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Old 09-06-2006, 10:49 PM   #1
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Default burning oil at idle?????

ok well as it sayd when i come to a light after everything is warm the car will start to blow smoke out the exhaust. if i give it a hair of gas the oil burning goes away. anyone have an idea what it is from? should i just turn up my idle to make it go away????
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Old 09-06-2006, 10:53 PM   #2
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hows your oil return lookin?

How do you have your crankcase breather line routed?
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Old 09-07-2006, 12:23 AM   #3
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sounds like a valve job
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:05 AM   #4
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i have a breather filter on the crankcase breather. so no hose running from that. how can i tell if its my valves and why would it just happen that quick???? it started immediately after installing the turbo. a used greddy kit.
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Old 09-07-2006, 08:59 AM   #5
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Just for ***** and giggles, try routing a proper crankcase breather line before you look into a valve job. Costs pennies on the dollar, and will take you 10-15 minutes if you haven't already drilled and tapped a hole in the turbo inlet intake elbow somewhere.
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Old 09-07-2006, 09:44 AM   #6
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Only for ***** and giggles.
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Old 09-07-2006, 09:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bripab007 View Post
Just for ***** and giggles, try routing a proper crankcase breather line before you look into a valve job. Costs pennies on the dollar, and will take you 10-15 minutes if you haven't already drilled and tapped a hole in the turbo inlet intake elbow somewhere.
+1

Just some thoughts.

But if that doesn't solve the problem, make sure there is not too much oil reaching the turbo and that the oil drain is clear(and downhill all the way if original style).

Could be turbo seal on turbine side leaking into exhaust when almost no back pressure present.
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Old 09-07-2006, 11:47 AM   #8
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im thinking its the turbine seals. how much does it cost to have the turbo rebuilt????? or were can i get a rebuild kit????
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Old 09-07-2006, 12:10 PM   #9
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You have three of the greatest minds on earth leading you towards one direction.

Before you go ripping apart you engine bay and spending money on a rebuild do so simple things first. Even after a rebuild you'll experience the same problem if you don't fix these few tiny little things.

The crankcase breather line should be routed into the intake. It plays an important role in oil drainage. Don't belive me? run a hose into the crankcase breather line and disconnect the oil drain line form the turbo. Blow into the crankcase hose and watch oil dump out the top of your return line. Suck out of the line and watch the oil disappear. Plus a crankcase breather filter allows unmetered air to enter/exit the engine at will.

If you are using the stock GReddy return line you have to be extremely carefull there is no uphill travel and minimal horizontal travel. The oil return is gravity and vacuum based. Meaning if the oil cannot flow out of the line fast enough, chances are it's backing up into thte turbo and burning off. That's why a lot of guys opt for tapping the pan and only using 18" of veritcal drain hose.

The stock GReddy kit usually uses a -3an line, which shouldn't supply too much oil. BUT, if it is supplying too much, then you'll fill your bearing housing faster than it can drain and oil will burn off. Most people do not have this problem on a the stock GReddy lines, but I'd invest in a $10 restrictor before tearing apart the turbo.

If all three of these things (and about $20) do not lead to a happier turbo, then consider a rebuild. Which can be done yourself for around $70-80.

How long have you had you setup installed? How long has this been happening? What color is the smoke?
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Old 09-07-2006, 01:49 PM   #10
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Sorry to chime in but it's bad or "worse" to have my crankcase breather open with a filter than it is to have it conected to the intake like a stock greddy kit??? If so why do I see a lot of peope with this done?
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Old 09-07-2006, 02:08 PM   #11
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It's "bad" to have it vented to atmosphere with a filter because it hinders turbo oil drainage as well as piston ring sealing (why do you think every manufacturer of modern cars routes it to constant vacuum?), which can cause smoking and decrease turbo life as well as engine performance from the rings not sealing as well.

You see a lot of people do this because they're lazy or don't know any better or think another mini air filter looks cool....or all three.
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:19 PM   #12
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ok here is a question should it be routed to before the turbo or after ? in the stock location because i have no piping before....danmit i will have to make some if thats were it needs to be.....
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:29 PM   #13
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So, wait, are you saying it's currently routed to the stock location, meaning the plastic crossover tube, just before the throttle body and above the stock resonator box?

If so, that's your problem right there, not burned valves or blown turbo seals.

Think about the stock location: it always sees vacuum, more vacuum the more the throttle is opened. You want to mimic that setup, so you want to re-route that to the turbo inlet so it always sees vacuum.
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Old 09-07-2006, 03:29 PM   #14
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before the turbo, so it only sees vacuum.

Do you just have an air filter on the turbo? If so you can get those handy dandy vacuum fittings for silicone (although they may be too small).

Or buy a small section of 2.5" straight, get a 1/8" fitting, drill and tap it in, clamp it on the turbo and filter on to that.
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:47 PM   #15
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no im saying i dont have it hooked up at all. ok well i will try to find what i need to hook it up and see if it fixes anything.....
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:44 PM   #16
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any new? im having the same problem...
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Old 09-12-2006, 08:28 PM   #17
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I started burning oil resently as well. It all started on the track when my pcv valve failed. This lead to large amounts of oil being plumbed into my intake. I got a replacement that evening, however the smoking has yet to cease completely. It will dump a little blue/white smoke when I go WOT and when I let off, as well as smoke a tiny bit out the exhaust and around the turbo at idle.

I cleaned out my IC and gave it a treatment of Seafoam, so it's worse a idle at the moment (maybe 45mins of idle is all I've done so far). I'm hoping the current smoke (more whiter) is the remainder of the gunk burning off. (Catch can on it's way as well just incase it is blow-by)

If that doesn't cure it, I'm going to look into the drain line (I have a restrictor). If that doesn't cure it I'm going to be running a compression check and leakdown test. It could be the rings.

If those look good it may be the new test pipe. This might be causing a low backpressure condition thats allowing oil past the seals of the turbo. If just replacing that (doing it anyways soon) doesn't cure it, I'm looking at a rebuild.

On a lighter note, wideband, gauge, and EBC installed.
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:33 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
On a lighter note, wideband, gauge, and EBC installed.
Tracking down issues and adding goodies never ends. I feel your pain.

FWIW, I run my crankcase breather to just an air filter and haven't had any problems with burning oil even with the old around the engine stock GReddy oil drain, BUT it is the better and right way to do it as everyone says so even though I haven't had any issues, plans are in the works to do it right.
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:46 PM   #19
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It's always been ok before the PCV valve failed, so I assume just unburned oil in the pipes and stuff.
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:56 PM   #20
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i just turned up my idle from the idle control screw at the throttle body up to about 950 to 1k. the smoke has now ceased.... except for the smoke i see when my bumper is melting away.....
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