MEGAsquirt A place to collectively sort out this megasquirt gizmo

Wiring Hurts the Brain (LS coils/ID1050 Injectors/Engine Wire harness)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-02-2017, 01:50 AM
  #1  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
matrussell122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,859
Total Cats: 516
Default Wiring Hurts the Brain (LS coils/ID1050 Injectors/Engine Wire harness)

Been searching around tonight with the intent of building a small harness for the injectors and coils. Found the USCAR connectors for the injectors but where is some info on the ls coil wiring? That led me down the rabbit hole why not just do a whole engine harness with a bulkhead connector for both motors for easy swaps. Can anyone point me to a pinout or wire diagram for just the engine and point me in the direction of the proper plugs. The current motor is a 1.6 (boring 230hp) the motor the harness will be for is a 95 block with 02 VVT head. Probably wont run the IAC and going to run a mustang throttle body if that matters.

Wiring makes my brain hurt
matrussell122 is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 10:02 AM
  #2  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Akina_Downhill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thessaloniki
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 14
Default

What's important is the car's MY assuming you have kept stock harness.
Is it a 1990 na?
For the injectors, are you running Sequential?(i hope you are)
You'll need a constant 12V for them (white/red wire) and 2/4 wires from MS3 injector outputs.
For the coils, the wires you want are :
Brown/Yellow-1/4 Trigger
Brown- 2/3 Trigger
Blue- +12V
Black- GND
Yellow Blue+Black/white- Tach

You can find these plugged to your ignitor.
LS2 Coils Pin out:
A - Coil Primary Ground
B - Ignition low noise ground from ECU (ground)
C - Ignition digital signal from ECU (+5V)
D - +12V Supply to Coil Primary


So you could ground B to black wire, ground A to cylinder head, C to Brown/yellow+Brown for 1/4, 2/3 respectively and D to blue wire.
Or you could ground all the pins to cylinder head.
You will also want to connect the tach signal to your ECU appropriate pin.
1990 Wiring:
Akina_Downhill is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 12:38 PM
  #3  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,224
Total Cats: 1,146
Default

Correction, injectors should be yellow and yellow/black.

You'll want to run two extra wires, most recently I wired a Hydra to FM's adapter harness, which requires cutting the yellow/black wire going to inj 4 and the yellow wire going to inj 3 and connecting them to the final 2 injector outputs on the hydra. I forget if MS requires different cylinders.

Remember MS, Hydra, and most every stock ecu only controls the GROUND side of a circuit. Therefore, things like IAC, VVT, injectors, coils, VICS solenoids, etc, all need to be constantly powered. Generally by the white/red wire that runs everywhere in a Miata engine bay and is controlled by the main relay.

Some sensors, like the TPS, MAP sensors, oil pressure, and others have a ground and 5v reference pin, then the senor itself outputs to a 3rd pin, changing from 0V to 5V according to where, in the TPS at least, it is positioned. So be careful, these circuits shouldn't get the white/red 12v wire.

Other sensors, namely the CKP and CMP (CranK Position and CaM Position) have three pins as well, but are 12v sensors. So the white/red 12v wire again, ground, and then they output a signal any time they sense the trigger wheel on the cam or crank passes by.

The last type of sensor I can think of is temperature, such as air, coolant, and oil. These are either grounded through their body and have one pin, or have 2 pins, including a ground. The 2nd pin or single pin will give a resistance according to what temperature it's at. Most ECUs require this resistance to be "translated" into a 0-5v signal. They do this with a pull-up resistor to 5 volts. So you apply 5 volts through a resistor to that resistance signal wire, pulling it up to 0-5v, changing as the resistance changes.

I think that pretty much covers everything, with this basic info you can wire the entire engine pretty easily.

TL;DR-just apply power and ground to everything.
curly is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 01:02 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Akina_Downhill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thessaloniki
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 14
Default

Injectors are indeed yellow and yellow black as seen on the diagram, and the acc +12v is white/red.
I didn't mention injector wire color codes though, i'm not following what is being corrected.
Very nice simple explanation of the various wiring concepts/sensors and how they operate
Akina_Downhill is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:00 PM
  #5  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
matrussell122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,859
Total Cats: 516
Default

Originally Posted by Akina_Downhill
Injectors are indeed yellow and yellow black as seen on the diagram, and the acc +12v is white/red.
I didn't mention injector wire color codes though, i'm not following what is being corrected.
Very nice simple explanation of the various wiring concepts/sensors and how they operate
The dilemma is that currently im running a stock 1.6 harness and going to a 1.8 vvt setup and would like to have a separate harness on the engine for both motors to do quick swaps if necessary. Then on the car side of things run a single bulkhead connector on the firewall.

And thanks for the replies thats exactly what i was looking for. Does anyone know where i can get engine connectors
matrussell122 is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:36 PM
  #6  
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Akina_Downhill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Thessaloniki
Posts: 108
Total Cats: 14
Default

Well, I don't see why you would want to go back to 1.6L ever again, but if you want it so badly, you could make 2 harnesses using a buckle connector.
Swapping in vvt motor with ms3 is a breeze(wiring-wise), you just have to make simple modifications(wiring up coils, cam and crank sensor, vvt, injector sequential wiring,vtps wiring if you didn't have already)
Akina_Downhill is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:38 PM
  #7  
SadFab CEO
iTrader: (3)
 
hi_im_sean's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,142
Default

paging albert

@afm
hi_im_sean is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 02:47 PM
  #8  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,224
Total Cats: 1,146
Default

Originally Posted by Akina_Downhill
i'm not following what is being corrected.
Sorry, missed the part where you were talking about ignition not injection.

Originally Posted by matrussell122
The dilemma is that currently im running a stock 1.6 harness and going to a 1.8 vvt setup and would like to have a separate harness on the engine for both motors to do quick swaps if necessary. Then on the car side of things run a single bulkhead connector on the firewall.
Does anyone know where i can get engine connectors
Most of the critical pigtails can be bought from TSE:

Miata Wiring Pigtails

I really don't understand why you'd be swapping engines frequently enough to justifiy a new harness. I'd probably be cheaper to buy a sub 100k VVT motor as back up. They go for like ~$800, and a few of those circular mil-spec connectors, pins, and crimping tools will run you about $500, which doesn't include any time put into assembling it all.
curly is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 04:02 PM
  #9  
Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
matrussell122's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,859
Total Cats: 516
Default

Originally Posted by curly
Sorry, missed the part where you were talking about ignition not injection.



Most of the critical pigtails can be bought from TSE:

Miata Wiring Pigtails

I really don't understand why you'd be swapping engines frequently enough to justifiy a new harness. I'd probably be cheaper to buy a sub 100k VVT motor as back up. They go for like ~$800, and a few of those circular mil-spec connectors, pins, and crimping tools will run you about $500, which doesn't include any time put into assembling it all.
Awesome thank you for the link. As much as im on their site ive never seen the pigtails. And in all actuality the 1.6 will probably never go back in. i guess its just me wanting to have a super clean engine harness and engine bay instead of the factory harness that looks jumbles together.

As far as tools and other connecters i have a bunch of deutsch connectors and tools already
matrussell122 is offline  
Old 09-02-2017, 05:00 PM
  #10  
afm
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 981
Total Cats: 508
Default

Here's a spreadsheet of connector part numbers -- look under the row for "LS coils," which has the part numbers for the appropriate 4F, index-keyed GT-150 3.5mm centerline plug and terminals for LS coils.

Note that there are multiple flavors of USCAR injector connectors. This spreadsheet lists parts for a Delphi variant, which uses GT-150 3.5mm centerline (not to be confused with regular GT-150) terminals. You may have a Ford variant, which would use different terminals.

The terminal / wire seal selections are based on the type of wire I used (18ga M22759/16 or /32). If you use 18ga TXL wire, it will use the same yellow GT-150 3.5mm centerline seals and the same terminals for the coils.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...n8X4-7/pubhtmll
afm is offline  




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:20 PM.