Dude. Seriously. What Brian just said will save your motor. I mean, I just threw **** at my car too, and look where I am. A bad motor : /.

 

yes, i know, but I do not now what else it can be.. today i bought i new boost meter to verify that the old one is ok. at what boost can you expect a greddy to glow during hard driving?

 

Dont know if this has been stated yet, but the JR Boost gauge does not like to share a vacuum line. Mine read really low, then I ran a dedicated line from the intake manifold to the gauge and I got an instant 3psi increase over what it originally said.

 

Have you checked your system for boost leaks? If you have an air compressor and $15 you can make a tester from junk at Home Depot.

 

How?

However guys, I am not doubting your oppinions on the glowing, but in theese treads the glowing is normal...????
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...=glowing+turbo

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...=glowing+turbo

 

Here's how.

Dude, forget the glowing turbo for a second and focus on the 3psi.

 

New uppdate:
Yesterday I tried my new boost gauge. First i coupled it into the blue hose from the WG to the turbo. At max boost it was lying at about 0,4-0,5 bar (6-7 psi).
Then i mounted it on the vacum hose where mye Jackson Raising gauge is mounted (Betvween the intake and the little valve thing that is conected to the black canister that is for venting the gastank or so...) It shoved a max boost at 0,15 bar (2,5psi) and it popped up to about 5 psi when shifting at high rpm.

I can also say that when I am not at boost (when the gauge is about 12 psi vac) and I am diving at for example 40% throttle the needle is shaking.

Does this look like a leak?

 

yes i can only make 6 psi with my crossover blown off the intakes. damn worm clamps check the system for leaks. With a leak that size you are working the **** out of your turbo to fill the void check all the connections. AIC, crossover, bov if you have one. the compressor connection, Or jpipe depending on how you are equiped. Also brake booster line PCV. etc. The is a simple problem focus on the simple fixes first. You know the car runs, you have verified the timming the turbo is working its *** off. But you stilll get no rewards. So where is all that work going heat and work energy dont just disapear or turn into matter. That would be relativley improbable

 

Please fix the leak before your turbine wheel explodes.

 

way to get his attention

 

Ok... New update:
Now I have put pressure on the system to find leaks.
I blocked the pipe between the turbo and the crossover tube and filled compressed air through one of the wacum hoses on the intake. At first I had a leak between the throttlebody and the crossover pipe. That is fixed, but still I only get 3 psi.. :(

However, when I am shifting gear at full rpm the boost is for aprox. 1\2 sec (after I have released the clutch) at 5 psi and then drops to 3 again...

HELP....

 

Do you have a BOV?

 

Nope..

 

Compressor seal. On the turbo. did your leak test test the turbo itself.

 

No, but when I mounted an extra boost gauge on the blue hose on the WG i got about 6.5 psi... Does not that say that the turbo is doing it`s job??

 

Boost leak somewhere. If you are getting 6.5psi directly from the turbo, and only 3psi from the intake manifold you have a boost leak somewhere. The air HAS to be going somewhere and it isn't the intake manifold.

 

I'll agree to those saying the gauge should be on it's own port on the manifold. I don't know if it's the same for all manifolds but mine has a port on the back of the plenum that was for the automatic transmission. It was capped off. I'm using that. What is your vacuum reading? I sit about 20". I somewhat disagree to jwarriner telling you to worry about the 3psi. Yes it is a problem if your supposed to be at 6 but your already running lean at 3 so get that figured out first before you raise the boost (or fix that problem). If your car has the airflow meter, and you have a boost leak, that air is not going into the engine but the ECU assumes it is, measures it, and injects more fuel. In that case you'd be running rich. If your not building boost and running a bypass valve, and not running rich, then check your bypass valve. If it's leaking you'll loose boost without effecting the airflow meter and air/fuel numbers.
$.02

 

I am at about 22 in vac.

What do you mean bybypass valve?

 

Happy uppdate!
I replaced some vacum hoses and relocated the bosst gauge to a singke port on the inntake mani. Now i have adjusted the prassure down to 4.5- 5 psi. The AF meeter is still on the top end of the stoich range but that is the same value as I read before going greddy kit. The turbo is glowing sometimes after dooing hard runs upp hills and 100 mph. Just a small glow back at the ent of the turbo where the WG is... I think I can relax now....

 

glad to hear you got it sorted out.