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Old 04-08-2009, 05:45 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
I did 212 at 12psi on a 1.8. 200 on a 1.6 should be doable. My setup isn't exactly basic, though.
I'm just thinking the begi s base downpipe might be a problem making that power, no? what were you running for a downpipe?

I didn't dyno mine at 12 because I don't drive it at 12. I went right for 14. Trying to push my 270k motor into the grave.
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:40 PM   #62
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Just checked my chart, it was actually 219 at 12-13psi on a Dynojet. This was on a BEGi SSSG DP, 3" high-flow cat, 3" catback. On a basic DP with a good tune, you'll probably get to 200whp but not much past that.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:25 AM   #63
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lol omfg all you newbs stfu lol you are confusing him he has a Begi kit with a Megasquirt standalong system lol god. For a newb he already made 90% of his decisions correctly. The chatter isn't bad and yes its mostly from a dead stop. It in no way makes the car undriveable (If you can drive with the clutch u should get a automatic seriusly ).
There was one interesting point raised though. If you think you might want more power and you have money growing out of your ears enough to pay someone else to do **** to your car then the more expensive clutch is perfect for you it would hold more hp and ligthen your wallet so you do weight the car down as much. But if you trust yourself to take out 20 bolts (i believe it is) and heave out the 75 lbs tranny and replace it then the cheaper one is perfect for you. It will make your power gaols and allow you to aces where you want to go from there.
By doing this you will safe yourself from being saddled by a setup that is to extreme for your liking and, you will end up having to spend more money to find the median you want.
I was facing the same dillema when i began my build man i wanted 200 hp and i wanted the car to be fully useable. And eventualy i worked my way up to where you see me today. You can do the same if you want to but ultimatly you might just be satisfied with your initial product at 200 hp.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:28 AM   #64
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Oh and btw u can make just as much hp on a 1.6 flywheel as you can on a 1.8 flywheel. The only reason to change would be in the 300+ whp range and needing the extra surface area to put your power through. Sub that its is just a waste of your money and a lightweight flywheel will make your car drive alot differently most don't like them. Do a search for lightweight flywheel to read there thoughts.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:39 AM   #65
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On a serius note man if might still have my clutch if you wanna try the ebay deal its alil worn etc obvious but 50 bucks and i could probly get it to you. Its good for your 200 hp pretty easily.
I know you have to many options now man but its better than not having any.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:37 PM   #66
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thanks for the offer. I think i am just going to go with the one on ebay for 150 bucks. They give 12k and 12 month warranty. Not that it really matters, but its nice to know that. I have done timing belt 4 times, installed a turbo kit, replaced a headgasket all by myself so i think with an extra pair of hands i will be able to do the clutch too.
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Old 04-09-2009, 12:57 PM   #67
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The tranny weighs nothing, you can do it all yourself if you can do a headgasket yourself. But extra hands do come in real handy.
This will be a great time to do the rear main seal, new OEM pilot and TO bearings as well as a clutch slave and maybe even a SS clutch line to replace the old worn rubber one.
It quickly adds up though, but this is the best time to do this all.
At the bare minimum, do OEM pilot and TO bearing and rear main.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:18 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabac View Post
The tranny weighs nothing, you can do it all yourself if you can do a headgasket yourself. But extra hands do come in real handy.
This will be a great time to do the rear main seal, new OEM pilot and TO bearings as well as a clutch slave and maybe even a SS clutch line to replace the old worn rubber one.
It quickly adds up though, but this is the best time to do this all.
At the bare minimum, do OEM pilot and TO bearing and rear main.
I was for sure going to do the rear main seal. Its leaking pretty badly. I think the clutch kit usually comes with replacement bearings. I did already rebuild the slave cylinder, its was leaking like no other. I heard that ss clutch line does not do much.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:23 PM   #69
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I like that it makes the tranny removal easier i had a hell of a time getting that bolt loose with the convoluted stock **** in the way since i went custom lines there it has been so much easier. GL man keep us posted.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:34 PM   #70
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The **** that comes with clutch kits is just that, ****!
Do yourself a favor and do it right the first time.
The cheapest way to do something, is to do it right the first time, this way you are doing it only once.
OEM from Mazdacomp
pilot bearing- 9.69
TO bearing- 20.93

The clutch line is well worth it as well.

GL
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:13 PM   #71
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Thanks again guys. The idea right now is to get ebay clutch or 150 and both bearings from mazda.
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Old 04-09-2009, 02:51 PM   #72
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the throw out bearing they supplied me was the same as the one i got with my 300$ dollar ACT clutch fwiw the pilot bearing was likewise.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:08 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
the throw out bearing they supplied me was the same as the one i got with my 300$ dollar ACT clutch fwiw the pilot bearing was likewise.
good to know. Another reason why i want to go with cheaper ebay set up is because i dont drive the car much anyway so i will most likely not even put 10k on the car over the season. So i bet ebay clutch should be ok for 10k miles. And for next winter i have bigger plans. Maybe i will take on building my own forged engine. With forged pistons and such. Maybe get a bigger turbo, LSD and shoot for 300 or more hp.But that is far in the future. Maybe swap in a v8
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:28 PM   #74
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Don't forget the seal and gasket for the transmission input shaft. Less than $10 for both parts together, and another no brainer if you have the trans out.
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:38 PM   #75
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Don't forget the seal and gasket for the transmission input shaft. Less than $10 for both parts together, and another no brainer if you have the trans out.
thanks for the tip.
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Old 04-19-2009, 01:15 AM   #76
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OK, got the car tuned friday. End up putting 187hp and like 170 torque at around 9.5psi. The clutch started to slip at around 185. The car is amazingly fast, third gear is just incredibly. its not just fast but very smooth and the gas millage seams to be pretty good too. So now i need to figure out what clutch to get.
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Old 04-19-2009, 02:47 AM   #77
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Did he just say the car is amazingly fast? with 187hp and like 170 torque?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:03 AM   #78
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I'm sure it feels fast to him, for the time being anyway.
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:06 AM   #79
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Gj man told you it was totally doable Is this with the ebay clutch? It shouldnt slip at that torque.
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Old 04-19-2009, 03:11 AM   #80
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based on his other thread asking about what else to do while he has the trans off I am gonna say he didn't do the clutch yet.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t34147/
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