins! how even?

ungluedflyer 06-27-2018 10:34 AM


Originally Posted by SpartanSV (Post 1488529)
MAP sensor is built in to the MS3X. You need to connect a vacuum line to it.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a6e358a854.jpg

So it does use the built in one. Just noticed the trubokitty guide says "The DB37 connector must be installed before the MAP sensor, so I like to get them out of the way." but it never inherently says to ever install it after that. I missed that part since it was like the first build step. Also: RIP DB37 20xx-2018 :eek4:

Braineack 06-27-2018 10:47 AM

the MAP sensor covers the pins of the DB37, so there's an order of operations for assembly here.

SpartanSV 06-27-2018 11:23 AM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488568)
those bent pins! how even?

I wondered the same thing. Was simply the clearest pic of the MAP sensor I could find in 20 seconds of google image search.

ungluedflyer 06-30-2018 01:57 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1488050)
03+ miatas power the car unlike every miata before its time. The ECU provides a ground to the main relay when the ECU is powered, thus activating the main relay.

Your MS3X must do the same.

You have two options:
1. move the INJ E wire that's used for your CEL light to 3H and change the programmable outputs for INJE to always be on when the ECU is powered.
2. populate an LED circuit on the mainboard, send that output to one of the spare 1-2-3-4 holes on the mainboard to 3H, and change the programmable outputs for that LED to always be on when the ECU is powered.

simply enabling the output with "power on value" to ON, should do the trick. But since you have to use an active condition, you must also set that to ON. then the parameters shouldn't matter.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8d8a138143.png

So while this DOES work, while cranking my main relay seems to flicker on and off until it sputters to life. Once it's on it's solid, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with my 12V source? It sounds like that one dude trying to start a 76' Chevy Vega running on purely faith :hs:

Braineack 06-30-2018 02:25 PM

doesnt make sense.

ungluedflyer 06-30-2018 05:58 PM


Originally Posted by Braineack (Post 1489159)
doesnt make sense.



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