Spark issue after megasquirt?
#21
did you make any wiring changes when you installed the megasquirt the first time? If you did, tell us exactly what you did. You said it sparks on both A and B above, was it a strong spark? can you get your hands on a tool like this Performance Tool High Energy Ignition Tester, Model# W84600 | Automotive Diagnostics| Northern Tool + Equipment . I would like to see if all spark is equal. If you pull the plugs after attempting to start, do they smell like fuel? is your injection setting sequential or untimed? can you datalog while trying to start and do a composite logger? Dont know if composite logger will help but its easy and good info.
#23
did you make any wiring changes when you installed the megasquirt the first time? If you did, tell us exactly what you did. You said it sparks on both A and B above, was it a strong spark? can you get your hands on a tool like this Performance Tool High Energy Ignition Tester, Model# W84600 | Automotive Diagnostics| Northern Tool + Equipment . I would like to see if all spark is equal. If you pull the plugs after attempting to start, do they smell like fuel? is your injection setting sequential or untimed? can you datalog while trying to start and do a composite logger? Dont know if composite logger will help but its easy and good info.
Tried to be as detailed as possible. Below I put the wiring changes I made as well as my current tune and the data logs you guys suggested. Oh yea, the car is mainly stock besides a few bolt-ons; here are my motor/trans parts
RB intake-JR Headers-Highflow Cat-Borla Catback
Mishimoto Radiator/Hoses
Gates Timing belt and components/water pump
MSPNP2-GM IAT-Innovative Wideband w/Bosh o2-Walbro 190LPH Fuel Pump
Wiring changes
Red wires from gauge and LC-2 to thick blue wire under steering column (12 V source). Didn't cut the blue wire, just stripped a section to tap into
White wire from gauge connected with Yellow wire from LC-2 and ran through fire wall to the stock o2 plug
The black wires from the gauge and LC-2 are connected and ran through fire wall and grounded
Removed ST Sign fuse
Here is where I connected the MAP sensor hose
Removed OEM MAF meter thing and put a GM IAT sensor into the back side of the stock cross over tube (right near the intake manifold)
took the 2 wires that came with the kit and connected them to the stock MAF meter plug like below
Uploaded the V3 3.1 map into tuner studio - "signatures don't match" - load anyway - received the errors below
Changed the sensor settings to
Spark Test
Took a video to show you guys the spark test I ran and how strong spark is.
Fuel pump switched off for test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8pv...ature=youtu.be
Current tune
CurrentTune.msq
DataLog
MSPNP2 Miata 1st Log 2016-02-22_13.19.57.msl
Composite Log
Composite Log 2016-02-22_13.22.03.csv
When I ran the logs I cranked the engine a few times for 4-5 seconds . Let me know if I missed anything
Last edited by boriicuaz; 02-22-2016 at 10:33 PM.
#24
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,181
Total Cats: 1,133
Is your fuel pump priming when you key it on?
Try new plugs. What is your required fuel at?
Like the spark test, you can test your injectors. If they're firing (careful, their test settings are a little weird), and your timing is correct, then it'll start.
Try new plugs. What is your required fuel at?
Like the spark test, you can test your injectors. If they're firing (careful, their test settings are a little weird), and your timing is correct, then it'll start.
#25
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 14,181
Total Cats: 1,133
Err, those plugs look brand new in the video, so never mind.
Try the injector test. Is the engine "stalling" while cranking? Try turning your cranking advance to -5 instead of 10, under ignition options.
Try the injector test. Is the engine "stalling" while cranking? Try turning your cranking advance to -5 instead of 10, under ignition options.