Looking for a 2001-2005 1.8 tune for my MSPNP - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-14-2010, 02:32 AM   #21
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That'd be sort of difficult, I'd have no way to test for fitment nor know exactly what your configuration was Nagase

However, I don't like the S4 or S5 rotaries. I love the 13BRE (Cosmo, if you will), and I personally feel that even 12A's are superior to the 2nd gen. However, do you know what goes into building a 230rwhp non-pport n/a rotary out of curiousity?
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:40 AM   #22
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That'd be sort of difficult, I'd have no way to test for fitment nor know exactly what your configuration was Nagase

However, I don't like the S4 or S5 rotaries. I love the 13BRE (Cosmo, if you will), and I personally feel that even 12A's are superior to the 2nd gen. However, do you know what goes into building a 230rwhp non-pport n/a rotary out of curiousity?
Psh, you just make the wires as long as the original Miata loom. Easy pie.

Why don't you like the S4 or S5?

Yeah, I have some idea... intake, exhaust, megasquirt, RE/W housings, massive street port, S5/Renesis rotors should do it. Been following the max street port N/A whp thread on 7club for /years/.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:43 AM   #23
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http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=818133

That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing.

As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are *** compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:47 AM   #24
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http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=818133

That's probably my favorite thread on the topic - but check out his port work. It's amazing.

As for why I don't like the S4 or S5, frankly, I feel it takes a lot more work to get them in an equivalent state to an S6+. The housings alone are *** compared to S6+, as an example. S6+ is so much better made, and S3- are rock solid. S4 and S5 just...aren't that great in my eyes compared to other options.
Lol, funny you should link that. I sent him an email about a month ago asking how much it would cost to duplicate his setup, and if I could buy it from him.

Never got back to me.

I think the FB is the best 7, honestly. The FC is just too heavy for N/A, and I don't like the feel of a turbo on a rotary. It detracts from the character and feel of the engine (then again, I'm not much of a turbo person...).

And yeah, I'm totally in agreement with S6's. That was always my end goal.

He said 230whp wasn't even optimized as a setup. Nice.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:52 AM   #25
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Ehh, I like the FB a lot, but the FD has it's own sex appeal. I use my fail chariots as daily drivers though - they make surprisingly good ones, although my 24-25mpg is a bit low.

Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:58 AM   #26
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Ehh, I like the FB a lot, but the FD has it's own sex appeal. I use my fail chariots as daily drivers though - they make surprisingly good ones, although my 24-25mpg is a bit low.

Still, I think your goals might be a bit high for an n/a rotary. Duplicating what he achieved would require a 13BRE core - down to the mani. You couldn't start with a S4/S5 engine. And if you are willing to spend that much on a 13BRE (The port work gets expensive when doing that) you could just as well seriously consider a 20B.
Eh, the FD is nice. I've been in and driven one, but again. Turbo. Honestly, my reasonable dream garage would have an n/a rotarty miata and an LSx FD. :P

I hadn't looked too far into the manifolds, honestly. That or exhausts. The wiring scared me away from the project, and now I have neither part to it... and another turbo miata coming together instead.

Still though, is there no one making an aftermarket intake for the 13b? Is it only carburator or hack on stock manifolds?
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:00 AM   #27
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Most serious people go for the 13BRE intake for "aftermarket".

I haven't ran into anything that actually is better than the 13BRE intake.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:05 AM   #28
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Most serious people go for the 13BRE intake for "aftermarket".

I haven't ran into anything that actually is better than the 13BRE intake.
Doesn't seem all that expensive: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jdm-M...item3a615704a5

By the time you sell off the turbo stuff, maybe 1k?

Port it, put in Renesis rotors, shorten the intake manifold by 2", make an exhaust, intake, and 230whp.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:16 AM   #29
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You'll have to rebuild that. I will lay you large amounts of money you'll have to rebuild that, even.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:18 AM   #30
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You'll have to rebuild that. I will lay you large amounts of money you'll have to rebuild that, even.
Well yes, it would be difficult to do the porting and renesis rotors without the rebuilding part of that...
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:20 AM   #31
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Well yes, it would be difficult to do the porting and renesis rotors without the rebuilding part of that...
No. As in replacing everything internally.

Which is precisely where my rotary swap went overbudget. ;P
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:27 AM   #32
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No. As in replacing everything internally.

Which is precisely where my rotary swap went overbudget. ;P
Yeah, I get that. Looked at Pinapple Racing for a baseline... 4k to get that work done.

Guess it's not bad, 4k is pretty typical engine rebuild costs, and starting out with an FC+Miata would get a car running for a long time to save up money, and could optimize ecu/intake/exhaust while doing so.

That was my plan:

Stage 1: Get the car running with an FC engine, make it reliable
Stage 2: Optimize everything that can carry over to the next engine.
Stage 3: Pop in super engine

Coolant, easy. Motor mounts, easy. V8Roadster subframe, easy. Exhaust worried me, but I could wrap my head around it.

Looked at the wiring harness... thought about wiring... sold the FC. -.-
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:35 AM   #33
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Hah.

Wiring isn't that bad, it's just time consuming.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:40 AM   #34
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Hah.

Wiring isn't that bad, it's just time consuming.
Maybe for you...

I can do wiring just fine, I even built the harness up on my motorcycle pretty much from scratch, but if there's a /problem/ with wiring, I just have no idea what to do, honestly.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:45 AM   #35
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That's actually pretty impressive.

I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring.
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:58 AM   #36
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That's actually pretty impressive.

I've been working on various PC components since the '90s, so soldering and dealing with electrical connections is old hat. Do you know how to use continuity testers and DMMs? That covers really 95%+ of troubleshooting anything with wiring.
Uh, I have one of the things that lights up if you're getting power, yeah. No idea what a DMM is though. Know how to use a multitool. Kind of.

Still going ahead on your own swap?
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:01 AM   #37
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My rotary swap is being temporarily put off, honestly. I had a rotary engine that was waiting to go in, pulled it apart to replace the soft seals, and BAM...

Damage from a coolant leak. Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage.

DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system.
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:15 AM   #38
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My rotary swap is being temporarily put off, honestly. I had a rotary engine that was waiting to go in, pulled it apart to replace the soft seals, and BAM...

Damage from a coolant leak. Not rebuildable, center plate and front iron damage.

DMM is a Digital MultiMeter. A continuity tester is one of those things that lights up. It's literally all you need to test and diagnose just about any wiring problem in a DC system.
Well there goes my plan to ask for your wiring harness remaking knowledge. -.-

I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple.
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:18 AM   #39
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Well there goes my plan to ask for your wiring harness remaking knowledge. -.-

I can figure out headlights, turn signals, that should just be line up hot and grounds, I guess I'd end up using the FC dash in the Miata (ugly) and hope the heater fan/light bulbs had the same amount of connections. I just knew things wouldn't be that simple.
Frankly, I think you are overthinking it.

You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses.

Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing.
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Old 12-14-2010, 04:32 AM   #40
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Frankly, I think you are overthinking it.

You should only need the FC engine harness, NOT the other harnesses.

Remember, FC's have several harnesses in them. The engine harness is it's own little thing. As I think about it, if you are good with reading wiring diagrams, you might be able to get a working hybrid of a FC engine harness and a Miata standard harness plugged into a MegaSquirt. You may have to extend a few connections onto the FC engine harness, but...The engine harness is it's own little thing.
Huh...

So to swap over the engine harness, I'd need to splice in coils, crank/e-shaft position sensor, oil pressure, coolant temp, throttle position, tach...

Is that it? That makes it sound almost doable. o.o;
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