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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:11 PM
  #21  
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Take a length of vaccuum hose that's about 2ft long. Stick one end in your ear and use the other end to probe around all the flanges. It'll be really obvious if you have an exhaust leak.

If you are smelling raw exhaust from under the hood it stands to reason that you might have an exhaust leak.
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian
SAE, did you remove the gasket/weather-stripping between your hood and cowl, by chance?

Can't think of any other way fumes are getting into your HVAC blower.
yeah I did remove the seal.........good point.

I just wish I would've saved it now.
Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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When the BOV vents, the car runs rich. When it runs rich it smells like gas. No gas should be coming from the BOV, not sure where. I'm pretty sure its the exhaust but I'm not sure where that smell comes from.
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:03 AM
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no check valve on the Charchol Cansiter?
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:55 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by SAEMotorsports
yeah I did remove the seal.........good point.

I just wish I would've saved it now.
Yup, there's a reason Mazda put it there
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 11:19 AM
  #26  
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It took me a bit to find my leak. Not to say that you have one, but mine was so small, that the gas would evaporate before it would drip. It was just small enought that you could smell it. Turned out out to be the hose clamps were not stong enough to hold the pressure.

Kmag
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
no check valve on the Charchol Cansiter?
bingo... that's a very likely candidate.
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
no check valve on the Charchol Cansiter?
Thats it.

I never put one on, so boost is going into the canister...

Hmm is there an easy fix for this, that doesnt require getting a check valve? Seems i could just remove the whole thing (no emissions here) and cork off the vac lines that were used, or just use them for something else instead of ting off of one.
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #29  
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Seems like a $2 check valve and a pair of scissors with which to install it is pretty much the very definition of an "easy fix."
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian
Seems like a $2 check valve and a pair of scissors with which to install it is pretty much the very definition of an "easy fix."
Thats true, but id rather rip it out and save 5 lbs since i dont need it, haha.

If i were to just rip it out and either plug or use the vac lines it was using for something else, would that work?

Ill most likely fix it, in case i need to pass emissions one day...
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 01:15 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
Thats true, but id rather rip it out and save 5 lbs since i dont need it, haha.

If i were to just rip it out and either plug or use the vac lines it was using for something else, would that work?

Ill most likely fix it, in case i need to pass emissions one day...
From doing a little research on m.net I found that a lot of people complained of smelling gas fumes after removing the charcoal canister. Ironic isn't it? I haven't removed mine, so I can't speak from experience so take what I say with a grain or two of salt.

Jay
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Fireindc
and cork off the vac lines that were used.
don't close 'em, loop 'em.
Old Feb 13, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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if you loop them arn't you connecting your fuel tank to a vacuum source? seems like that could suck through fuel in corners (slosh) and make ya run uber rich.
Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:05 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
if you loop them arn't you connecting your fuel tank to a vacuum source? seems like that could suck through fuel in corners (slosh) and make ya run uber rich.
Yeah, that seems probable. Im just going to one way valve it, but i couldent find one yesterday when i went looking. I went to ACE and Checkers.

Gonna give autozone a try tomarrow.
Old Feb 14, 2007 | 02:01 PM
  #35  
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you can get them in the fish tank section of walmart, petco, etc. they will be labeled as check valves for fish tank air pumps. usually between $0.60-$2.50 depending on quality and components. Plan on replacing them once a year since the gas fumes will eat them up.
Old Feb 14, 2007 | 02:25 PM
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HELP! section of autozone or advanced or pepboys.
Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:05 PM
  #37  
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Alllright, thanks a ton guys.
Old Feb 14, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Arkmage
if you loop them arn't you connecting your fuel tank to a vacuum source? seems like that could suck through fuel in corners (slosh) and make ya run uber rich.
loop the hardlines together, the vacuum on top of the canister is eliminated.
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