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Old 08-13-2007, 04:38 PM   #1
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Default Bipes Settings

Curious to see what everyone else is running on their greddy setup. Just rebuilt my motor and would like to adjust my settings as I never did when I installed the intercooler a few months back. My main question is retard on Air Temp Retard in Florida and what it should be set to???

Settings (format)
Fuel: 93 octane
Engine: 1.6L
Boost: 5-5.5psi
Intercooler: Yes
Base Timing: 12 degrees
Air Flow Retard: 6 degrees
Air Temp Retard: 1 degree for every 30 degrees C
RPM Map: 2500(start)-3800(full)

I think my setting are very conservative as they're all pretty much recomended. So this is what I would like to run comments on this would be greatly apprecated.

Settings (format)
Fuel: 93 octane
Engine: 1.6L
Boost: 5-5.5psi
Intercooler: Yes
Base Timing: 16 degrees
Air Flow Retard: 6 degrees
Air Temp Retard: 1 degree for every 50 degrees C
RPM Map: 3000(start)-4000(full)

**also wanted to know anyone else usally show an led at idle? I have it sometimes and other times I don't.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:09 AM   #2
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I wouldn't up the base timing that far... not a lot of gain for potential issues. What I've always been told and what everybody else I ever asked says is 14* is the max base timing to be safe.

Otherwise, I use the same settings you do but pull 8*... and I'm running 10-12psi and just last week ran in 100*F+ temps with no knock. I'm sure at the low boost you're running, even in Florida heat, you shouldn't have to pull more than the 6* you're at now.

So, bump the timing up to 14* and pull 6* total... see how that works. Drive it for a week or so and see if you get any knock. If not, slack it off to 4*... but I'm pretty sure you'll here some then.

A bigger question should be: Why aren't you running more boost?
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:25 AM   #3
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I ran mine on 14* base and pulled just 4* (5 psi, water injection onset @ 3 psi, Georgia).

The LED at idle, I was told, means the unit is pulling 2 degrees (assuming the display is showing degrees in your case) already. Most likely it's temp related, mine would show an LED lit if I had just run in somewhere and the IAT was hot, vs. no LED on a cool morning.
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:26 AM   #4
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Sam - he's probably running such low boost because he hasn't upgraded fuel bits yet. You are in Greddy chat, after all :P
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:47 AM   #5
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^ I know man, that's why I asked... just trying to put ideas in his head. Some injectors and a fuel pump and he could run 12psi. Don't forget the clutch!
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:54 AM   #6
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With an intercooler and 5 psi, you might not have to pull any timing from stock, except *maybe* on the hottest days.

So if you advanced timing, but had the bipes put it back to stock with boost + some air temp compensation, you should be good. I like your bottom settings with the more agressive air temp retard you had up top.

**disclaimer**
a I've never owned a bipes
b You blow your **** up = your fault
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Old 08-14-2007, 10:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
I wouldn't up the base timing that far... not a lot of gain for potential issues. What I've always been told and what everybody else I ever asked says is 14* is the max base timing to be safe.

Otherwise, I use the same settings you do but pull 8*... and I'm running 10-12psi and just last week ran in 100*F+ temps with no knock. I'm sure at the low boost you're running, even in Florida heat, you shouldn't have to pull more than the 6* you're at now.

So, bump the timing up to 14* and pull 6* total... see how that works. Drive it for a week or so and see if you get any knock. If not, slack it off to 4*... but I'm pretty sure you'll here some then.

A bigger question should be: Why aren't you running more boost?
Sounds like a good start and I think I saw that suggested in another post at one time. I'm going to adjust everything tonight hopefully. Which RPM map are you running?

I haven't uped the boost due to the "fuel bits" & the fact I want to see actual A/F when messing with it. I wish someone else in the area had a greddy setup on there miata to test drive and compair. When I first got the kit it was such a difference and I'm not sure if I'm just used to it now or the car seems sluggish. I just put another motor in it and seems to be about the same as the old one. Guess thats another reason why; feel something is still not right so don't want to make it worse if so. If I do I wanted to do it right with a Wideband, Adjustable FPR, Pump, and Injectors but i can't seem to laydown $200.00+ for a gauge and wideband sensor. Seems expensive for what it actually is; like every other electronic that's new to the market.

Anyone gone the Fuel Pump, Injectors, Recalibration Disk route? I have a buddy who can get me dyno time for cheap so I could see the o2 readings with the exhaust clamp.

I know it's a little off subject to my thread but do any of you know if the stock greddy setup runs rich. Think maybe thats what I'm feeling; makes the car seem kinda groggy instead of crisp and super rev responsive.

**also I'm running 1.8L ACT Streetlight Flywheel and 1.8L ACT Street Clutch so sould be good in that area.
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Old 08-14-2007, 12:52 PM   #8
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Dan,

Your set-up is very similar to mine before I added all of my fuel bandaids. [Walbro, 1.8 injectors, O2 Clamp, FPR re-calibration, etc...]

Before I did all of this I was running about 5-6 psi with the intercooler. My settings were as follows with no problems and no pinging in the hot Alabama summer:

Base timing: 12-14 degrees
Bipes pulling 1 degree of timing for every 65 degrees F
Bipes pulling 4 degrees of timing based on RPM
Start pulling timing at 3000rpm through 4000rpm

I believe those [With the exception of pulling degrees for temperature] are the most aggressive Bipes settings. [IE: the Bipes can't pull any less timing at any higher RPM than that.]

Keep in mind that the Bipes unit will actually start adding timing back in after the last RPM setting in the range. I'm not sure why. I have had mine on the dyno several times and have actually witnessed this happening.

I actually wish that you could move the timing pull up more than the highest setting of 3000-4000, because like I say it starts adding it back in afterwards and I really need most of my timing pull to be right at 5000rpm. Right now I would like to dyno mine pullling 6-7 degrees from 4000rpm to 5000rpm.

Anyway... I think if you go with the above settings [About 4 paragraphs up] you will be fine [I ran mine like this for over a year on a 150k engine] and you will have great driveability like I have always had with my car. A lot of guys post on here and complain about the Greddy turbo kit and it's poor driveability, but the two key things are the intercooler and the bipes, and then you don't have to retard you base timing to some ridiculous 6 degrees.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-14-2007, 02:24 PM   #9
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It's not the Bipes adding the timing back in, it's the ECU. Timing advances with RPM because flame travel is a constant. In order to get maximum pressure on the power stroke you have to light the fire earlier.
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Old 08-14-2007, 02:31 PM   #10
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http://frontiernet.net/~bipesauto/Bi...20Page%201.htm

The first graph shows how the Bipes starts adding timing back in past 5000rpms. It isn't actually adding timing beyond the base timing though, its just giving back some of the timing that it took out.
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Old 08-14-2007, 02:58 PM   #11
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I stand corrected.
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Old 08-14-2007, 06:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danscreations View Post
...When I first got the kit it was such a difference and I'm not sure if I'm just used to it now or the car seems sluggish. I just put another motor in it and seems to be about the same as the old one. Guess thats another reason why; feel something is still not right so don't want to make it worse if so. If I do I wanted to do it right with a Wideband, Adjustable FPR, Pump, and Injectors but i can't seem to laydown $200.00+ for a gauge and wideband sensor. Seems expensive for what it actually is; like every other electronic that's new to the market.

Anyone gone the Fuel Pump, Injectors, Recalibration Disk route? I have a buddy who can get me dyno time for cheap so I could see the o2 readings with the exhaust clamp...
This is why I have always thought it was a good Idea to have a baseline dyno of your car before you do anything to it. You can tune your car optimally at first and it also ensures [Along with various other benchmarks, such as a compression test, leakdown test, etc...] that your car is running right initially.

I never planned on constantly tuning and screwing with my car so I have never felt the need like some people to buy a wide band. Although I have made some errors in preparation to go to the dyno, basically I have gone 3 times at a cost of $60 each time. Once to do some NA tuning and a base line dyno. The second time right after I installed the dyno. The third time was a total screw up on my part and I wasn't prepared to go and left without accomplishing anything. The fourth time I was also unprepared [Because it was a spur of the moment deal.], but I at least had all the right goodies in place to make the power I was looking for. I plan to go one more time after the new clutch is broken in, the downpipe is in, an adjustable valve is installed on my Vortech, and I have my Home Depot helper spring. I will have everything I need to adjust everything I can and have a well thought out game plan for any eventuality. Hopefully I can leave with over 200rwhp this next time.

I think if you have a stand alone ECU or a piggyback ECU than I think you need a wideband, but if you are tuning using the Vortech, some recalibration disk, a Bipes, etc... Well then you just need to go to the dyno prepared with extra disk and a game plan and you will be able to get the most out of your car with a minimal amount of runs.
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