Extended Lower Ball Joint Group Buy--FIRST shipment
Or not upgrade. They are not worth it for PT and TT where they are +2 points. This part is pretty much only for HPDE or Spec Miata. Or if you make a lot of power, the big bore ST/TT classes but up there Miatas are usually outgunned due to short wheelbase and skinny tires.
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 18,643
Total Cats: 1,870
From: Beaverton, USA
I'm not building a car around PT/TT but if it comes to the region I would run it for fun. Which is why I would want the NASA legal version. I have the group buy version, which means I would have to upgrade at some point.
Are the normal offset bushings +2 also?
Are the normal offset bushings +2 also?
Offset bushings are no points as long as they are not metallic. So delrin, poly, rubber, etc.
Not particularly. The great thing about a turbo car is that you can adjust power to make it into a lot of different classes, and can pick one that has a decent amount of participation.
What's the least amount of camber these would allow for ? Max I got on my car was 1.9 deg. Negative. Don't wanna buy these and be stuck with a ton of negative camberssss.
* I need new lower ball joints
* I need new lower ball joints
Depends upon your ride height. It all works together. The lower the car, the more negative camber you will "naturally" have due to the double wishbone suspension.
These are best used on track cars where the extra negative camber is needed. In my case, I need about 0.5 degrees more negative for my front tires to be happy. Not a setup I would drive on the street though.
These are best used on track cars where the extra negative camber is needed. In my case, I need about 0.5 degrees more negative for my front tires to be happy. Not a setup I would drive on the street though.
Can you please advise your 'pinch' ride height, and what position your camber adjusters ended up in to give your -ve 3.5 on the front?
Cheers.
4.2" Pinch weld height in the front.
I can try to snap pics of the eccentric bolts and post them.
If you looked at the camber adjustments from you'd see that the left and right are not exactly the same, because every 20 year old car has had its suspension tweaked in one way or another. Ride height, set-up, accidents, flexy a-arms etceteras are all going to affect your camber rates. Min/max may not be the same.
Thanks. If you can snap pics that would be cool.
(& yes I get that the adjustment position with the same settings can vary from car to car due to many factors. just after a ballpark idea)
The new ball joint will shift your current adjustment range about another -2 degrees. If you were able get a max of -2.5 before you can now get a max of -4.5
The range of adjustment on all Miata's is about 2.5 to 3 degrees. Where you fall in that range varies by ride height, NA vs NB and all sorts of other little variables from manufacturing tolerances to impact damage.
At my ride height I max out at -3 degrees. That means my adjustment range is -.5 to -3. degrees. With these new ball joints the new range is -2.5 to -5 degrees. This will allow me to raise the car slightly (it's slammed to get better camber) and get the -3.5 I am looking for with great castor numbers.
Hope that helps. The actual figures above may be slightly off but you get the idea.
The range of adjustment on all Miata's is about 2.5 to 3 degrees. Where you fall in that range varies by ride height, NA vs NB and all sorts of other little variables from manufacturing tolerances to impact damage.
At my ride height I max out at -3 degrees. That means my adjustment range is -.5 to -3. degrees. With these new ball joints the new range is -2.5 to -5 degrees. This will allow me to raise the car slightly (it's slammed to get better camber) and get the -3.5 I am looking for with great castor numbers.
Hope that helps. The actual figures above may be slightly off but you get the idea.
Last edited by k24madness; Dec 24, 2015 at 01:50 AM.






