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Old 04-07-2009, 01:46 PM   #21
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You can use your stock flywheel...save the money for a 7in(1.8L) rear.
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:53 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
You can use your stock flywheel...save the money for a 7in(1.8L) rear.
i would have to have it resurfaced anyway, right? So i might as well get a nicer lighter one. Or that would really not do much good?
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:57 PM   #23
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So i might as well get a nicer lighter one. Or that would really not do much good?
You could....but I'm sure you've got better places to spend your money.

I've never resurfaced a flywheel, but then again, I'm cheap.
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:00 PM   #24
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so you were ok without resurfacing the flywheel?
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:09 PM   #25
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so you were ok without resurfacing the flywheel?
On every car I've ever owned. I generally don't since I do the clutch jobs myself, if it's in a shop you might as well pay the little bit extra.

You have to make that call based on mileage and treatment. If you're on stock power, and below 150K miles, I'd just slap a clutch on there unless you get in and notice some ugly "hot spotting."

If you really want a lightweight flywheel, this guys got one:


https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32310/

Pretty indicative what they run, the benefits are really only slightly quicker free rev as far as I'm concerned. I pulled out my A/C and PS, but have never felt the need for a lightweight flywheel.
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:10 PM   #26
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btw, I hope you can tune to 200whp.

My turbo is about the same size, and I hope to get close with only 10psi.

Keep us posted.
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Old 04-07-2009, 02:28 PM   #27
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Sounds good. I should be getting the injectors by friday and will put them on over the weekend. And will get the car on the dyno next week.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:01 PM   #28
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Is anyone making 200rwhp with a 2554 at 12psi or less on a 1.6?

It should be do-able if you do everything right like a better downpipe, exhaust, and big IC, great tune but we're talking about the s-kit downpipe right?
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:35 PM   #29
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i would try to find a totaled NB and snag the six speed and diff actually the whole drive train then just grab an ebay six puck there dirt cheap and should be good for that hp for a while. or if your strapped for cash just 94+ torsen and a clutch then you should be good for around 240hp
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:39 PM   #30
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yeah the down pipe is a begi-s and the intercooler is a small 18x12.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:42 PM   #31
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Why go with a trans that you have to shift more if you are shooting for 200hp? The shorter gearing sucks.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:45 PM   #32
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Just buy a spec clutch and roll with it.
Worry about other things as they break, such as your diff.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:46 PM   #33
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So if i am shopping for a clutch i should be looking for a 1.6l clutch correct? But i if decide to go with a new flywheel i should get a 1.8l flywheel and 1.8l clutch?
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:51 PM   #34
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If you are looking to go with a new/lighter flywheel you should take the opportunity to step up to the 1.8 because almost definitely your power plans are gonna change and 200rwhp ain't gonna be enough anymore.
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Old 04-07-2009, 09:59 PM   #35
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eBay Motors: Miata 90-93 1.6l F1Racing Stage One Clutch + Flywheel!! (item 330320632281 end time Apr-12-09 14:39:05 PDT)

Crap or good deal. I just really cant justify replacing the clutch and not replacing the flywheel. I dont want to get a that common idle drop when getting of the gas.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:01 PM   #36
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why replace the flywheel for one of the same weight if you aren't going to the 1.8?
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:03 PM   #37
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So, 1.8l flywheel and clutch combo is the way to go? So i guess people here fell ok about ebay clutches? How about ebay flywheels?
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:03 PM   #38
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Ebay flywheels : it's your legs man.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:39 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94blackmx5 View Post
i would try to find a totaled NB and snag the six speed and diff actually the whole drive train then just grab an ebay six puck there dirt cheap
6-spds go for about $600... $1000 for an MSM. 3.9 Torsen swaps go for $1000... which is what you need minimum with a 6-spd. So you're saying it's a good idea to go with a $150 known-to-suck-and-fail-all-the-time puck'd clutch after you possibly spend $2k on the rest?

Rushin, listen to me.
The stock 6" ring&pinion is very survivable at 200whp on stock'ish street rubber if you respect it. No drifting or dragging.

The stock 5spd is fine for the limits of the GT2554r. Put a 6-spd out of your mind for now. Yes, they're stronger, but the gearing is a lot shorter. There's a reason they all came with a 3.9 final drive. 1st and 2nd are useless with any power and 4.3... impractical at best with a 4.1.

Do not buy an eBay clutch (NO, DON'T DO IT!). This is the clutch you want: Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Transmission : FM Level 1 clutch

Lightweight flywheels suck on the street and are not worth the minor gain in your stoplight rev-game, IMHO. If you've never driven one, then you need to before you spend the money. If you must have one because your Honda buddies all do, then simply have a stock one shaved. You'll need an OEM 1.8 flywheel ($40) to mate with that clutch, and machine work is about $75 to shave it. Shaving the stock steel flywheel means you'll never have to buy another one. Buying any aluminum one or an eBay special almost certainly guarantees you'll be in there again, possibly before the clutch gets old.
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Old 04-07-2009, 11:46 PM   #40
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6-spds go for about $600... $1000 for an MSM. 3.9 Torsen swaps go for $1000... which is what you need minimum with a 6-spd. So you're saying it's a good idea to go with a $150 known-to-suck-and-fail-all-the-time puck'd clutch after you possibly spend $2k on the rest?

Rushin, listen to me.
The stock 6" ring&pinion is very survivable at 200whp on stock'ish street rubber if you respect it. No drifting or dragging.

The stock 5spd is fine for the limits of the GT2554r. Put a 6-spd out of your mind for now. Yes, they're stronger, but the gearing is a lot shorter. There's a reason they all came with a 3.9 final drive. 1st and 2nd are useless with any power and 4.3... impractical at best with a 4.1.

Do not buy an eBay clutch (NO, DON'T DO IT!). This is the clutch you want: Flyin' Miata : Engine/Drivetrain : Transmission : FM Level 1 clutch

Lightweight flywheels suck on the street and are not worth the minor gain in your stoplight rev-game, IMHO. If you've never driven one, then you need to before you spend the money. If you must have one because your Honda buddies all do, then simply have a stock one shaved. You'll need an OEM 1.8 flywheel ($40) to mate with that clutch, and machine work is about $75 to shave it. Shaving the stock steel flywheel means you'll never have to buy another one. Buying any aluminum one or an eBay special almost certainly guarantees you'll be in there again, possibly before the clutch gets old.
Thanks a lot for the input. I appreciate it. I have no plans for a 6speed thats for sure. I might get a torsion when the stock one blows up. I think i am going to buy a 1.8l stock flywheel and have it shaved a little bit. And will go with a good clutch like the above one.
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