Black exhaust
#21
Wideband seems ok, however it jumps around like crazy at idle (looks like a light show), but the average values seem to be around 14. Basically it will hover around 14 (13-15), then dance from 10-19 on occasion. Brand new innovate MTX-L that was calibrated in air properly, but my values are changing so rapidly i am wondering if it needs some attenuation or some capacitor dampening.
#30
Not sure if anyone is still following this thread, but i changed to sequential and had all sorts of problems. Car would start and ran great. Idle seemed smoother, and car ran fine. Shut it off, and go to start it and it wont even catch. If i did get it to start, it would run unbelievably rich (i have gas literally pouring out of my exhaust) and would barely run/idle. So needless to say, I gave up after several attempts. The gains from sequential didnt really outweigh my headaches. Car still idles fine on the stock batch injection.
Anyway, i still seem to have a ton of black crap spewing at startup as well as i noticed the occasional white puff of smoke. Compression looks good. Plugs are normal. Any thoughts? I guess i am a bit worried about valve seals or bigger blow by problems. I am replacing the pcv valve today as i noticed i could blow through it in both directions. I also have a breather (little filter) on the exhaust side without any of the stock plumbing. Y'all ever seen issues with doing the crankcase this way? Basically i have the stock pcv valve from intake manifold to valve cover, and have removed the stock plumbing that ties back into the AFM (because the whole AFM is removed), and just have a little breather filter on the exhaust side port of the valve cover.
Anyway, i still seem to have a ton of black crap spewing at startup as well as i noticed the occasional white puff of smoke. Compression looks good. Plugs are normal. Any thoughts? I guess i am a bit worried about valve seals or bigger blow by problems. I am replacing the pcv valve today as i noticed i could blow through it in both directions. I also have a breather (little filter) on the exhaust side without any of the stock plumbing. Y'all ever seen issues with doing the crankcase this way? Basically i have the stock pcv valve from intake manifold to valve cover, and have removed the stock plumbing that ties back into the AFM (because the whole AFM is removed), and just have a little breather filter on the exhaust side port of the valve cover.
#32
I think i am over the black crap. Doesnt seem to be oil or coolant, so i can live with it. However, i have come upon a new problem. I have been running about 12psi fine for a while now, but for grins i decided to check the compression while i changed out my turbo flange gasket. Found about 140 to 150 across the 4 cylinders. Is that within reason? Stock head and bottom end. Strange thing is, now after replacing the gasket and checking the compression, i seem to have an issue past about 6psi. Engine bogs down like its flooded or something. Tried removing some fuel in the tune, no luck, added some with no luck either. Really getting tired of this thing lately. Tempted to drop in a stroker and start fresh, or just take it in to get a "real" dyno/tune done on it. Any ideas one what would cause this? I even tried several of my previous tunes with no luck, so i have to think its something physical, and not a tune issue. Unless there was so much exhaust leaking from that gasket, it was throwing all my tunes way off. If i had to guess, it sounds like a leak on the intake piping somewhere, but i don't see any vacuum leaks at idle, nor can i see anything. Could it be something else? Any input would be great, frustration is building faster than my boost currently...
#33
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If you worked on the car and something changed with how it runs, you likely caused the change. Be patient and keep an open mind about what might be the problem.
The consistency between the cylinder compression readings indicates everything is normal.
The consistency between the cylinder compression readings indicates everything is normal.
#34
What are the odds that my plugs or plug wires have gone on me? I have heard that the stock ignition and wires are pretty bad, and that the wires should be replaced every 20k or so. Seems like a stretch, but it definitely sounds/feels like its not getting spark at and over 6psi. What i have a hard time with is it seems ok elsewhere on my maps, just bogs down over 6psi. The kicker is for the first time, it seems to misfire at idle occasionally, as well as hesitate while driving now. Cant be coincidence but just very odd this all starts happening after i pull the plugs and swap a gasket...
#35
So i think i have narrowed it down to fuel. After doing some investigation with all my tunes, i am starting to believe its a dwell issue, or bad spark. Can someone post their ignition settings from MT? Here's mine, wondering if me dwell settings are correct for the stock ignition, plugs, coils, etc.
#36
Issue resolved. Wow, what a difference! Dropped in new BKR6E-11's and wires, and holy crap. No more hesitation! Could barely keep 1st and second gear on the ground! Now i just need to figure out whats up with my AFR's. I cant imagine its normal to have it jumping around like this. I have it grounded to the same ground as the MS. How can i smooth this out?
#37
Here is just cruising, and you can see my AFR all over the place. How can you dampen the curve? I have put in the 0-5v settings in the project calibration. Its a Innovate MTX-L. Their documentation says 0v -> 7.35 and 5v -> 22.4. Should i adjust, or is this something i can fix by doing an open air recalibrate?
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