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Old 07-16-2015, 11:53 PM   #701
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:30 AM   #702
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Originally Posted by sonofthehill View Post
I'm a tight ***, can't you tell by the way I don't rev my **** high enough. I ported it the size of my tiny bunghole, no wonder it's too small
It's not really about the actually wastegate diameter size, it's about directing the exhaust into to promote the flow.

Right now the path of least resistance is still just going through turbine.





Think about a highway, would you rather have to stop and turn 90 or take a nice offramp?
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:13 AM   #703
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Also think about how you would force air to open the flapper. You want it to slip downward so it hits the wall of the wastegate and forces it open

Here is a shitty pic on a different turbo but as you can see the air in the before pic doesn't even want to go into the wastegate. So by dipping a valley and making the air ram into that wall it is able to create enough pressure to open the flap.


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Old 07-17-2015, 10:17 AM   #704
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On my setup, a 2560r with the wastegate tied open, 4.8 psi at 7k is reasonable?
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:50 AM   #705
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Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post
Also think about how you would force air to open the flapper. You want it to slip downward so it hits the wall of the wastegate and forces it open
I swear I think you just post the opposite of everything. I know, I know, probably just another mis-post, but I feel I must correct you:
You DON'T want the exhaust pushing the flapper open. You never want the flapper blown open. It happens on other cars, and it sucks, because then you will have the opposite of boost creep, which also sucks.

It's about flow, not pressure. You want it to flow well to the port and through the port. OPening/closing is done by actuator only unless your actuator sucks
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Old 07-17-2015, 11:39 AM   #706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stratosteve View Post
On my setup, a 2560r with the wastegate tied open, 4.8 psi at 7k is reasonable?
Yes. Frankly, anything below the target boost by enough margin to allow no creep under any circumstances should be sufficient. Account for the fact that cold weather conditions produce much denser air and more chance for creep.
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Old 07-17-2015, 11:52 AM   #707
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Yes. Frankly, anything below the target boost by enough margin to allow no creep under any circumstances should be sufficient. Account for the fact that cold weather conditions produce much denser air and more chance for creep.
Thanks.

I didnt create much of a channel for mine. I mainly worked on knocking down the inner radius leading into the port. Not sure if it will be the same on a churbo?
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:36 PM   #708
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I swear I think you just post the opposite of everything. I know, I know, probably just another mis-post, but I feel I must correct you:
You DON'T want the exhaust pushing the flapper open. You never want the flapper blown open. It happens on other cars, and it sucks, because then you will have the opposite of boost creep, which also sucks.

It's about flow, not pressure. You want it to flow well to the port and through the port. OPening/closing is done by actuator only unless your actuator sucks
correct. the wastegate actuator pushes the wastegate flapper open once the boost pressure on the diphram overcomes the preload.

if you port the diameter of the wastegate hole, you could possibly run into this very situation where you can never raise boost with your current wastgate actuator, because the forces on the flapper is greater than the preload on the spring and it stays open when you want it closed to build more boost.
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Old 07-17-2015, 01:27 PM   #709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I swear I think you just post the opposite of everything. I know, I know, probably just another mis-post, but I feel I must correct you:
You DON'T want the exhaust pushing the flapper open. You never want the flapper blown open. It happens on other cars, and it sucks, because then you will have the opposite of boost creep, which also sucks.

It's about flow, not pressure. You want it to flow well to the port and through the port. OPening/closing is done by actuator only unless your actuator sucks
How the hell could the exhaust push the flapper open with preload on the WGA? No **** its about flow. I guess im just being misunderstood.
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Old 07-17-2015, 01:37 PM   #710
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Ahh I see what I did "force air to open the flapper" I meant "force air through the open flapper". Assuming the flapper is open, the channel provides a smother bleed of boost to all more pressure to escape.
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Old 07-17-2015, 01:38 PM   #711
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How the hell could the exhaust push the flapper open with preload on the WGA? No **** its about flow. I guess im just being misunderstood.
I don't think you realize how much pressure is in the hotside at high boost/high flow situations. There are numerous examples out there of flappers being blown open by exhaust pressure and the wga pre-load can't hold it, so the car drops boost.

*edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyP3821 View Post
Ahh I see what I did "force air to open the flapper" I meant "force air through the open flapper". Assuming the flapper is open, the channel provides a smother bleed of boost to all more pressure to escape.
ok so we're cool then. lol

Last edited by 18psi; 07-17-2015 at 01:52 PM.
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Old 07-17-2015, 01:52 PM   #712
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danger to the butt plug.
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Old 07-17-2015, 02:46 PM   #713
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LOL I still cant even write a damn sentence correct even when I edit myself. I guess its the price I pay for sneaking on MT at work
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:00 PM   #714
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I vehemently disagree with the majority of you here.

Port diameter is about ten times as important as blending on this turbo, no material or room to "blend" anything. You'll never ever blow the wastegate on this turbo open, it's not happening. You should be able to make much less than 6 pounds at redline. A 1.6 can't be that different, I make less than 2 psi with the gate wired open. A 1.6 can't flow that much less than 1.8, nope.

Also, new same turbo that looks different.

REV9 T3 Turbo turbocharger Compressor AR42 Turbine 48 Internal Wastegate 350HP | eBay
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:20 PM   #715
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Originally Posted by deezums View Post
I vehemently disagree with the majority of you here.

Port diameter is about ten times as important as blending on this turbo, no material or room to "blend" anything. You'll never ever blow the wastegate on this turbo open, it's not happening. You should be able to make much less than 6 pounds at redline. A 1.6 can't be that different, I make less than 2 psi with the gate wired open. A 1.6 can't flow that much less than 1.8, nope.

Also, new same turbo that looks different.

REV9 T3 Turbo turbocharger Compressor AR42 Turbine 48 Internal Wastegate 350HP | eBay

Im gonna disagree with you. Pressure trying to go around a 90 degree corner is always harder than pressure going around a 45 degree one and who drives a 1.6 anymore? I though we all just used them as garage art or made coffee tables out of them
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Old 07-17-2015, 07:25 PM   #716
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I read the early pages about size, pressure and flow. I focused on smoothing and radiusing and didn't increase the diameter but I wussed out on the channel since Lars blew that hole in his housing, going a little too far.
What about the back side? I guess we don't want to make it easy for air to slip back out. I left mine alone except for smoothing out a few nicks I made by mistake.
There is still room for more on mine without increasing the diameter.
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Old 07-17-2015, 08:58 PM   #717
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Lars went way to far on the port. Just go slow and use a micrometer to measure thickness as you go. Right at the edge of the whole you should have a little over the thickness of a nickle then taper upwards and blend the walls.
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Old 07-18-2015, 01:22 PM   #718
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this was my port:







this was my last dyno I ever did (im trying to find my logs to show the wastegate):

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Old 07-18-2015, 02:46 PM   #719
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this was my port:







this was my last dyno I ever did (im trying to find my logs to show the wastegate):

Was this on a 1.6?
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Old 07-18-2015, 05:18 PM   #720
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yes.
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