Ok, here is the revised map. I remapped the rpm row; however, I didn't change the kpa column.

Any more advice would be much appreciated!


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That’ll do for now, try a 3rd gear log and plug it into VD.

 

Sounds good, I'll do a few pulls and report back.

 

Ok, I did a few pulls after getting the fueling in check. Here was roughly the most accurate one I believe.



Roughly how much more psi can I realistically push? What would be a safe WHP range? I've heard roughly around 220 is the way to go, especially since it gives leniency when the temperature gets colder. (I'm in Texas) How would I go about making sure that it'll be safe in the winter and in the summer?

 

Attach the tune and the logs

 

Here is the log and the tune.

My boost duty is at around 28% right now, because I was upping the boost. It gave me about 8.5psi. Weird because with 10 degree for all values above 100kpa at 28% duty, I ran 10.5 psi, so I'm not sure why it changed.

 

As you increase efficiency of your motor, you’ll see boost pressure go down. That’s a good thing. Go back to 10*, and you’ll probably see 10.5psi again.

 

Gotcha, other than that how are things looking in your opinion? And just out of pure curiosity why is that the case?

 

What is this, boost for ants? Boost duty in the log was 0%. Increase to 36% and take another log. Fueling looked awesome, rest of the tune looks good too, only stuff I'd change relates to drivability.

You're also really close to your overboost protection. It's set at 177, but a hysteresis of 15, so it'll kick in as low as 152, or 7.5psi, and you're already at 141, so turn that up to 200kpa before turning boost duty up. I've done 4-5 dyno pulls making 300hp on a bone stock '99, if you briefly touch over 220hp in your ventures, it won't immediately blow up, promise.

We were doing 6-8psi turbo setups for YEARS on piggybacks, EV1 injectors, and rising rate fuel pressure regulators back in....2005?

Please note, I typically boost nice Miatas. So if yours is a 280k un-maintained shitbox on the stock clutch, stock suspension/brakes, and original timing belt, maybe don't turn it up. But everything I'm seeing in the log looks good, and good condition stock miatas can handle everything I'm suggesting.

 

Hahaha yeah, that was a log from just wastegate pressure. PSI duty is now at 28% so boost is at 8.5 with virtual dyno saying I’m making 200hp. I’m planning to go to roughly 10psi and that should shoot me in the 220-230who range.

Don’t worry the car is in pretty good condition. 78k miles, maintenance is well kept up just trying to be precautious. I’ll post the tune, log, and VD results for the 200hp one.

I’ll do another pull tonight at 10psi and report back

 

8.5psi, 28% duty

 

What would you change about drivability?

 

Oh some idle timing, idle VE looks a bit far from idle region of main fuel table, and idle RPM is lower than I run it. It's usually smoother around 950 vs. 800.

 

Oh really? I’ll give it a try running it around 900-950. Are you saying that my fueling on my VE map is different from my idle VE table, or what is it? What timing do you usually run for idling?

 

Here is where I'm sitting at, roughly 220 whp at about 10 psi. I've attached the log, tune, and photo of the VD results.




I think this is a good level of boost and power to leave it at, so in the colder months when the turbo is making more power, I have some leeway in order to not have to worry about knock or excessive amounts of hp. For now, I am just going to focus on getting the boost duty table locked in, maybe switching to closed loop boost control, fine-tuning my VE table, and working on drivability (ie, higher idle, better hot and cold start-ups)

Thoughts?

Side note: The car is fast for sure, but maybe if I can muster up the money, I'll do a forged build in the upcoming years... I mean, this isn't supposed to be boost for ants...

 

@curly Thank you for providing so much feedback in this thread. Helped me double check and feel better about my tune.
@Salva I went through the same experience as you and your map is getting closer and closer to mine with each iteration. FYI yours is still more conservative and I'm on stock 10:1 compression with 91 octane, so don't be afraid to go even further.

 

You're welcome. One day I'll spend a bunch of time on the dyno focusing on nothing but ignition timing and see if I can verify/perfect my suggestions, but it's been a great starting place for me over the years.