So what's actually wrong with it? Seems a lot of you are hating on the setup.

 

did you forget what you read? or did you just not read it?

he's asking 300$ for something that the junkyard might get 20$ for.de dee de

 

well, sign me up for 5 of them if they are so common!!

 

then go to a junk yard and pick up 5 of them, it will still cost less than this 1...

*edit:
zoom2zoom was banned just recently.....zoomin joined just recently, and pretty much defending zoom2zoom......hmmmmmmm

 

Nobody is hating the set-up,people are just hating zoom2zoom for trying to rip people off.

.....are you him by any hance?

 

or I just favor simplicity and like the setup, never seen anything like it before the other day and caught my interest, funny that it was on here as well. what kind of car did it come out of?

 

...

 

i swear noob, start reading before yo post or you'll get banned too. and don't think i'm just being a dick, idiots dont last long on here.

18psi you're too nice lol

 

This ad entertains me since zoom2zoom is the first guy to point out and make a new thread about something overpriced.

 

edit

 

Yeah, but still, props to Abe for making the call...

Seriously, what I'm asking is for the the empirical application of something that "works", almost in spite of the math; that is, in an application like a street car that may only see relatively short (5-10s) bursts of boost with long cool-down periods, as opposed to, say, a track car that has much higher heat-transfer demands. I don't need an IC for track days, so I assume something like Bell's #1 IC would be overkill (and unnecessarily expensive) for my fun DD @230whp.

So, if a 3in thick, 7in wide, 12in tall IC would be appropriate for these purposes, please, fellow MT'ers, let me know...

Disclaimer:I'm not in league with zoom2zoom or zoombuttfuckerwithonepost or whatever and I almost want to apologize for a threadjack, but the guy (gal? tranny?) seems to be overreaching and insulting...maybe I should move my inquiry regarding the efficiency of the side-by-side over to DIY...

 

You obviously didn't read his old FS ad.

In short: That's a 20 year old copper/brass radiator that's smaller than the factory radiator. No, it won't ******* cool a 250whp miata. If it did, then why the **** would he have removed it and installed a new one?

Some things are designed to last forever and not be seviced. Some things have to be serviced and replaced. Radiators are subjected to all kinds of ****. They have a life expectancy of 6-10 years. Most go out around 8. This thing's 20 something years old? Would you really trust it? Aside from the less-than-stock cooling ability?

As mentioned, a cheap big radiator and ebay IC is the way to go. No need to ever install this POS, even if someone gave you one.

And for ***** sake, will a mod please IP check zoomin.

 

Pat, my question wasn't about his radiator-I'd replace that with an aluminum unit, congruent with your conclusions (i.e., a 20 yr-old rad will be ready to break/be replaced).

I was wondering more along the lines of this setup (side-by-side IC/rad) being viable for a street car making relatively moderate levels of power (<250whp). I did not want to, in any way, endorse his ad; on the contrary, I thought he brought up an interesting idea (most likely unwittingly) and wanted to discuss it--the potential of making 250whp w/an IC core measuring 3in thick, 7in wide, 12in tall--with an approriate (most likely aluminum aftermarket Honda) radiator?

Do you think this size IC would be adequate for <250whp?

(I need to find the link for this custom side-by-side setup I saw on mnet...still, please comment on the usefulness of this particular (and inexpensive) IC)

 

You know, I think people don't give enough credit to water-air intercoolers. They work very well! You can cool your charge better for a short run. Have you ever raced a Ford Lightening? They won't beat you but they will give you a run for your money, and they outweight a pair of sherman tanks being driven by roseanne bar.

The only real advantage to air/air intercoolers is they dump heat faster steady state. The plumbing is harder, the cooling for a single pull is worse. If you want to stop light drag race or autocross, go with w/a. I always think of changing my set up, since I don't track it.

Some very smart people around here use this set up.

 

I utilized a water/air setup on my turbo Saturn. It worked great, never had a pump failure or any leaks, people claiming more failure points are right, but if you set it up right the first time, less to worry about.

 

+1

 

Actually, it will easily. Gary Donovan used a stock T2 Rad and intercooler in a 12 second Plymouth Reliant Coupe. He ended up going 10's with 4 stock intercooler cores welded together, better equipment and also using a automatic fwd A413 trans the entire time.

The "upgraded" radiator was a stock carburated Omni rad. Only because it saved 10 lbs. a "normal" 250whp miata will have issues getting to 10's.

*note the crustiness of that stock rad*



Stock rad and intercooler:

Best time: 12.62 @ 105.8 mph, 1.87 60 ft
Boost 21-30 psi
Stock 89 Turbo II turbo/2.5 inch swing valve

Donovan's Dodge Garage

the link above, is for all information including most of the build with detailed pictures.