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BEGi-S downpipe problem

 
Old 07-07-2008, 12:07 AM
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Arrow BEGi-S downpipe problem

a couple problems trying to install this downpipe, first problem, cant get the damn thing bolted up the turbo, (seems to be hitting every part of the body) 2nd problem, the exit flange does NOT mate up the the catalytic converter (bolt holes are WAY off). So basically I am screwed, I either have to have a test pipe made up, or have someone re-weld the flange on the downpipe, that is...IF I ever get it on.

any one else have problems? or suggestions..

..this is the upgraded stainless non seperate gases downpipe on a 1994.
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Old 07-07-2008, 01:56 AM
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Merlin,the best thing to do is put your car back to stock and send the DP back to bell,there's no point in trying to make it fit,just get them to send you a new one.

.....I hope you can have it together before the meet.
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Old 07-07-2008, 08:14 AM
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Had the exact same problem on my S kit but with the base downpipe. Called Corky and he said they'd fix it no problem.


PS. your name is Merlin? or is that some kind of nickname? The only Merlin I know of could fix that dp with a wave of his wand. Get on it.
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Old 07-07-2008, 08:56 AM
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well its a little late to return to stock, hopefully Bell can do something about this.
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:02 AM
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Of course they can do something about this, its their pipe. Dont worry, all you will lose is some time and you'll have a pipe that works
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Old 07-07-2008, 11:19 AM
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well, I miraculously got the front part of the pipe on, but I only have 1, maybe 2 threads showing on the studs, anyone else run into this, in the pictures on their website, of the downpipe going on to the studs, 'they' look too short aswell.
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Old 07-07-2008, 11:26 AM
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BEGI has shipped that DP with the wrong length studs before. You'll need to source different ones. The BEGI-S uses a much thicker flange than their other DP.
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Old 07-07-2008, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTalon View Post
well, I miraculously got the front part of the pipe on, but I only have 1, maybe 2 threads showing on the studs, anyone else run into this, in the pictures on their website, of the downpipe going on to the studs, 'they' look too short aswell.
Get longer studs, 45mm I believe.
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:25 AM
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Yeah my flange for the cat was way too big. I took it as the perfect time to upgrade to a larger more free flowing cat...Plus I was tired of all the down time....
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TurboTalon View Post
a couple problems trying to install this downpipe, first problem, cant get the damn thing bolted up the turbo, (seems to be hitting every part of the body) 2nd problem, the exit flange does NOT mate up the the catalytic converter (bolt holes are WAY off). So basically I am screwed, I either have to have a test pipe made up, or have someone re-weld the flange on the downpipe, that is...IF I ever get it on.

any one else have problems? or suggestions..

..this is the upgraded stainless non seperate gases downpipe on a 1994.
You'll get there, man... But remember, even though you're installing a kit which is supposed to "drop" in, you're still making a significant modification to your car by turbo'ing it. Another thing to remember: our cars vary dimensionally from one car to another, and sometimes a lot. So even if your parts are fabbed to nominal dimensions, it's normal to expect some variation in fitment. Therefore, it's normal to expect that you'll have to cut studs to length, massage some sheetmetal in the engine bay, grind a little here and there, maybe show the car some hammer-time, etc. And if it's WAY off, Bell will handle it. Yeah, it sucks to ship parts back and forth and yeah it sucks to be non-op for a while but remember what you're doing to your car; this isn't a timing belt change-out or a new clutch install...
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by chucker View Post
You'll get there, man... But remember, even though you're installing a kit which is supposed to "drop" in, you're still making a significant modification to your car by turbo'ing it. Another thing to remember: our cars vary dimensionally from one car to another, and sometimes a lot. So even if your parts are fabbed to nominal dimensions, it's normal to expect some variation in fitment. Therefore, it's normal to expect that you'll have to cut studs to length, massage some sheetmetal in the engine bay, grind a little here and there, maybe show the car some hammer-time, etc. And if it's WAY off, Bell will handle it. Yeah, it sucks to ship parts back and forth and yeah it sucks to be non-op for a while but remember what you're doing to your car; this isn't a timing belt change-out or a new clutch install...
good stuff thanks
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