BRP M45 Coldside Manifold
#1
BRP M45 Coldside Manifold
If you have an M45 and are looking for throttle response... THIS IS the manifold to have. I'm running 10+psi- and it's an absolute blast. I will include my custom pulley set up (the original was a POS) My custom one has been on the car with the same belt for 30K miles- it has a VW style adjuster, uses one less idler pulley then the BRP one.
This is a 4Rib Belt set up.
I'm asking $350 for the manifold (+ shipping)- BRP M45 Coldside Manifold --
Includes: Manifold
MAF relocation mount and (the 3" vacuum Cleaner hose thing)
Custom Pulley set up ( 1/4" plate AL w/ VW pulley)
Misc TB Bracket/ adaptor
Original BRP install instructions
I may have an extra belt (IF -I do I'll throw it in)
After 50K miles my SC is dead- and I don't plan on rebuilding my SC every two years- so another Turbo set up is in motion...
P.S. The dandruff looking stuff on the belt is SNOW... This is still on the car- I will be removing after the holidays...
This is a 4Rib Belt set up.
I'm asking $350 for the manifold (+ shipping)- BRP M45 Coldside Manifold --
Includes: Manifold
MAF relocation mount and (the 3" vacuum Cleaner hose thing)
Custom Pulley set up ( 1/4" plate AL w/ VW pulley)
Misc TB Bracket/ adaptor
Original BRP install instructions
I may have an extra belt (IF -I do I'll throw it in)
After 50K miles my SC is dead- and I don't plan on rebuilding my SC every two years- so another Turbo set up is in motion...
P.S. The dandruff looking stuff on the belt is SNOW... This is still on the car- I will be removing after the holidays...
#5
For those BRP history Buffs--I bought the car with the M45 already installed--The car was originally from CT- this kit was installed by "BADBOB"- And turns out one of the very first by BRP-- And the car is now running Bob's old Link ECU.
#7
what happens to the alternator?
where is the S/C outlet [for plumbing to an existing A/W IC, located in the crossover pipe from the hotside to the dummy throttle body]?
does it use the old alternator drive pulley on the crank?
does your car have either PS or A/C?
where is the S/C outlet [for plumbing to an existing A/W IC, located in the crossover pipe from the hotside to the dummy throttle body]?
does it use the old alternator drive pulley on the crank?
does your car have either PS or A/C?
#8
Chiefmg
This manifold will not work on a NB. The heads are different.
MX594m
1 The alternator stays where it already is
2 You will not use or need the A/W IC for this set up. That is the beuaty of the coldside. The outlet of the S/C goes directly into an intake plenum.
3 Yes
4 It does not matter with the cold side as it uses the Alt water pump belt rather than the PS AC Belt.
This is a HELL of a deal.
If it doesn't sale in a couple week I might pick it up and pair it with a fresh M45 I have on the workbench to make a complete kit and try to re-sell it that way.
This manifold will not work on a NB. The heads are different.
MX594m
1 The alternator stays where it already is
2 You will not use or need the A/W IC for this set up. That is the beuaty of the coldside. The outlet of the S/C goes directly into an intake plenum.
3 Yes
4 It does not matter with the cold side as it uses the Alt water pump belt rather than the PS AC Belt.
This is a HELL of a deal.
If it doesn't sale in a couple week I might pick it up and pair it with a fresh M45 I have on the workbench to make a complete kit and try to re-sell it that way.
#9
Gahh, I want this so bad! I wish I had cash, I just had to dump money in my water pump/timing belt change.
Hopefully it still will be around later
Hopefully it still will be around later
#10
with an M-45 the temperature of the air being compressed is raised [nominal 18 degrees F per pound of boost], how is that mitigated? I can think of only three choices, cool the air, add extra fuel, retard advance, or [a fourth, drop cylinder compression]
#13
This is on my DD (including snow ). My car is a 1994 it has PS, AC, ABS and a five trumpet Dixie horn. It doesn't matter--- PS and AC remains in stock location.
Ideally on a car without ABS you could reroute the intake along the rightside (pass) as well. (and take the air from a turnsignal intake) (With ABS you can go under the manifold- but then need to place the air cleaner in some really dirty locations. For additional cooling WI would be the way to go. There is plenty of area on the underside to tap into the manifold.
IIRC I posted my MS timing map around here few years back -it was very close to the intercooled turbo's. (I don't have that laptop anymore with the maps)
#15
^^^ If he isn't I have one that has been extensively worked over by the High Speed Lab. Would make one hell of a kit along with what the OP is selling.
#16
Please let me know if you still have this for sale, and I have the following questions:
Will it fit the 1.6?
What else is needed other than the M45 supercharger?
Will this work with the stock fuel setup?
Thanks!
Mark
Will it fit the 1.6?
What else is needed other than the M45 supercharger?
Will this work with the stock fuel setup?
Thanks!
Mark
#18
If you run it at low boost like 6 psi will it require anything other than fpr?
#19
Please PM me back im thinking i might go ahead and get this. do you still have the actual supercharger that would need a rebuild?
#20
Sorry I haven't been around--
Been busy at work...
Here's a pic-- as you can see it's uninstalled and ready to ship not shown is the 3" vac hose for the air intake I forgot to include it in the pic...
"I think" to get this installed all you will need is...
Cone Air filter
An 1/8 npt fittings for YOUR vac/boost gauge (most gauge kits come with)
A couple of feet of 1/8" vac lines
There is a hobb pressure switch on the manifold I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT'S FOR (I use a link ECU) - so it just fills the hole--lol...
You'll re-use a few things like the MAF mounting bolts, and one of the Alternator bracket mounting bolt (the 14mm that goes into the engine block)
Blue RTV
OH yeah a better working SC
The manifold is a two piece design (you'll need some RTV to seal it)- I found it easiest to remove the starter/Oil pressure sender/Alternator before trying to fit it in. It's not difficult to install - just time consuming.
For the price of shipping you can have the SC...
Been busy at work...
Here's a pic-- as you can see it's uninstalled and ready to ship not shown is the 3" vac hose for the air intake I forgot to include it in the pic...
"I think" to get this installed all you will need is...
Cone Air filter
An 1/8 npt fittings for YOUR vac/boost gauge (most gauge kits come with)
A couple of feet of 1/8" vac lines
There is a hobb pressure switch on the manifold I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT IT'S FOR (I use a link ECU) - so it just fills the hole--lol...
You'll re-use a few things like the MAF mounting bolts, and one of the Alternator bracket mounting bolt (the 14mm that goes into the engine block)
Blue RTV
OH yeah a better working SC
The manifold is a two piece design (you'll need some RTV to seal it)- I found it easiest to remove the starter/Oil pressure sender/Alternator before trying to fit it in. It's not difficult to install - just time consuming.
For the price of shipping you can have the SC...