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Old 12-15-2015, 03:19 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
When you say they need the logo to be legal for NASA is that spec Miata or like TT/PT
Both track and cone bending. They are still adjusting the rules in at least one class, so the rules are still in flux. The ocean shipment all have laser-etched logos.
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:26 PM   #62
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Hmmm. Add that to the list of things to upgrade when NASA comes back to the PNW (hopefully)
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:32 PM   #63
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Hmmm. Add that to the list of things to upgrade when NASA comes back to the PNW (hopefully)
Or not upgrade. They are not worth it for PT and TT where they are +2 points. This part is pretty much only for HPDE or Spec Miata. Or if you make a lot of power, the big bore ST/TT classes but up there Miatas are usually outgunned due to short wheelbase and skinny tires.
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Old 12-15-2015, 10:40 PM   #64
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I'm not building a car around PT/TT but if it comes to the region I would run it for fun. Which is why I would want the NASA legal version. I have the group buy version, which means I would have to upgrade at some point.

Are the normal offset bushings +2 also?
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:12 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
I'm not building a car around PT/TT but if it comes to the region I would run it for fun. Which is why I would want the NASA legal version. I have the group buy version, which means I would have to upgrade at some point.

Are the normal offset bushings +2 also?
The ones you have are already fine for everything except Spec Miata, so unless you want to do SM then you won't need to buy another set. You're way past SM though anyways lol. You just have to take points in PT or small bore TT. Big bore classes don't care.

Offset bushings are no points as long as they are not metallic. So delrin, poly, rubber, etc.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:13 PM   #66
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kk cool. I know nothing about NASA so thats good to hear. Why are the ball joints points but offset bushings aren't?
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:18 PM   #67
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kk cool. I know nothing about NASA so thats good to hear. Why are the ball joints points but offset bushings aren't?
Honestly I have no idea. There are a lot of things in the rules that make you scratch your head.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:20 PM   #68
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Cool thanks. I have a turbo car so I assume I would be up a lot farther in the classes.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:22 PM   #69
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Cool thanks. I have a turbo car so I assume I would be up a lot farther in the classes.
Not particularly. The great thing about a turbo car is that you can adjust power to make it into a lot of different classes, and can pick one that has a decent amount of participation.
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:23 PM   #70
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Cool. I'm a somewhat shitty driver, but hopefully will at least be decent by the time (if ever) NASA comes back.
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Old 12-19-2015, 08:40 PM   #71
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What's the least amount of camber these would allow for ? Max I got on my car was 1.9 deg. Negative. Don't wanna buy these and be stuck with a ton of negative camberssss.

* I need new lower ball joints
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Old 12-19-2015, 09:46 PM   #72
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per the original post- -.5 is the least
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:52 AM   #73
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Depends upon your ride height. It all works together. The lower the car, the more negative camber you will "naturally" have due to the double wishbone suspension.

These are best used on track cars where the extra negative camber is needed. In my case, I need about 0.5 degrees more negative for my front tires to be happy. Not a setup I would drive on the street though.
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:18 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by cyotani View Post
I just got these installed over the weekend and wanted to give my impressions on everything.

...
Thanks for taking the time post some real info up. Awesome to see a review of these early on!

Can you please advise your 'pinch' ride height, and what position your camber adjusters ended up in to give your -ve 3.5 on the front?

Cheers.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:05 PM   #75
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FYI, mine had the logo on them. So some might have them.
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Old 12-21-2015, 08:10 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neddy View Post
Thanks for taking the time post some real info up. Awesome to see a review of these early on!

Can you please advise your 'pinch' ride height, and what position your camber adjusters ended up in to give your -ve 3.5 on the front?

Cheers.

4.2" Pinch weld height in the front.

I can try to snap pics of the eccentric bolts and post them.
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Old 12-22-2015, 05:26 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwink View Post
per the original post- -.5 is the least
If you looked at the camber adjustments from you'd see that the left and right are not exactly the same, because every 20 year old car has had its suspension tweaked in one way or another. Ride height, set-up, accidents, flexy a-arms etceteras are all going to affect your camber rates. Min/max may not be the same.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:07 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by cyotani View Post
4.2" Pinch weld height in the front.

I can try to snap pics of the eccentric bolts and post them.

Thanks. If you can snap pics that would be cool.

(& yes I get that the adjustment position with the same settings can vary from car to car due to many factors. just after a ballpark idea)
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Old 12-23-2015, 06:50 PM   #79
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The new ball joint will shift your current adjustment range about another -2 degrees. If you were able get a max of -2.5 before you can now get a max of -4.5

The range of adjustment on all Miata's is about 2.5 to 3 degrees. Where you fall in that range varies by ride height, NA vs NB and all sorts of other little variables from manufacturing tolerances to impact damage.

At my ride height I max out at -3 degrees. That means my adjustment range is -.5 to -3. degrees. With these new ball joints the new range is -2.5 to -5 degrees. This will allow me to raise the car slightly (it's slammed to get better camber) and get the -3.5 I am looking for with great castor numbers.

Hope that helps. The actual figures above may be slightly off but you get the idea.

Last edited by k24madness; 12-24-2015 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 01-05-2016, 01:01 PM   #80
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second run coming?
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