Transmission is out! I ziptied a plastic bag over the end of the transmission to try to save the fluid by injust changed the fluid 2 months ago with the pretty expensive Ford Motorcraft, but I still managed spill a few tablespoons out.
removal wasn't too horrible, having an impact gun, swivel, and 2 feet of extensions is a life saver.

Going to hook the turbo oil feed up to the oil pressure sending unit if anyone has tips for that. I can't even see it so not sure how its going to go.

 

I am eating my words now on the wastegate bracket being stout, my broke! I had been unable to get my tuned limit of 10psi boost for a couple of runs and was checking things out and found this.


I really don’t understand why some of my photos are rotating when uploaded to this site...this one is 180 degrees from how I took it.

Thankfully I have a spare bracket from my replacement churbo, so back in action quickly. When replacing the bracket I noticed that the wastegate actuator was contacting the hood bracing, which must be where the loads came from the break the bracket. Note for this install is to check for any interference with the hood.

While in there I also corrected the A tube interference with the hood. Previously I had some rubber sheet protecting the tube but it was still rubbing so much that it was removing material so it had to be made right.

The solution was to cut the 90 deg silicone elbow down on the large side as much as possible to lower the upper surface and also I had to cut the A tube down one inch on one side so it was symmetrical. If I just rotated without trimming it then it would have been in contact with the fan. I’ve confirmed there is no interference with some tape on the hood at the point of prior contact.

Finally, I said before that the compressor outlet was vertical but it is actually pointed a bit towards the engine. If it was perfectly vertical I don’t think the wastegate actuator arm would be able to work as there would be too much angle on it.

Pics of the newly lower A tube:




All of these pics are rotated 90 degrees CCW for some reason.

I hope these tips help you avoid my rework and repairs.

 

Remove the belly shield and the intake manifold brace to get access to the oil pressure sending unit, might as well do a new filter and oil change while you are there. Be sure to put them both back to avoid trouble down the road.

 

That is the first time I have seen a wastegate bracket break. As far as I am aware it is a Garrett designed bracket. Braineack had the same bracket on his car back in like 2005 when I met him.

Trimming some couplers shorter is semi normal. Especially coming off the turbo. Down side of trying to save money is I use generic parts when possible. Getting a custom made coupler just for me is out of the picture due to cost. I have looked into it.

 

The top of the wastegate actuator was just barely touching the hood so that is the most likely thing in my mind. I did bend that bracket when first installing it so that the actuator arm was better aligned to the wastegate, so maybe it was weak from that. The replacement bracket is unaltered and it does not appear that there is contact any longer even with the same clocking.

No issue trimming the tubes, that was easy. I got a cheap "jobber do" bead tool which makes a new bead in minutes.

 

Got the flywheel resurfaced and installed with new clutch and pressure plate. I also got the turbo oil feed line hooked up and ready to go.

Is there anything else I should do while I have the transmission out? Pertaining to the turbo kit or other general maintenance? I would really like to not have to drop the transmission for a while.

 

When I had my trans out I changed the engine rear main seal and also some of the seals on the trans. One modification that is much easier without the trans is a coolant reroute if that is in your plans. With the engine tilted forward away from the firewall you have plenty of room to install it. I also replaced the CAS o-ring at that time, another job that is really hard to do with the engine in the normal position (unless you pull off the valve cover).

 

Thanks for the tips. I did change the rear main seal. I'm hesitant on the coolant reroute mainly because I'm tired of spending money lol. With the turbo kit and misc. Parts, gaskets, hoses, fluids, etc I am nickel and diming myself to death.

 

Test fit the turbo. Looks pretty good, I need to clock it a bit more bc the ic coupler is resting against the engine hook. The other problem is there isn't enough room for the air.filter coupler.. this may be because i still have the transmission out so the engine is forward of where it usually is.

 

what do yall think? Is it ok that the coupler is resting against the engine hook? Should I remove that hook? I'm afraid if I clock it more ill have to bend the wastegate arm.

 

I took off the engine hoist hook, did not want that coupler rubbing on anything that may wear a hold in it. You will need to rotate the wastegate actuator 90 deg so the ports face outboard, otherwise they will hit the hood.
I agree your final routing will need to be with the engine in the correct position. You may need to trim couplers and tubes to get the right clearances along the path. where there was anything close to touching I used rubber sheet and otherwise tied things off to prevent chafing as best I could.

 

You only need the lifting eyes when you are removing the engine.

Lars makes a nice kit.

 

Thanks for the advice. I removed the engine eyelet and rotated the waste gate. I was able to get it just right where the coupler is not rubbing the valve cover and I didn't have to bend the waste gate bracket or rod.

Also reinstalled the transmission and driveshaft. Got hot side ic pipes ran too. Getting close to finished. Still need to refill all the fluids, run the exhaust, hookup wastegate vacuum line, and other little stuff. I was test fitting the downpipe and it looks like I need to grind a little bit of the back shelf sheet metal away to make it fit flush with the turbo exhaust outlet.

If anyone has any other tips or other things I need to do or check before finishing this please chime in.

 

 

Does anyone know if I can shorten this hose and reattach the fitting? Its.the turbo oil drain from the mkturbo kit but its too long. The metal collar on it looks like its crimped on so i dont know if i can shorten this thing or not.

 

I had the same problem with mine. That has to be cut off and a new fitting needs to be crimped on.
I ended up having a friend make me a new hose for the right length.
I think you can search for the fittings online (pretty cheap for Stainless steal). But you need a hydraulics shop to put it on. It would be better to go to a shop and have them do it. Call them and ask if they have fittings for a PTFE stainless braided hose for a AN crimped fitting (find the size from lars -8 or -10). To be accurate use a string in the location from turbo to drain then take it of and get the exact length you want them to cut it to including the fitting.
NOTE: AN fittings are nearly identical to JIC fittings (37 degree compression fittings), and may be cheaper. A hydraulic shop may use those more often than a true AN fitting.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIC_fitting

 

Thanks man! Lars emailed me back saying pretty much the same thing. I did get this current one to fit but it has a couple bends so I still want to get it shortened in the future.

 

be careful to make sure you arent restricting flow, and if you bend ptfe hose it doesnt go away.

 

IT RUNS! I don't know why but I expected it not to start. It turned right over. I did prime the turbo by unplugging the CAS and cranking the car a few times. As you can see in the video there is some smoke coming from the turbo but I'm hoping that is just greasy fingerprints and residue burning off. I currently have the wastegate wired open just.to.make sure it runs good first.

If anyone has any tips for the first drive or anything else please chime in. I'm pumped to drive this thing!