FM2 w/ Link - cuts out under boost, then remains in "limp" mode until rebooted - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-09-2008, 03:27 PM   #21
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Because the sarcastic answer I got was unnecessary.
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:30 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PUNKSTALENA View Post
Because the sarcastic answer I got was unnecessary.
Who gives a **** what someone types on an internet forum? I mean how does it really effect you? I didn't read anything sarcastic in his post. He just gave you an opinion and you went off on him is how I see it.

Quit getting your panties in a bind over nothing.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:08 PM   #23
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Grace and gentility never go out of style. bye
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:19 PM   #24
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:45 PM   #25
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I think it's time to post nude pictures.
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:11 PM   #26
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lol @ this thread.
I was being serious when I answered. Because you (PUNKSTALENA) didn't read the thread entirely, you came to the wrong conclusion, and now have made yourself look like an ***.
But if you're going to sell your car because someone was mean to you on an internet forum, I don't know how you'll ever deal with someone else's road rage.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:53 PM   #27
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Actually the repair was pretty involved; we only found the problem thanks to some luck. We did check & recheck all the wires around the coils, the ECU, the Link, and everything else in the engine compartment. We took the piggyback out of the circuit and bypassed the electronic boost solenoid. We replaced a plug that looked deteriorated. We scratched our heads at an engine code (P0103 - MAF high input) that we were all pretty sure was a red herring but wanted to be sure. We put a multimeter on several components & compared the voltage drop / lack thereof to the schematic to see which circuit(s) were losing power. This revealed some overvoltage (up to 15.4V at times) that made us wonder if the voltage regulator in the alternator was getting wonky and causing the more sensitive components (ECU, head unit) to complain.

In the end it was the last train of thought that brought us to the battery. We were trying to rig up something that would let us monitor the voltage @ the battery while the car was in motion, when we discovered that the battery wasn't quite secure. Then we noticed the black marks on the metal retaining bar that looked an awful lot like electrical bolts had arc'd thru it. Sure enough there was enough play in there that the + terminal could get within a mm or so of the bracket and spark intermittently.

Hope that settles the debate
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:57 PM   #28
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:19 AM   #29
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Wait, so you did all that testing, but didn't check the connections at the battery first as was suggested when you asked here? Why ask a question on the forum and not follow the advice you're given?
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