Advise on turbo size for FM kit on Mazdaspeed
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Newb
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Advise on turbo size for FM kit on Mazdaspeed
Hello fellas I was just wondering If anyone on here has ran a Garrett gt2876r on the Flyin Miata manifold? I've currently got a Gt2560r and I'm about to get the car tuned I've got a person selling me a gt2876r .70 compressor .86 hot side and I was wondering if it will fit with the fm manifold it's ok if I need to notch the frame I've included a pic of my current setup to show what I'm talking about.
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Why do you say that? I'm looking to get around 280-300whp I'm not on built internals yet I do know I'm maxing out my stock internals. But I don't want the gt2560r to be chocking on power or to be at 280-300 on like 25 psi I don't want to be over 16-18psi max
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Even if it WOULD take 25psi, what does psi have to do with anything?
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Are you plain stupid, boy? Or are you just happy to see me?
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I have seen a handful of 2560's make 275whp+ on stock motors between 16-20psi. None of them were on cast manifolds though. I honestly would not want to have a 2876 on a log manifold, the spool will not be great at all. You can check y8s old dyno threads and see how his spool was with and without vvt.
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I have seen a handful of 2560's make 275whp+ on stock motors between 16-20psi. None of them were on cast manifolds though. I honestly would not want to have a 2876 on a log manifold, the spool will not be great at all. You can check y8s old dyno threads and see how his spool was with and without vvt.
Once again I gladly appreciate it!
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From: Colorado
Why boost is meaningless by itself: Its just a pressure, and on the intake side of the engine only.
20psi into a 3L engine from a 40R is probably a lot cooler IAT than 15psi into a 3L from a 2860. In other words, that lower psi 2860 is likely making for a hotter IAT than the 40R at 20 psi.
More to the point, an engine that cant handle 300WHP due to weak rods does not really care if that 300WHP comes from a low boost supercharger or 50PSIG from a GT45. Its still more than the rods can take and the boost pressure does not really matter.
Your engine on stock internals will puke regardless of what turbo you use to hit 300WHP. You could throw some huge T4 footprint unit on there and have the capability of making 300WHP at 10psi and it will still fail. A smaller turbo may make a 'sharper' increase in TQ in certain situations, hastening the fail, but in the end its just going to happen. Buy rods. Ask Miata or 1.8T VW people about this.
20psi into a 3L engine from a 40R is probably a lot cooler IAT than 15psi into a 3L from a 2860. In other words, that lower psi 2860 is likely making for a hotter IAT than the 40R at 20 psi.
More to the point, an engine that cant handle 300WHP due to weak rods does not really care if that 300WHP comes from a low boost supercharger or 50PSIG from a GT45. Its still more than the rods can take and the boost pressure does not really matter.
Your engine on stock internals will puke regardless of what turbo you use to hit 300WHP. You could throw some huge T4 footprint unit on there and have the capability of making 300WHP at 10psi and it will still fail. A smaller turbo may make a 'sharper' increase in TQ in certain situations, hastening the fail, but in the end its just going to happen. Buy rods. Ask Miata or 1.8T VW people about this.
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Thread Starter
Newb
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Why boost is meaningless by itself: Its just a pressure, and on the intake side of the engine only.
20psi into a 3L engine from a 40R is probably a lot cooler IAT than 15psi into a 3L from a 2860. In other words, that lower psi 2860 is likely making for a hotter IAT than the 40R at 20 psi.
More to the point, an engine that cant handle 300WHP due to weak rods does not really care if that 300WHP comes from a low boost supercharger or 50PSIG from a GT45. Its still more than the rods can take and the boost pressure does not really matter.
Your engine on stock internals will puke regardless of what turbo you use to hit 300WHP. You could throw some huge T4 footprint unit on there and have the capability of making 300WHP at 10psi and it will still fail. A smaller turbo may make a 'sharper' increase in TQ in certain situations, hastening the fail, but in the end its just going to happen. Buy rods. Ask Miata or 1.8T VW people about this.
20psi into a 3L engine from a 40R is probably a lot cooler IAT than 15psi into a 3L from a 2860. In other words, that lower psi 2860 is likely making for a hotter IAT than the 40R at 20 psi.
More to the point, an engine that cant handle 300WHP due to weak rods does not really care if that 300WHP comes from a low boost supercharger or 50PSIG from a GT45. Its still more than the rods can take and the boost pressure does not really matter.
Your engine on stock internals will puke regardless of what turbo you use to hit 300WHP. You could throw some huge T4 footprint unit on there and have the capability of making 300WHP at 10psi and it will still fail. A smaller turbo may make a 'sharper' increase in TQ in certain situations, hastening the fail, but in the end its just going to happen. Buy rods. Ask Miata or 1.8T VW people about this.
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It's not whp that breaks motors, though.
250ftlbs is the "magic" number. Can get away with more or less depending on driving habits, condition of your motor, and tune.
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