ok, so with track days in the future (streets of willow, etc) and maybe some local autox i would like to upgrade my bone stock 1.6L brakes.

with this in mind what are my options.... im currently running 14x6.5 bbs basketweave wheels.... not sure on going 15" yet.

im looking for something moderately priced. my friend with axis ultimate pads recently went to the track and complained about fading on his 1.6L brakes with axis pads + brembo slotted rotors in the front with steel lines.

would upgrading to 1.8L brakes b a moderately priced option ? if i went 1.8L brakes should i even buy the rotors or go with some slotted ones and some performance pads ? maybe even do stainless steel lines all around ?

my local junkyard has 1.8L brakes readily available, which is why im leaning toward that option, but would like to know what im getting into.

thanks for your advice beforehand.

Scott

 

what are basketweave wheels? are they the bbs? if so they are worth $$ to some people. As for your question, I have a 90 and a 97 and the 97 with bigger brakes seems to stop a lot better. However Ive only autocrossed my 97 and it had no problems with braking, but i wasnt pushing it too hard either.

 

some people refer to them as mesh wheels. i think they are off an old bmw 2002 or something. 14X6.5 +30 and they weigh like 9.5lbs without tire. ilove them to death. and i got them pretty cheap.

 

i switched to a complete 1.8 setup with axxis ultimates, much better than stock for me. some people will say there's no difference, but i like them

 

majorly worth it.

 

The only catch....

Use 1.8 brakes from a 94->00 .... none of the 01+ cars with the "big" brakes will fit under a 15.... and only some 15's at that. I'm pretty sure I'd need spacers with the 15" panasports. <G>

Otherwise, it's well documented, and definately a good upgrade..... The rears on a 1.8 are the same size as the fronts on a 1.6 IIRC.

Dave,

 

Agreed, upgrading to the 1.8 brakes is a big improvement when talking about a track application.
Most guys say they can have a little better modulation and slight increase in overall bite, but the biggest increase is in the longevity.
Larger rotors and pads dissipate heat better. It's rare that you ever get them that hot for that long on the street, which is why some guys say they don't get why it's such a big deal.

A good place to start would be a simple upgrade to better pads, Porterfield/Hawk/EBC/Axis and a few others have dedicated followers.
I found a slightly better modulation when I went to Goodridge steel lines, but also got major relief that my 120k mile stock ones would no longer haunt my corner entry.

If you have access to a cheap 1.8 brake upgrade via a junkyard, it's really a no brainer. You can use the rotors and pads off the junker and upgrade as budget permits. A new set of rotors/pads/lines will run you anywhere from $350 for decent stuff up to $600 for ultimate ***** extension.

When you do the install, clean the new calipers real good and paint them black with some caliper paint... looks great.

 

I gotta say though... I have the new-er goodwin kit (requires 15's) and it is unBELIEVABLE on the track. Even without the turbo. I was able to hang with much more powerful cars with just suspension and brakes. like WRX on track tires, turbo miatas, etc.

 

hey, thanks a bunch for all the helpful info guys. i think i may just go with the 1.8L brakes in the meantime until i get enough dough to do pads, rotors and stuff.

 

go for the cheapest rotors possible, infact don't bother with new ones if you dont need them. spend the dough on the pads, that's the money maker.

 

roger ! thanks again

 

so you dont think a slotted rotor would provide enough benefit to make it worth its while on a budget? (forget drilled ive heard of too many cracking)

 

no. less surface area, not enough "cooling"

 

debate exists there. cutting grooves into it gives it more surface area but slightly reduces the mass. improves overall heat transfer but reduces overall thermal capacity.

 

It gives it more surface area, but takes away from the useable surface area.

how are you going to get the pad into the grooves?

 

Slotted rotors are a waste of money, I fell for that BS the last go round. I took them off and installed 11" f / 10.9" r smooth face rotors. Much better grip. They fit fine with my 15" wheels. I have yet to decide on which proportioning valve I am going to use, but that is another issue.

KMag

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-93...spagenameZWDVW

I was going to do this kit with stainless brake lines, what do you guys think?

oh yea street application

 

Ok, obviosly you learned how to use the search function, now if we can just get you to read what you find you will be set.

 

Well a$$(meant in the nicest way), I thought that was with people who used them on the track!

 

You should only pay $20 or $30 for a pair of 'flat' rotors at NAPA, and they'd probably be fine even for the track. When they're worn out, don't bother getting them turned, just buy a new set.
www.planetmiata.com has a good brake deal. I think it was $99 for rotors and pads for the front and back (so $198 total). They came with hawk hps pads, which I've had absolutely no fade from at the track; before and after I put on FM stainless steel lines (which have nothing to do with fade, only pedal feel).

BTW, I'm running 1.8 brakes on my 1993 miata, all you need from the junk yard (if you're getting new pads and rotors) are the caliper brakes, your 1.6 calipers will still be used, just spaced farther out.