I need to eliminate 3 things before ripping into the motor.

1. My pcv system. Right now I have to -4 bungs welded into the Valve cover. Lines go to a catch can with a little filter on it. No vacuum going to the catch can. Could this be an issue?

2. Turbo. Bought it brand new, gt2554rs. No restrictor. Drain line is super short, no kinks. No obvious leaks. No oil in hot side. Again no oil burning at full throttle.

3. Something in the head. Valve guides or seals? Again no oil on cold start.

Another video of the smoking.

http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/a...v/e6082b55.mp4

So does anybody think that this could in anyway be related to the PCV system?

Here.. read this
Link is to another fourm, but should help you verify that your catch can and PVC is hooked up properly

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/arti...cv-system.html

Hook your catch can up like this...

Attachment 46283

Pull the head and have someone that knows what they are doing look at it. I would imagine a knowledgeable person would be able to tell very quickly if it were valve seals. This costs time, and very little money.

If head checks out, then I would rotate the crank and take very detailed video/pictures of the cylinder bores. Then post them up on the forum.

You can see the seals from the top with just the cam cover off. They look fine and all te springs are there.

I will try to get a a bore scope first.

-4an lines for catch can? Little small, no? Filter is clean?

-4an return line for the turbo drain? Little small, no?

Still no oil restrictor? It's about $12, try it. If -4an is your return line this couldn't hurt.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...Category_Code=

I hope the -4an is either a typo or I read wrong.

-8 drain -4 for or -6 can't remember for sure for the valve cover to catch can.

What filter you talking about? No restrictor because corky said they never use a restrictor on 2554.

Catch can is vent to atmo right? Or plummed to pre turbo intake hose ie on vacuum? If vent to atmo the filter is clean and you can blow through it easily. I'm by no means an expert. Hopefully someone can correct me. -4an line to a catch can is way too small. -6an might be. It seems most the ones I see installed are -8 or -10. If the catch can is plummed to vac is the can full? If so empty it. That would more than likely be the source of oil in the intercooler. Fillin up a small catch can on a motor breaking in wouldn't freak me out. Filling a large one might. Size of can or amount of fluid it can hold before It pukes oil out? I thought the standard oil drain size was -10, maybe for a smaller turbo I'm wrong. What do the plugs look like? If they aren't oily or black yet with all this oil the motor is burning it would be my first guess. Only thing after that is exhaust stem seals and turbo. Just my 2cents, but still think a restrictor couldn't hurt, if nothing else it's a cheap way to eliminate a probability. Just throwing ideas out.

Wait, what?
So you take Corky's word for it instead of checking with the folks who actually made the turbo?

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...il_water_lines

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/faq

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...water_plumbing

I've run an oil feed restrictor on every single one of the turbos I've ever run on every car, with varying sizes depending on needs. Don't know what makes the 2554 special, but I have a feeling that its not.

Because he makes the kit I run on my car and he has been racing miatas for years with this turbo and never had an issue with running 2554 without restrictors.

Oh I see. So he must know more than the folks that made the turbo. Ok, carry on.

If it was an issue with restrictor or turbo in general the back side of the turbo would be at least somewhat wet. And it would smoke under acceleration when oil pressure is high or when the car is cold and oil pressure is very high. Both don't happen.

This is a Mazda BP 1.8 right?

And you can inspect the seals fully with just the valve cover off?

So you are saying you can see past the cams, the buckets, the bucket boss of the casting, past the retainer and thu the sping gaps??

Ok......

lol he has no clue

It says right in the title that it's a 1.6l and yes you can see clave stem seals right through the valve springs.

Yes I will agree that you can see bits and pieces of the valve stem seals... but there is no way you will be able to tell if there is a small rip on top, or if one is a bit crooked and not sealing agaist the stem well...

Best of luck with getting this fixed.........

Is there any way to test steam seals without pulling everything apart?

Yes. Its outlined in the same manual as the one about rebuilding a broken engine without taking it apart. Look it up. Its in a book called "holycrapareyoureallythisretarded"

I'm glad soviet is on this board, he equals out the massive fail. Otherwise I'd pretend I wasn't Russian too.

Have you even looked at the links, or bothered to look at the attached pic on how to PROPERLY hook up a catch can that I posted for you?

Lets do one thing at a time, and check the things off your list.

and NO there is no way to check the valve stem seals with out removing most of the valve train.

Personaly I wouls like to see you with a 10 or 12 AN drain line....

Since you are fighting tooth and nail from opening up the engine back up.. Lets try a few other things before that then.

***1 read links on catch can, and hook up your can that way.

***2 install a larger drain line on turbo

If smoke on decell is still there after these 2 things.....

***3 install an oil restrictor in turbo feed line.

still smoke?? yes??

***4 Pull head off and apart and change the valve stem seals..at this point we can look at a few other things too.


Who is this Corky guy?