Finally some progress. Got the intercooler mounted up. Charge piping up next. Managed to fit it completely in the factory plastic ductwork, which will obviously need to be cut to fit the tubing, but I'm pretty happy with how we managed to get it mounted.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b491c3748e.jpg

Water lines on. Mocked up the charge piping with PVC to get an idea of what I need to buy..
Question for the crowd: SS versus aluminum for the charge piping? I've got a friend who does really good work but prefers SS for the charge piping. Welds better, more durable, etc - does anyone have a good feel for what the weight penalty would be?

Another idea - does anyone know if the FM silicone tubing will fit?
https://www.flyinmiata.com/na8-new-s...r-upgrade.html

Charge piping should shed heat. SS keeps it in.

Not sure how ss charge piping will be more durable? I mean....it's just charge piping. It's not gonna be banging around hitting stuff.

Welds cracking from fatigue I think is the primary concern, though I suppose proper welds wouldn't have that issue.
Going with aluminum to save the weight and shed the heat.

ya, good welds wouldn't have an issue with cracking. shitty welds on SS would crack too.

You're probably looking at nearly triple the cost for stainless over aluminum.....I honestly can't think of one benefit to stainless on the charge piping other than I enjoy welding it better than aluminum.

Aluminum is on the way. For anyone else who is following along, Flyin Miata will also send you their silicone tubing for around $300 and it looks like it should fit the TSE manifold/6258/precision 350 IC combo.

Any recommendations for inexpensive/decent quality cat backs apart from Enthuza? I've emailed and called Jason a few times over the last two weeks and have yet to get a response.

Abe at Artech is decently priced and can give you a custom touch you won't get anywhere else.

I had reached out to both of them a while ago and I think Abe's pricing was better too.

Just make sure you use protection when you ask for the custom touch that curly's talking about.

Abe got back to me pretty quickly. Seems like a good deal for an SS kit.
Sav - I recall when I first ordered you mentioned sending me the NB downpipe because it was available first. The DP didn't end up going out quickly - can you tell me which one this is? Need to know so I can either order the test pipe or have one made. Thanks!https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eaa8bf7d5e.jpg

The top half is the same NA and NB, it is just the bottom half that is different. I can check my NA downpipe when I get home today and take a look and compare it to yours.

One thing I might recommend is that you have Abe put a 3" v-band flange on the end of your exhaust that goes to the down pipe. Then have a local exhaust weld on a v-band flange at the end of the down pipe and mate up to the rest of the exhaust. This way it won't matter which DP you have, and makes installing and removing simple.

That is an NA downpipe

Okay thanks for the confirmation.

Unrelated, but I found a busted 1.6 differential...
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a1defa1ef.jpg

(Actually, that's the meter for the water that goes to my house... neighbor called and told me my house was flooding the street, and I came home to this)

Probably the scariest thing I've ever done to a car.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f68344533e.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...caf517ca43.jpg

Lol, I read that funny.

"House is flooding, better tap my pan for the turbo drain."

Priorities!

Charge piping is in and fits. I'm a little worried about the hot side piping, I'll post up a pic when I get back from this work trip to see what you guys think. It's not lower than the rack or control arms, but still looks low to me... I suppose if I go over something low enough to hit the piping, it'll hit the rack and/or control arm too and then I'm really in big trouble. All that's left now is to extend the IAT sensor wiring, hook up my knock sensor, and do some heat management. Is there any reason it's a bad idea to tee vacuum for the boost control off the line that runs cruise control?

Savington - for the EBC, was there a pigtail or something that I missed in a box somewhere? Or do I have to order that connector from someone?

Also, not yet convinced V-bands are the awesomesauce everyone says they are. I'm on my third attempt getting this one not to leak...

Finally, if anyone's at the brickyard invitational this weekend swing by and say hi.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8eb3b0268c.jpg

you have to order the EBC plug. Universal USCAR/EV6/EV14 Pigtail Connector ? Flow Force Injectors

EDIT: NOT THE RIGHT ONE!
USE THIS INSTEAD: https://www.full-race.com/store/borg...oid-pigtail-1/

Seems like something that little should be included in the kit.. C'est la vie. It's ordered - thanks.
Any issues with hooking the EBC and bypass line up to the cruise control line? Do you plumb the EBC "vent" port to anything?

Finally, 5x8x18 muffler vs 5x11x22 for $160 more? It's not a DD, but does need to be legal at strict sound tracks like Atlanta Motorsports Park (think Laguna Seca for you west coasters). It also takes about an hour to get to the mountains from where I live so I'd like not to hate myself for those trips. What would you guys recommend, who have heard them in person?

I just went through this on my build, don't use the cruise control line. Two reasons, first it's behind the throttle body and sees vacuum, this is bad because it'll cause early failure of the actuator diaphragm. Secondly the long line causes the actuator to be lazy when you need it to react quickly. Since you're using an ebc just grab a tap anywhere convient between the turbo and throttle body.

Just leave the vent open, dont mistake it for a dual port actuator.

My EBC out port is tapped into my cruse control line. No issues.

I would totally run a line off the vent port to somewhere under the car. It is very annoying after a while. It is something I still need to do.

I am in the same muffler dilemma myself. But I hope the 18" one will pass sound. I prefer the sounds of it over the 22".

Say what? You can hear an 1/8" port venting over the turbo and exhaust? You don't need to worry about a muffler, you must have a black hole for a muffler.

I found a torn diaphragm after 500 miles of use, maybe it was caused by something else but there is no advantage to running a post TB port for your boost control.

From the EFR documentation, for anyone else wondering:
Bypass/recirc valve:
And I'm an idiot because the EBC inlet is already plumbed into the turbo compressor housing from BW, and the outlet just needs plugged into the wastegate with the supplied hose. Miataman why didn't you leave it this way, if you're referring to the EBC and not the recirc valve??

yes, its like a loud rape whistle. kinda.

That is how mine is set up. But the vent port is still audible.

Catback on order, ebc plug arrived... left to do before I can putt around on the street:
* Extend IAT wiring
* Wire in EBC and knock sensors
* Heat wrap for brake lines, heater hoses
* What are you guys doing for heat shielding? Is there something off the shelf I can buy? I have no sheet metal fab skills, nor do I know anyone who does
* What is the preferred solution for shrouding? The way I mounted up the intercooler it fits with the factory air director that sits behind the bumper cover, but with piping the rest of the factory shroud will obviously need to be cut up if it's going to fit at all. What have you guys done?

After I enjoy it on the street for a bit and get some kinks worked out, I need to do the water pump and timing belt and so I'll throw in a beefier radiator then (before the next track experience).

So that plug that ev14 plug linked earlier is not the right one, for anyone else reading through this. I've got an email out to BorgWarner to see what they recommend.

oops. sorry about that.

this one says its for an efr in the title: https://www.full-race.com/store/borg...oid-pigtail-1/

I believe its an EV1 not 14. So, my bad.

Yep, documentation shows Delphi EV1 pigtail. For example:
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...ils-bosch-ev1/
or, if you're a cheapskate
https://www.delcity.net/store/Fuel-I...UT4aAvRR8P8HAQ

Ordered some DEI sleeve and tape for the heater core hoses and to tape up the master cylinder. I also have a wilwood prop valve - I suppose I should make some attempt to tape this up as well? Is there an off-the-shelf heat shield that will fit? The FM one looks like it might, but the wastegate actuator on the EFR sticks up pretty high. Miataman what have you done in that area?

My heat shied is bolted to the strut tower, and will extend down and around the downpipe eventually, but I haven't gotten that far yet.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cf291e5c47.jpg

Thanks... Will have to see if there's anyone local I can feed beer to in order to make something happen.
I also couldn't resist the temptation to drive around the block, now that everything is hooked up and I'm just waiting on fiddly stuff. I also have to figure out why the PS is now leaking from the return fitting on the PS pump.

IT'S ALIVE!!
https://goo.gl/photos/diMLTsni5tzUr7bx9

I made a heat shield from aluminium. Bolted it to the master cylinder and the chassis. Also heatwrapped the brake lines and brake reservoir, and put some DEI insulting fiberglass mats on the inside of the hood.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6c166aa9e.jpg
There's more in my build thread.

anyway, congrats on having it running!

Think it's alright to drive around on the street like this until I get a heat shield worked out? Couldn't get the tape to stick to the master cyl so I hacked up some of the leftover sleeving... not the prettiest but it's better than nothing.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ab91780c13.jpg

It will probably work. That's how I started with mine. However, after a couple of moderate street drives the temps for me were worrying enough to start making a shield. Just didn't want to take any chances.

edit: mind that I overengineered a lot of stuff on purpose.

Just remember you need an air gap for the shielding to be really effective. I could be wrong, but that reflective tape on the brake lines isn't very useful.

You can also put a 3/8" extension in the heater core hard line, and bend it away from the manifold. You'll have to disconnect the line for that though. Again, you want an air gap. If it's just resting on the manifold like it looks like, you'll introduce a lot of heat to the coolant at that spot.

I fear for that adjustment knob.

Could you get a TDR heat blanket to cover the trubo and/or mani, even loosely? Or cover your brake stuff with the heat blanket instead! :rofl:

Boost resource makes a blanket for the exducer, but that doesn't cover the header or the downpipe and is pretty pricey.

Curly - the heater tube has about an inch clearance from the downpipe, it's just the angle of the picture that makes it look like it's touching. Reflective tape on the brake lines aught to reflect the heat radiated by the exhaust (there's probably 3" between the downpipe and the closest brake line). Not as good as a heat shield, probably, which is definitely next on my list - I just can't wait to drive it any longer :giggle:

Did a bit longer test drive today after hooking up the EBC and knock sensor wiring. Knock sensor appears to do something... what's the threshold? Are there well-defined settings that MT recommends? I saw boost briefly in some spots. I'm guessing "boost duty" in my log is the duty cycle of the bypass valve? I have my target kPa set to 130kpa for the whole map (ie probably lower than wastegate pressure) but the boost duty doesn't seem to be 70% (max) in the brief areas where I'm above 130kpa. Is this normal behavior? Settings below..
Attachment 231741
Tune attached. And the log is below. It was way lean above 100kpa, which I only saw briefly. I've added a boatload of fuel for the next test drive.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ed85w0qzg8...56.59.msl?dl=0

You should be in open loop

Um, why?

So around 283s in this log it gets up to 9psi... it still doesn't look like the boost controller is doing anything? Anyone care to hazard a guess why?

Check output test mode to see if it is working.

The solenoid works (at least, I can hear it in test mode).
But if you look in the log, "boost duty" stays at zero until I let off the throttle, as if it's functioning as some sort of bypass valve. With my target set to 135kpa, shouldn't it be wide open at any MAP higher than 135kPa?

What's your bias table look like? You know, the one you tuned in open loop?

Stole them from the tune Andrew sent me of his shop car (same engine/turbo/etc), figuring that would at least get me in the ballpark. But I'll go dig through the "How to EBC" thread and try from scratch.
Still doesn't make sense to me that it doesn't do something over 135kpa.

Alright, so the EBC definitely works. I put it in open-loop and ran 0% and nothing terrible happened. Put it at 100% and it spiked to boost-cut (12psi) almost instantly. The idea that "more duty cycle" is "more boost" is backwards from Subaru world, and apparently was reversed some firmware versions ago.
So then the remaining question is this - what the heck is wastegate pressure on this thing? I saw 9psi at 3800rpm and 45% throttle and it was still climbing before I chickened out and let off. I believe I followed the EFR instructions for setting the preload, though I can certainly try again.

Edit: Yeah, was running like 6mm preload... backed it off to 2mm and we'll see what that gets me tomorrow. 92 degrees w/ 72 degree dew point... Not my favorite weather to be driving a car with no A/C. For anyone who reads through this, here's the appropriate documentation:
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...dd9f945bd7.jpg

The ingersoll rand 4 port solenoid I use for EBC came with the option for a muffler, which is a little cone shaped metal foam thing that screwed into one of the ports. It makes a sort of psh psh psh psh sound when it's working, but it's not obnoxious or anything.

Looked like this:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...eb95da335d.jpg

Finally grew a pair to go WOT. Looks like 2 turns preload - the minimum recommended - is good for ~9.5psi. Still running a hacked up exhaust that leaks like a sieve while I wait for my 3" system to get built, but it's something.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...25be569a1f.png

I'm running almost no timing because I'm not sure if the knock sensor is picking up anything valuable with all the exhaust rattling/vibration going on. Other than that, does anyone see anything concerning with this brief 3rd gear pull?

Yeah you're timing is severely retarded....... Be I mean it's retarded to run that little timing. Don't waste your time tuning anything with that little timing it'll all need retweaked. Keep in mind with timing retard you're pushing a lot of combustion out the exhaust valve. This is hard on valves and turbines, you may not knock but you'll tear up parts just as easy.

So what's a "safe" amount ? Is the MSPNP "turbo tuner" map a decent baseline, even though I'm running a bp6d? Looks like that would be around 15 degrees in the above screenshot.
MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b066836bca.png


Edit: the knock detection was also pulling 6 degrees. So I'll need to move that threshold up. Here's what my map looks like currently.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...05c4dbe925.png

Ignore

Any comments on the timing tables posted in #111?

I am not knowledgable enough to comment on that subject. Sorry.

But for whats its worth, here is what mine looks like. Although I haven't really played with it too much, only where I saw knock. So take it with a grain of salt.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c65978d991.png

#111 is very safe in boost, but could be problemtic in spool up.

Won't comment much on the boost cells, but I haven't seen any Miata motor make much naturally aspirated power past ~28* above ~5000. So that 97kpa row at 32.6 kinda bugs me.

Up to 100kpa is the same as the map I ran when N/A, which is what Reverent sent with the MS3 for the most part. Didn't hear any knock in the cans when we put it on the dyno N/A. Not at all opposed to dialing it back, though it did make good power before.

I haven't knocked even above 30 degrees either, but I usually don't make more power above ~28. Maybe a hp or even 2(!), but N/A Miatas aren't exactly dyno queens...

Well it's been quiet for the last 6 weeks because I've been waiting for the catback to show up. Hooray, it finally arrived!!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a14f5aee23.jpg


Fuck. Why aren't all 3" flanges the same size!?!?!
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4fa9711ed.jpg

Gotta go buy a die grinder now I guess. Bah.

Looks like the TSE flange isn't even flat. Off to the exhaust shop. Ordered this shit so I wouldn't have to find a slot and drive a car with no exhaust an hour away to the only exhaust shop I trust. Should have just gone there 2 months ago and been done with it.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...81e5e39901.jpg