Press Release: Billet Fuel Rail for 94-97 Miata - $99 - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 06-04-2008, 12:27 AM   #21
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hey now my vishnu rail's been in for like 5 yrs.
How many years left till you pay off the mortgage on the Vishnu rail?

I have 25 years left.
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Old 06-04-2008, 01:33 AM   #22
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Ill probably get one of these too
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:57 AM   #23
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What are the benefits of this thing?
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:16 AM   #24
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What are the benefits of this thing?
1. wrong thread to discuss the merits of the product
2. do a ******* search
3. don't listen to saml01
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:43 AM   #25
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woot!!
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:13 AM   #26
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reading comprehension owns me. Any chance the rail will be finished sooner...I need my **** on the road by the end of the month.


Thanks, and I love you.

-hustler
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:26 AM   #27
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reading comprehension owns me. Any chance the rail will be finished sooner...I need my **** on the road by the end of the month.
Can't promise.. Use a stock rail in the meantime.. (What I am doing)
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:18 PM   #28
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Can't promise.. Use a stock rail in the meantime.. (What I am doing)
I'd rather tune the car once.


Post the **** up, I'm inn like flynn.
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:19 PM   #29
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Very nice. I anxiously await your post coming on Monday.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:37 PM   #30
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I'd rather tune the car once.


Post the **** up, I'm inn like flynn.
Seriously? "Tune" for 12:1 under boost, 13:1 off of it, and tune a bit more carefully when the rail shows up. Don't be "a tool".
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:59 PM   #31
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refinance now, save a few points, lol

I am seriously thinking about abondoning the fuel rail project and jump on this as well, price is right and requires no effort of me. What to do???????
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:01 PM   #32
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Seriously? "Tune" for 12:1 under boost, 13:1 off of it, and tune a bit more carefully when the rail shows up. Don't be "a tool".
I'm going to take the boost all the way up to see what it makes. I fairly certain a gt28rs is capable of blowing enough air to exhaust that rail. If people are making 250+ at 9psi, 18psi should be interesting. I have to at least post 1 300whp dyno to **** people off around town.
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:06 PM   #33
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is it possible to get SAE ports instead of NPT?
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:11 PM   #34
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You've yet to explain why you can't run the car on the stock rail at 250 hp for a month, then swap rails and tune.

And I'd love to see your input on the other thread about the point of these rails....
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:19 PM   #35
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You've yet to explain why you can't run the car on the stock rail at 250 hp for a month, then swap rails and tune.

And I'd love to see your input on the other thread about the point of these rails....
Because I'm not driving the car for a month without dyno time. I don't have money to throw around.
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:46 PM   #36
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This is going to pollute this thread, but..... a lot of people say this. And they let their car sit for a long time.... It's a question of margin. And, perhaps, you can work out other bugs in the mean time. You can run the car a bit over rich, and bit over retarded, and a bit lower boost for a month, and what will be the downside?

I see two effects
1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune.
2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280.

Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself.
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:59 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
This is going to pollute this thread, but..... a lot of people say this. And they let their car sit for a long time.... It's a question of margin. And, perhaps, you can work out other bugs in the mean time. You can run the car a bit over rich, and bit over retarded, and a bit lower boost for a month, and what will be the downside?

I see two effects
1) You'll find any weird software or mechanical surprises during that time, issues that if you found them after your expensive dyno tune, you'd have to fix then redynotune.
2) You'd probably waste 2 gallons of gas, and be putting 225 hp to the ground when it could have been 280.

Plus, you'll have a baseline. Put in the new rail, and your reqfuel goes down 10%, that would be interesting to know in itself.
I have no clue what to do with spark on the street, and I won't know its detonating until its too late. The turbo has an 8psi spring, so putting down 225whp is not really an option. Its not that big of a deal, I'll just run the car off boost until I'm ready to do whatever. I'd like to save the money, but I think a $100 fuel rail is good insurance on a $3k motor.
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:09 PM   #38
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Find a reasonable map from someone with a similar motor (if you were running MS-II I'd give you mine, it's not too hard to convert in excel anyway). 8 lb spring would be fine for tooling around.

I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor?

If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm.

Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time.

Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped.

Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards.
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
Find a reasonable map from someone with a similar motor (if you were running MS-II I'd give you mine, it's not too hard to convert in excel anyway). 8 lb spring would be fine for tooling around.

I'm not saying don't spend the $100 (I'm not recommending it either just yet), but the car won't just explode when you turn the key. Do you have a knock sensor?

If not, then I'd say get one, and spend the $100 on the rail on that. I've had it save my butt a couple times. Once in Oregon, the non-self-serve attendant put regular gas in my car. I caught him doing it, but damage done. Well, I saw the knock sensor flashing and pulled the wastegate arm.

Another time, I got a ticket for no front plate. Put one on, in front of the intercooler, and drove to get it signed off. During that drive, I got knock all the time.

Both of those, all the dyno tuning or fuel rail in the world wouldn't have helped.

Knowing your car (i.e. being capable of runing it without a dyno tune) is much more important than any other piece of hardware. Next, the hardware that enables you to do that (wideband, boost guage, knock sensor) is most important. After that, getting the last 10% of HP out of it on a dyno is the thing to do, but it's not the first thing. It sounds like you're building a nice motor - I suggest getting the tools and the comfort to take it to those levels it's capable of. If you don't think you can run 8 psi hand tuned on the street, develop those skills/tools, then you'll get the most out of the dyno time, and not risk the car afterwards.
I have knocksense, egt logging, boost, oil temp, and WBo2. I really think its not a good idea to drive around without an intelligently adjusted spark table. There is still no way I'm going to know if #1 is lean and 2-4 are fat.
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:59 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I have to at least post 1 300whp dyno to **** people off around town.
Yes. You do!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkulak View Post
It is Official - ETD Racing/M-Tuned is ready to offer their Billet Dual Feed fuel rail for the 99-05 BP 1.8 Miata.

We will be ready to start taking orders on Monday, with an expected delivery of 3-4 weeks.

The Fuel rail will be similar to popular billet rails, but will be offered at an Introductory price of $99 + 10 shipping! Why buy another rail, when you can have this billet piece for under $100!

I will provide you ordering instructions by Monday!
This is an awesome deal! Really looking forward to pics of the finished product.
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