Hey everyone.
I got a leaking begi downpipe. Its their downpipe that comes with Begi-s kit. The problem is with it being two-piece. It seems like the design of the slip type connection is not very good. I pushed it all the way in and tightened the "long bolt", but its still leaking like crazy. I am thinking its messing up my wideband reading. Does anyone else have this same problem with the DP leak?

I was thinking maybe exhaust clamp would help but i am not sure.

I was thinking maybe using something like this?



This one looks really serious

 

The last band in your post is a vband and can't be used for this connection. The others would work fine as long as you have clearance for it.
You should also call BEGI and see what they say.

 

ah, yeah it did look familiar. I will call them for sure.

Thanks.

 

I dont even use anything [the long bolt] to hold the pipes together. Once it heats up they'll seal from thermal expansion. make sure the are really pushed together to the ends of the joint.

 

Stephanie told me to just use a standard exhaust clamp on mine.

 

What kind did you use?


i noticed that. When the car heats up it certainly get much better. Today i decided to push the pipes more together and now it leaks even more.

A little off topic.

When working on the dp, i noticed i have a huge coolant leak! Its coming from the back of the engine. I checked the thermostat in the back of the engine and its dry. The wettest place is right under the washer fluid reservoir. it looks like the coolant gets sprayed there from somewhere not just leaking, because i dont understand how it would make it all the way to where the washer fluid tank is. However there is enough leaking that the tranny is wet and it dripped on the floor.

Any ideas?

 

+1

After some god awful rattling when the piece finally came loose, I put an exhaust U clamp like this one on. Worked so far for 4k miles.

JEGS Exhaust U-Clamps - JEGS

 

Remember that a standard u-clamp will crush the pipes together and increase difficulty when trying to separate them.

 

I was thinking about that. Should i slice the down pipe in a couple of places so its easier to remove it later?

 

Just don't tighten the uclamp down so much it crushes the pipe severely.
You can always use brute force to separate it, not that big a deal.

 

or heat, i guess.

 

use a band clamp, the things are awesome.



coolant leaks are easy, idle the car, as the pressure increases the leak will show itself.

 

Should i try that UV additive that they sell at NAPA and Autozone?

 

If its regular green antifreeze, it is florescent already. Just need a blacklight, and it will show up easily.

Ron

 

It look for wet streams of water.

 

i'd go ahead and use the clamp in the first picture, that's what i used, twice on the miata and twice on my truck, no issues. i really don't like the u clamps either.

 

Good to know. I will get a black light today to check.
This might sound like a stupid question (90% of mine are stupid), if it was my head gasket leaking would the car probably have white smoke coming out of the tail pipe, right?
The leak is for sure somewhere near the CAS. Its squirting the coolant right under the washer fluid tank.

I saw one at Napa yesterday. I did not get it because it looked strange when unwrapped but i think i will go back and get it anyway.
Is it possible though that the leak is messing up my WB readings? Or if it does it not significant?

 

it will mess up WB readings.

 

Will it make it read richer or leaner? I would think leaner because some of the exhaust gases escape before hitting the WB, right?

 

yeah, when I used a u-clamp on my setup, and i hit manhole cover and it disconnected my exhaust, my readings went crazy lean. :P