My son and I installed our BEGi S-2 turbo kit last weekend. Essentially everything’s in place, and ready to boost, but we haven’t installed the boost gauge or Innovate G-5 gage and wideband, nor have we received the Zoom3, and so we won’t know whether or not we’ve been successful until then.

I won’t repeat the numerous assembly threads; primarily because I’m lazy but also because it’s already been done by others far better than I’m capable of, but I will share a few tricks we learned.

One of the first problems I noticed while going through the twenty or so bags of parts from BEGi is that the 37/64th inch drill supplied by BEGI to drill the oil pan for the turbo oil return line fitting is a no-go on my 3/8” Milwaukee. The 37/64th inch drill size supplied by BEGi is perfect; it makes the smallest hole the thread tap will fit into, and so allows you the best chance of tapping a good hole for the fitting, but it’s also nearly impossible to find in a reduced shank model. Fortunately, the steel the bit is made from is reasonably soft and I was able to turn and cut the shank without much drama on my mini-lathe.

 

One thing that bothered me about the BEGi kit was the way the heat wrapping looked when it was baling wired onto the heater core hoses. To improve the appearance I used the heat wrapping supplied, but without the baling wire, and held the wrapping in place with 1-1/2 inch diameter flexible aluminum heat riser tubing. The riser tubing I used has what looks like a thin Mylar coating, which might or might not burn off, but it sure looks good now and for around four bucks there’s not much risk.

 

Good ideas!

 

BEGi’s manual states that the exhaust manifold studs might give a clearance problem on some vehicles. There was no “might” involved on my wife’s ’95 Miata and so we hacked sawed off 4 mm from each of the bottom two studs. The studs are relatively soft, cut well with a good quality hacksaw and blade, and cleaned up nice with a small flat file.

Shortening the bottom two manifold studs allowed the turbo and down pipe to go onto the exhaust manifold much easier, and also allowed me to use a 12-point high strength nut on the least accessible bottom rear turbo mount stud. The 12-point nut was necessary because there simply wasn’t enough access to tighten the supplied nut on that bottom rear stud, though we tried for over an hour. The nut I was used was from a late ‘70’s early ‘80’s BMW motorcycle final drive attachment stud. I don’t know how available they are today, but I had a couple hanging around and no other nut I tried would work. I imagine it wouldn’t be too difficult to find similar nuts with a bit of on-line searching.

The photos below show a comparison between the smaller 12-point nut and the nut supplied with the BEGi turbo kit; the 12-point nut takes a 12mm wrench; the stock nut from BEGi takes a 15mm wrench. The bottom photo shows my thin-wall 12mm box wrench on the lower rear nut with plenty or clearance for tightening.

 

The stainless steel turbo oil return line that goes into the oil pan will likely rub against one of your power steering hoses. Running the return line within a 1” I.D. rubber heater hose about a foot-and-a-half long should take care of the problem without the need for any special brackets or other wizardry. Along those same lines, the remaining smaller diameter stainless steel lines to and from the turbo should fit within the 5/8 inch I.D. hose BEGi supplies for the radiator bypass. The one most likely to give you trouble is the one from the engine block to the distribution block, but depending on how you route the lines almost any of them could foul one thing or another; just ask for another three feet of 5/8 inch I.D. hose from BEGi and you should have plenty.

The photos below show the turbo oil return line as it was installed from the kit, and with the 1" I.D. rubber hose sleeve. Just be sure there's enough room between the top end of the hose and the turbo to prevent the hose from burning up.

 

Here's those smaller stainless steel oil and water feed and return lines photographed next to the 5/8-inch I.D. radiator hose supplied by BEGi.

 

I had the same problem with the bit in my Bosch. Had to bust out the corded industrial power drill to fit that one.

That would be a nice fix.

 

Another big help is a right-angle drill head like this one. I got it from Amazon.com for around $30.

 

nice tips. I ended up grinding down the head of a 15mm stubby wrench to turn that nut, as well as grinding down a little of the turbine housing as the nut wouldn't lay flat to begin with.

 

I like the heat riser piping, good idea.

12 point nuts should be available from mcmaster.com

 

(stupid computer)


Anyway, the 12 point nut looks like one of the ARP headstud nuts I used recently. So, if the threads are the same pitch, ect, then that may be another potential source.

 

I made the same complaint about the drill bit a year ago when I helped a member install his S1 kit. We had to go out and buy another bit. I see BEGi takes my words to heart :P

 

Thanks for the tips. I'm in the process of installing a Begi S2 on a '90. One problem I'm having is getting the compressor to IC pipe to fit past the AC and PS. It looks like you have PS and living in CA I'm assuming AC. Did you have any issues getting the first IC pipe coming off the compressor to fit? Any chance you can send me a picture of it from the top and bottom of your car?

Sorry for the thread jack. I tried to PM you but MT.net wont allow it, due to low post count.

Thanks

 

Ironlung, I don't have PS but I do have A/C and I had the same problem with the lines. My solution was to place a 2x4 on the lines and hammer away with a deadblow until they were bent downwards enough to fit the IC piping.

 

I did have to yank down a bit on that AC line where the upper most IC tube was trapped against it while my son wiggled the IC tube into position, but once past the AC line everything fit perfectly. Actually, I hung from that line and pushed myself against the bottom of the car. I believe we positioned the IC tube from the top of the car downward, but I'm not positive. It was a bit of a struggle, but nothing major.

You can't see it in the photo, but there's about an inch of clearance between the AC line and the IC tube.

 

Another tip: On my particular BEGi kit the hood prop rubbed through the powdercoat on my intake manifold IC pipe. It's probably a good idea to put a soft rubber sleeve or something between the pipe and hood prop.

In the photograph below I've moved the hood prop out of the way to show the scar, and the shrink-wrap tubing on the prop is a temporary fix until I can find something more suitable.