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Old 01-18-2013, 05:41 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2kmiata View Post
installing a propsport boost gauge and the wiring instructions threw me off.
Red: 12V constant power (power all the time)
Orange: Headlight/taillight power (only power when lights on)
White: 12V ignition power (power with key)

Anyone know a convenient under the dash power source I can tap into for these?
For 12V ignition "white" research says I can either tap into the blue connector near the driver headlight or the connector underneath the shifter. I'll do the shifter route

As for red I cant think of any other lines.
Research says the dimmer switch power line, but i think that's just another ignition power.
Some say the ECU power, makes sense....but no idea where that would be under the dash.

And orange
I'm guessing i find the direct power supply line for the headlight and splice it?...hoping there's a convenient wire under the dash

Thoughts?
If i can figure it out i guess i'll just wire all the powers together -_-
Do you want the gauge to change colors when you turn the headlights on? Thats the only reason for wiring it that way
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #22
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Anyone know a convenient under the dash power source I can tap into for these?
Where're you putting the gauge? If it's in the center console I tapped the cigarette lighter wires for switched power (white wire for you)/ground. This conection turns on when the car is turned on. For the orange wire I tapped one of the wires that run to the airbag indicator that gets +12v when the accessory/headlights are turned on; sorry, don't remember which one. This allows white back-lighting during the daytime, and orange/red at night.

Constant +12v you can steal one of the wires to the radio that's always powered to keep its settings. This wire isn't strictly necessary, since it's only to keep the memory of the highest boost/temp reached or whatever.
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:08 AM   #23
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Couldn't find that airbag wire and I don't care for the headlight feature....so guess i'll just send that orange wire to straight ground.

I couldn't get access to the radio, but some research says i can tap into the 10A room fuse for the constant power.
I couldn't find one of those "add a circuit" fuse adapters but for the convenience i was wondering the fuse is basically a shorted wire with a current limiting element right?
that said, i could theoretically pull the fuse out, shove my wire down the slot and reinsert the fuse over the wire....yes sounds sloppy but i imagine its a pretty tight fit so still pretty solid?

if not i'll just send it to the switched power also
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:46 AM   #24
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i could theoretically pull the fuse out, shove my wire down the slot and reinsert the fuse over the wire....yes sounds sloppy but i imagine its a pretty tight fit so still pretty solid?
You could do that, but it may wear out the terminals holding the fuse in. They sell little fuse-tapping pieces like this:

that do essentially the same thing (and some people report having the same negative side-effect).
If you go that route (wire or tap), make SURE you're tapping the grounded side of the fuse supply. If you tap the hot side then you're essentially using an un-fused source and can/will burn out your wiring harness should something go wrong.

Try asking the guys at Autozone what they have to tap into your fuse block. They should have something there to allow it, there's several products now to make this easy.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:29 PM   #25
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So good news is i started the car.
AFR off the DB gauge read 14 - 16...i'll assume i'm safe since it sounds like some people idle as high 19.

Unfortunately my MS virtual dash AFR gauge is at a constant 7.35.....0V? Not sure why its not detecting. I set LC1 outputs 1 and 2 practically about the same, but the MS still says 7.35.

The only thing i can think of is the DB gauge orange wire, headlight power, is grounded to a nut in the shifter instead of taking it to the ECU ground location.

I suppose i could swap the LC1 outputs and see what happens but don't look forward to redoing my "clean" solder work :(

I verified per the manual that i should use pin 8 of the MS PNP connector.

The fact that its a constant 7.35 has me worried something is shorting it to ground.

Any ideas what it could be?
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:14 PM   #26
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Did you go in to Tools and calibrate the AFR?
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:36 PM   #27
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Tools under the Megatune Software?

I went into Innovate's LM Programmer > assigned the 14.7 gasoline and adjusted the outputs
Also went into the Megatune configurator and changed the setting.ini to LC-1 default
Changed my EGO type and switch points.

Now this tools and configurating the AFR you speak of...don't know where i would find that option
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Tools under the Megatune Software?
If you're not using TunerStudio & MegalogViewer then you're doing it wrong:
EFI Analytics TunerStudio | tunerstudio.com

Both pieces of software are well worth the price compared to Megatune (Even at the price of free)
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:23 PM   #29
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megatune lol

what is this, 2008?
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:24 AM   #30
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Omg it's going to cost 50 or 60 bucks?! Whaaattt?! Selling my miata part thread inc.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:06 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by s2kmiata View Post
Tools under the Megatune Software?

I went into Innovate's LM Programmer > assigned the 14.7 gasoline and adjusted the outputs
Also went into the Megatune configurator and changed the setting.ini to LC-1 default
Changed my EGO type and switch points.

Now this tools and configurating the AFR you speak of...don't know where i would find that option
There's your problem man (as above)
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:49 PM   #32
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Switched over to a tunerstudio still no luck

Cannot locate the "calibrate AFR option,"....supposedly that option only exist for the MSPNP2 and my megasquirt is the previous generation MSPNP1.

Went under Tools and only saw the following:
Protocol Stats
Tunerstudio plug-in
Calibrate TPS

I swapped the LC-1 outputs and the DB gauge stills reads them both fine.
I wanna say the LC-1 and DB gauge are connected properly.

The question is, are my connections to the MS correct? Per the manual, I can wire either to pin 8 of the MS or splice directly into the factory o2.

Don't really wanna splice the factory o2 wiring, but looks like i'm running out of options.

All I know is the MS is not seeing anything, its a steady 7.35v and not even the slightest noise
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:26 PM   #33
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NM, thanks to all that helped

the manual says left to right 7-12
but the etching on the board shows 12 on the left and 7 on the right.
i should of caught the discprency though....i knew it was somethin stupid
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Old 02-04-2013, 01:21 AM   #34
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She pass her first test drive. I set her at 5 psi and she held it fine. Probably cuz I'm still new at this but that 2860 spun noticeably faster then I expected.

Too many new sounds but I didnt notice any knock or pinging noises even when pushing higher rpms.

Although honestly, I'm just blindly looking at my AFR and assuming as long if its rich while im boosting i should not have to worry about knock.

Unfortunately, there's definitely sound of rubbing going on in there...i'll have to check her out some more.

I have no intercooler install but i dialed her in at 7 psi....no knock no pinging noise. She held that fine too, but thats as far as i'll push it without an intercooler.

I'll start setuping up the intercooler now, but i finally appreciating the love in this love-hate relationship.

One fun story, I was grannying the car through a left turn because I didnt want too much leaning when i know somethings rubbing. This hemi style truck didnt like my pace and immediately tried to pass me. He was surely mistaken :thumbs:

Thanks for the help
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