thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Then the compressor housing came off:
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thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

Ben, you may be able to just grab the C-clip with the pliers and turn the housing without taking it off completely, if not to get that c-clip off i had a second hand help me pry it with a flay head, worked much better and easier than by myself.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Honestly if the housing needs to come off I won't be sad. My spare turbo has a polished comp housing I'll put on in its place. Underhood bling FTW.

Thanks for the pics tho. Perfect for a how-to guide.

olderguy

iTrader: (19)

I clocked mine down when I first installed it, but couldn't get past the P/S and A/C very well. Ended up going back, then out of the engine compartment and forward with 2" all the way. It runs out of steam at the top end and drops from 15psi to 12psi at the manifold(which I blame on the extensive pipe length).

It clocked initially on the car with a lot of force and no release of the snap ring. It will still move after 55K miles as I decided to tap the pan and needed to change the angle slightly.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I don't have P/S, so there's a bit more room for me to work with.

Mine also won't hold to redline, but I'm pretty confident it's due to the WG actuator. No way your piping is longer than my former under the rad set up.

thesnowboarder

iTrader: (15)

It doesn't have to come off, but if you happen to remove the snap ring it will be free and come off. If your wanting to keep it on the car why not loosed the snap ring and just rotate the housing to desired position? A dead blow hammer may be needed to break it loose as others have mentioned.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I just got done clocking the bitch. The snap ring pliers were a waste of money. The greddy oil drain does interfere with the relocated compressor outlet, so it had to be changed out. I happen to have a tunertoys oil drain flange, so I went with that. Getting to the bolts on the oil drain were a bitch, but then I got the wise idea of removing that clamp thing and rotating the CHRA 90° towards me, put on the tunertoys drain flange, and put the CHRA back in its correct orientation.

I broke both of my small harbor freight hammers in the process.

Tomorrow I need to drill a couple holes in my new wg actuator bracket and re-install the turbine heat shield. And then hopefully it's done.
I'd have gone further tonight, but my drill's batts are both dead. Plus it's raining anyway.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

mmkay, well it should be done. doesn't look like I have any oil leaks at the top or bottom of the CHRA, which I was worried about. I had assumed that there should be a washer on each side of the oil feed fitting, but I didn't see a washer between the feed and the CHRA. There was one between the top of the feed and the bottom of the banjo bolt's head. It's possible that the bottom washer got lost on disassembly, so I added a new one. I suppose it was the correct call.

I did have to clock the CHRA again, just maybe a degree or two beyond true vertical oil ports, to give clearance between the exh manifold and oil drain hose. I doubt it will matter as far as ability to drain. While I'm on that subject, I'm no longer happy with the around the motor drain, so I need to go ahead and tap the pan. I went to Home Depot, but they didn't have a correct bit or a tap.... I'm assuming that the fitting I got from tunertoys is 1/2" NPT, which actually I need to make sure.

The air cleaner lines up pretty much directly underneath the "gill" on my hood, so hopefully I get some better intake temps, even before I build an iso box.

Somehow in the work, I lost EBC. With the solenoid connected I get boost straight to overboost shutdown. Don't know what's up with that, so for now it's just running standard WG boost which looks like 6 psi from foot down all the way to 7k.

I'll share a pic or two after I get the mess from Friday's radiator incident completely cleaned up.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

I won't have a chance to clean it up until Sunday, but I wanted to go ahead and post a pic I snapped. Cruising temps are definitely down. Don't know about peak temps b/c of EBC failure, but assume it's going to do better. One of the upcoming projects is a filter isolation box. The filter is one of the nifty K&N jobs with the open velocity stack lookin thing on the end. I didn't have any 3" clamps so, we did a little "double clamp" magic to get the filter on.
Sunday I should be able to get everything cleaned up and de-ghettofied.

devin mac

iTrader: (2)

nice. did you ever get around to drilling/tapping the pan? i have the bit and tap i can send to you for a loan if you want them. 1/2NPT

edit: by the second, pic it doesn't look like you did. offer's on the table.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

no, I have not tapped the pan yet, and do now have a minimal amount of oil consumption. have not been able to locate the tap locally, except for at harbor freight. and theirs looked really cheesy. thanks for the offer; I'm going to PM you my address.

Ben

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

I have a tap as well. I'm flying out of town this evening, but you're welcome to stop by my house today (working from home today) to pick up if you like.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Damn, that would be perfect, but I'm at work until 6 and have a meeting afterwards. Think you could drop it by the post office so I can get it tomorrow--to use on Sunday? I'll take you to lunch next time I see you.

Atlanta93LE

iTrader: (5)

If you get a lunch break, I can meet you somewhere. Last time I mailed something across town in took 2 days.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

That works great. I'm really hungry and ready to go ASAP.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Clocking down, and running tubing past the PS is a bit tight but doable. I just did mine.

2 inch pipe is a must otherwise it will never fit.

Harv

iTrader: (4)

Wow, your engine compartment looks terrific! Like I could eat off it!

Man, mine sucks. :(

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Yeah Brian's car is super clean.

I got a tap from Atl93. Thanks!!

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Now that you settled your question. I have a question concerning sbrian2's picture.

Do you guys leave the underbody plastics off after going turbo or do you put em back? How do you deal with rocks and road related crap if you dont put it back.

I dont know if they are worth keeping, might require some trimming at the most.

devin mac

iTrader: (2)

i never got around to putting mine back on last fall... no real ill effect so far that i know of...