someone told me a Greddy kit can be installed in 3 hours? damn. the Jackson kit looks easier though. is there an oil line that needs to be tapped into the block? thanks.

 

3 hours? No, if you have 5 people maybe, but I doubt it.

Tapping the oil pan for the turbo oil drain is not necessary but will make for a cleaner install and less worries. I didn't tap mine and I've been running with the provided drain line for 3000+ miles with no problems.

If you're looking for ultimate power, go with the Greddy.

 

all depends on your Greddy kit. Mine came with misaligned holes on both turbine to manifold and manifold to head. It took time to bore out the holes to fit. Plus you'll need to cut the relief slits in the manifold and probably replace all the studs.

 

3 hours sounds about right. I had mine in drivable condition in about 2 1/2 hours. Then it took another hour or so to get the exhaust back on and heat wrap everything. The greddy kit is no more involved than doing a header install in my opinion.

 

I installed a greddy kit with Rappadan and That7guy in 2 hours to the dot, started at 9 and finished at 11.

it's easy as ****.

 

Just don't torque the oil feed bolt too much.

It may look like a steel piece, but believe me, it's not.

 

2 hours. Greddy FTW!!!!!! It is soooo easy. Stupid easy at that! And i could not have done it w. out my friends scott and 7!!!!

 

Okay, there's the reason it could take many hours. I did it by myself overnight. And that was the first time I've even TOUCHED a turbo.

 

Installed my Greddy in like 3 hours by myself, not hard.

However...

Now that the Begi-S is out don't even bother with the Greddy.

 

Yeah i installed my DIy turbo kit in about 8 hours that counts modifying stuff and macking mockups for one off parts but not travel time :( getting parts etc. And it was the first turbo i had ever seen much less installed. Now i can install and restall the turbo setup and could go back to stock if my exhaust would let me in about 1-2 hours easy and put it back on in the same time.

 

does the greddy kit come with everything needed to get the car running?

like open box, put manifold on, install turbo, oil lines, oil line pieces

so all you need is tools, and the car will start up and run about?

if any of you have installed the greddy kit, pm me,
so i can ask u a buncha stupid questions

 

ask stupid questions here man, no need for general knowledge to be private.

 

on most forums i join, people flame like theres no tomorrow,,

anywhooo

ok, so i buy the greddy kit,
it comes in the mail

i tread outside with my tool box, 200 piece or so,,

ive changed my own clutch, flywheel,
didnt know the string around the end of tranny trick,
used two jacks instead.... sucked, o well



1 . will i be able to get it done in a weekend?
(with help from my cousin whos crafty with turbo's)

2 . any special tools needed?

3 . does the kit come with everything to run 4-5lbs out of the box?
or will i need some other parts, ie - oil lines? fittings?, fuel managment,
e manage or mega squirt or somthing nutty that costs alot

 

We do it here too, but only when people are ********, or demonstrate a resistance to using the "search" feature of the forum. Or if they have the words "drift" or "leet" (or any variation thereof) in their username.

Probably. It's really not all that complex, just be sure to read through the instructions completely beforehand, triple-check that you have all the parts (I didn't) and have on-hand any "extra" pieces before you start.

Depends on your definition of special, and how much you plan to modify. I'd have a 3/8" NPT tap and appropriate drill available (more on that later). Also a dremel with a carbide bit just in case anything needs tweaking. Oh, and a hacksaw with a sharp metal blade.

Technically, it comes complete. Although some of the parts it comes with are crap.

For starters, take every single nut, bolt, and washer that it comes with to your local ACE Hardware store or equivalent (Home Depot / Lowes won't cut it) and buy an equivalent replacement part in class 10.9. Not stainless- class 10.9 only. The stock hardware is crap and will corrode quickly, then break if you ever try to remove it.

Call FM and buy four of these washers for the turbo to manifold connection: http://flyinmiata.com/index.php?dept...umber=36-30300

Use red Locktite on the fasteners that hold the air filter to the AFM. Otherwise they may come off and be ingested by the compressor.

Go to NAPA and buy four NGK BKR7E spark plugs. They should come pre-gapped to about .035", which is what you want. Install them.

While there, buy a jar of Permatex copper hi-temp anti seize compound. Use this on every single nut and bolt involved.

The oil drain that Greddy provides is crap. It involves running a flimsy rubber hose all the way around the front of the engine to a fitting on the intake side. Many people prefer to re-jigger the oil drain system using a flange at the turbo, some -8 or -10AN hose with fittings, and a 3/8" NPT (or 1/2" NPT) fitting screwed into the hole that you're going to drill into the side of your oil pan. Hence the tap & drill specified in #2. ( around this site for info- many different ways to do it)

The stock oil supply line isn't optimal from a fitment standpoint, but it's usable.

Also, for Manifold Cuts. Yes, you are literally going to take a hacksaw to the header flange of your shiny new manifold.

Despite what the instructions say, pre-assemble the turbo onto the manifold before you install the manifold on the head.

I'd also suggest you buy some new fuel-injection hose and proper fuel-injection clamps. The stuff that came with the kit looked questionable to me.

Go ahead and replace your fuel filter right now. Also, go to PepBoys and buy a Stant # 13868 180º thermostat and a new gasket.

I'm sure there are others...

 

Oh, one other thing that I forgot:

Don't buy the Greddy kit.

Seriously. Bell Engineering recently released an ultra-low-cost version of their hugely cool turbo system, called the BEGi-S. It's a few pennies more, but for that you get a better manifold, a better turbo, a better downpipe, the best AFPR in the business, genuinely good factory support, oil lines that fit, instructions that are legible and written by a native speaker of English with regard for a left-hand-drive (US-spec) car, an intake crossover pipe that won't rupture, an air filter that doesn't try to occupy the same space as your brake master cylinder, yaddayaddayadda.

Linky: http://www.bellengineering.net/Pages...ems_BEGiS.html

 

way to go Joe

 

Hi agree with Joe, get the BEGI-S kit UNLESS you can find a cheap used upgraded greddy kit (IC, fuel/timing management, BOV, AFPR, etc.).

 

thanx alot guys, the begi kit looks great,

ill probly buy the tap kit from them also, seeing as it makes it simple

also, does the base begi kit come with the fuel pressure riser?

or somthing along those lines? i just want to buy a kit that i can install,

and then drive my car to work the next day

 

Yes, that's the beauty of it. It includes the AFPR, however it does not include the expensive Pierburg axillary fuel pump. Assuming your stock fuel pump is in good shape, you'll be able to do 5 or 6 PSI on that alone. In the future, when you wish to upgrade, you can add a high-pressure fuel pump separately.

That's pretty much it. I'd still suggest picking up the BKR7Es, the anti-seize, thermostat, etc (I think we just had a thread about this) and I'd probably splurge for the stainless oil lines and the boost gauge. You might also find a cheap fuel pressure gauge handy during the install - figure $40 for that.

I can't really think of much more.

 

yea, im going for driveability, im 20 and cant really afford it break down, or blowing up,
so it will be on stock setup for a while, running no more than 5lbs
i will def go with a new thermostat and new plugs, maybe wires too,

will this setup be good with a front mount?
also, ive been looking into the bipes acu, what that about and whats it do? exactly lol
i see it retards ur timing and such, making it a bit safer to run boost.

thanx