Ignoring the relay thing (since once it's going it runs), I can't rev past 4k. I've checked all my limiters but don't see what's holding it back. Once it's revving freely I can start tuning. All of my logs and tune are attached.

you dont think the poor RPM sync has anything to do with it? (both cranking and the 4k issue)

It's possible, I took composite logs in my last post and they didn't seem to indicate any sync errors while revving (just when cranking). I guess the best method of testing is to bypass the ground for the main relay outside of the MS3X and see if it still clicks on and off.

log it cutting out at 4K and change your tune. (no pun intended)

That's what the high speed logs are. Basically just me starting it warm and revving it. I know it's pig rich but it just falls on it's face. I've pulled fuel and even used autotune. Nothing has changed.

Correction: ALL of those logs in the zip are of it cutting out at 4k. The normal log is a quick drive down the block and back rowing through gears and the high speed logs are me revving it to 4k parked.

Well I tried this and it didn't change anything. The relays I hear clicking on and off are in the cabin, not the main relay. I fiddled around with my main trim pot (r56) and ruled that out. What would cause this? Crank sensor has been re-adjusted already. What's confusing is it only does it while cranking. Once it randomly clicks on long enough to get a few sputters it runs and idles smooth.

I've done that. I uploaded a zip file with everything in it right here ⤵

Does anyone see anything obvious that would cause this sputtering-start and 4k rev limit in my logs?

is there loss sync when i happens (i cant view the files here)?

Yes. On top of that the car didn't start at all today. I had to swap over to the stock ECU to get to work. Here's what it was doing when cranking (before it quit starting):

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d385b32081.png


Closer view:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...03220e4b87.png

Like I said, adjusting my trim pots doesn't seem to help any, so I defaulted back to 12 turns counterclockwise and 7.5 turns clockwise. I'll take more logs later today with the no-start issue.

that cam signal looks odd.

this is an NB? can should be a single, then double.


you're getting loss sync where the cam turns into a bunch of a 3 edges.


did you tune the two pots on the exapnder board itself? that's cam. back them both out CCW at least 6 turns. only rotate r11 back CW 3.5.



https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...385581ab00.png


when you cure the sync loss, youll cure both the startup issue and the 4k drop out.

This is a 2003 NB2. As per your guide, I followed this: "Turn both R11 & R32 (6) turns to the fully counterclockwise. Turn R11 back 3½ turns clockwise. Do not turn R32 clockwise." Trim pots are dialed. How likely is it my CAS is failing?

post a screen of your trigger settings

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d8e1644b60.png
It's the base tune on your trubokitty page.

flip the cam from inverted to normal and see how it reacts.

"Fantastically" was how it reacted. Thank you. Starts up reliably and quickly now. Still having the 4k cutout though. Something I noticed was the tach just completely dies when it happens and then comes back once I'm lower than 4k. I'm hitting around 9-8 afr when it happens, but wouldn't autotune try to pull fuel if that were the issue? The tach dying tells me something isn't syncing and my RPM signal is dropping.

Here's my new log of it starting fine now: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...19bc2390a4.png
Now I'm on the hunt for what's dropping at 4k. It's hard to tell but I'm guessing my sync log should show me something? Should I be taking a composite log at 4k?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b166746404.png

turn r11 another 1/2 turn.

Tried this, I'm assuming you mean another 1/2 turn CW to make it 4 turns in total (instead of 3.5). Car wouldn't start at all after that.

I updated the firmware to 1.5.1 just to see if it'd make a difference, but it didn't. Here's what it's doing:

If you notice during the sync loss there's a(/ a few?) relay/s clicking when it happens under the dash. Watch the TPS, when my foot is off the gas It takes a while to idle back down afterwards too.

you hear the fuel pump relay clicking, cause it turns off when there's no RPMs.


do a composite log and capture the 4K dropout, see what sensor is actually cutting out (cam or crank) adjust r52 or r11 accordingly.