When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I imagine knockoff turbo engineering like this: make sure whatever wheel is copied fits whatever housing is copied in hopes that the wheel will spin inside the housing. Then label it T04B or T3T4 or GT3076 if it fits T3 turbine flange.
Sometimes you get lucky and you get a copy of a better wheel design. I think that's what happened brainy on his eBay T3 "Super 60" - the blades/fins had more height at the axis than a true S60 and he believes that improved spool. Now that's engineering!
I don't know if Lars is still shipping out the Turbosmart Race port with his kits but if he is and you are having turbo flutter issues I found an easy fix. Shimming the spring that was included didn't work as it still wasn't light enough. If you pick up the Turbosmart Race port spring kit, it comes with 3 different springs. Putting in the purple one (-10in/hg) and the pink one (-4in/hg) with one washer at the bottom was pretty much perfect to remove almost all of the flutter with minimal leaking at idle. Just thought I would share, I'm sure most people are smarter than me and came up with other fixes. Hope this helps someone!
I don't know if Lars is still shipping out the Turbosmart Race port with his kits but if he is and you are having turbo flutter issues I found an easy fix. Shimming the spring that was included didn't work as it still wasn't light enough. If you pick up the Turbosmart Race port spring kit, it comes with 3 different springs. Putting in the purple one (-10in/hg) and the pink one (-4in/hg) with one washer at the bottom was pretty much perfect to remove almost all of the flutter with minimal leaking at idle. Just thought I would share, I'm sure most people are smarter than me and came up with other fixes. Hope this helps someone!
I got a different bov with his kit. It's the turboxs eBay special. Still flutters though. That one has a cap you can unscrew and adjust the spring I just don't have the man power to unscrew it. Need to hit the gym.
I have that one as well that came with the kit and just tried unscrewing it with no issues. Must have gotten locked up on you somehow. Maybe try a getting it cold to get it unscrewed? I feel like it shouldn't really be on that tight.
I have the Ebay "Greddy" BOV and it has an adjustment screw at the top i have it cranked down with maybe 2-3mm of the set screw poking out to get the BOV to not open when in heavy vacuum during decel. It flutters a little but really only happens between 0-1psi and you lightly roll off throttle. otherwise 2psi and up from what ive seen doesnt flutter.
Anyone running catch cans on their setup? im trying to decide if i want to vent the PCV side to Atmosphere. i currently have a dual catch can set up, one for the Turboside that vents to atmosphere and another on the PCV side the recirc back into the intake manifold.
For people running the MKTurbo oil lines with AC, how do you have your drain routed?
I have mine as best approximating downward sloping as possible, but it does a good bit of snaking past other hoses. At no point does it slope upward. I have it with the angled elbow fitting on the pan side and the straight fitting at the turbo. I can't get the elbow to point upward lest it hit the AC bracket so it is horizontal, pointing to the rear of the car. Turbo is clocked with drain at 6 o'clock and feed at 12.
On first start it looked like my oil drain wasn't keeping up, the turbo started smoking visibly after a few minutes of idling (at the turbo, not out of the exhaust). Was a whitish smoke, and there was some very tiny sizzling going on around the bolts near the outlet to the downpipe. Is there any chance the oil feed/drain is fine and this is just all that odd smelling Chinese assembly lube burning off or do I need to do a better job routing the drain?
I currently have a breather on the driver side valve cover bung so I don't think its positive pressure messing with the drain.
For people running the MKTurbo oil lines with AC, how do you have your drain routed?
I have mine as best approximating downward sloping as possible, but it does a good bit of snaking past other hoses. At no point does it slope upward. I have it with the angled elbow fitting on the pan side and the straight fitting at the turbo. I can't get the elbow to point upward lest it hit the AC bracket so it is horizontal, pointing to the rear of the car. Turbo is clocked with drain at 6 o'clock and feed at 12.
On first start it looked like my oil drain wasn't keeping up, the turbo started smoking visibly after a few minutes of idling (at the turbo, not out of the exhaust). Was a whitish smoke, and there was some very tiny sizzling going on around the bolts near the outlet to the downpipe. Is there any chance the oil feed/drain is fine and this is just all that odd smelling Chinese assembly lube burning off or do I need to do a better job routing the drain?
I currently have a breather on the driver side valve cover bung so I don't think its positive pressure messing with the drain.
Could be the Chinese turbo machine oil. I know they ship them coated in oil so they dont rust in shipment. I know on my mkturbo oil drain kit came with a rivet oil restrictor. Idk if Lars revised setup has it. Check the baggy if you have any.
Could be the Chinese turbo machine oil. I know they ship them coated in oil so they dont rust in shipment. I know on my mkturbo oil drain kit came with a rivet oil restrictor. Idk if Lars revised setup has it. Check the baggy if you have any.
Makes sense. The oil feed flange that Lars sent me has a very small hole in it, from memory looked like 1/16" or something, so I think the new version has the restriction built-in. Unless I am completely wrong and that's why my turbo is smoking.
Do I risk any serious damage by letting it smoke for a while at idle and seeing if it burns off?
Makes sense. The oil feed flange that Lars sent me has a very small hole in it, from memory looked like 1/16" or something, so I think the new version has the restriction built-in. Unless I am completely wrong and that's why my turbo is smoking.
Do I risk any serious damage by letting it smoke for a while at idle and seeing if it burns off?
based on your description that its smoking around the housing i want to say its just oils burning off especially since theres no smoke out the tail pipe. But if you want to be extra careful you could pull the turbo and see if theres oil in the turbine or compressor housing.
based on your description that its smoking around the housing i want to say its just oils burning off especially since theres no smoke out the tail pipe. But if you want to be extra careful you could pull the turbo and see if theres oil in the turbine or compressor housing.
Yea I will try to see if I can arrange a smoother path for the oil line then idle it and see if it burns off. Thanks again.
So I'm flipping my oil return line because my car has been smoking and burning oil. Was figuring that maybe the line was too bent and not flowing enough oil making the turbo burn it instead.
Well anyway, I could have sworn there was a nut here at the threads that was shaved off when they balanced it. I may be wrong. Can any of you confirm? There is just a bunch of threads at the top. Flipped the line around so that the angled part is up top and the straight part is at the bottom. How do you guys have your line routed? This is a 99 nb1.
That's how I had to run my oil return, I have a 97 with a/c and p/s. just could not make it fit with the 45 on the bottom. My car is also right hand drive though. So I have a brake line and a little bit different of a/c line routing.
03-26-2018, 12:20 PM
0
