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Old 08-01-2013, 10:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Kenny McKee View Post
I apologize if I sound a little whiny. I fully expected some resistance and since I for have any sort of seniority on this forum yet, I know I'm going to be looked at as an idiot until proved otherwise. I'm open to any suggestions. But I would prefer it if they were delivered without the sting. I don't expect to run 550hp for a $1000 eBay kit on a stock block.

I was under the assumption the BEGI FMU was plenty to hold the car while I build up more funds to pay for engine management. In an ideal world, I'd be able to buy it all in one go, but I'm sure many could sympathize in the 'not having money' department.

Currently, I'm working on my STi and getting it to about 450WHP. My miata project is still in the plannin stages and I'm just dipping into the community before I dive head first into actually working on it.
You need to calm down sweetheart.
I've been fiddling with subaru tuning since 2006 and have had 4 so far and tuned a couple hundred at least.
You're not gonna get the info without the sting until you stop resisting or trying to manipulate the info to your liking.

You'll come around, I have faith in you yet. Or you'll ragequit. LOL your call

*edit:
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Originally Posted by Kenny McKee View Post
Perfect. I'll definitely be doing engine management first. Many thanks. So stage 3 turns to stage 1. Any other suggestions?
see, you're making progress already. good for you

PS: I kinda knew you were at least somewhat of a subaru nerd when you mentioned "STAGE XX" hahaha
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Old 08-01-2013, 10:42 PM   #22
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The stock clutch will hold ~200whp. Put that in there too.
I lump transmission with the clutch.
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:28 AM   #23
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stage 4 is wrong. The stock 1.6 clutch holds nowhere near 200whp.

the 5 speed trans is fine with stock motor.

you will need a new clutch with turbo.

if I were a teacher and you were in my class miata turbo 87 - intro to miata'ing and it were a pre-requisite to the class ACtually turboing your miata 101. I would fail you based on the information in this thread. Read more.
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:33 AM   #24
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Do explain how stage 4 is wrong?
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Old 08-02-2013, 02:40 AM   #25
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Its wrong because u never mentioned doing the clutch.
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:19 AM   #26
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stg1: kitty
stgtoo; msguirt-injec-etc
3stages-turboclutchdiff-6spd
4 no more post till pics
55-drink more beer
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Old 08-02-2013, 03:35 AM   #27
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You're missing the motherfucking exhaust
Only the second the most important part in a turbo setup
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:27 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny McKee View Post
Personally, I'd rather have the turbo bits on there before adding the engine management simply because time.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:40 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Kenny McKee View Post
I also said I'd be running e85 and I also plan on running speed density. Sure I could use the timing tables from my NA tune, but to me, e85 is enough to warrant an entirely reworked timing. I also plan on doing pump/injectors at the same time as the Standalone, so I'd have to rescale the injectors and latencies of course.

I'd say the combination of all the items at the same time would be enough to warrant 'scrapping' the NA tune.
I can feel the DSM tuner in you. Graduate from injector pulse width to VE and understand why you wouldnt need to completely re-do the fuel map switching fuels.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:57 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
You need to calm down sweetheart.
I've been fiddling with subaru tuning since 2006 and have had 4 so far and tuned a couple hundred at least.
You're not gonna get the info without the sting until you stop resisting or trying to manipulate the info to your liking.

You'll come around, I have faith in you yet. Or you'll ragequit. LOL your call

*edit:


see, you're making progress already. good for you

PS: I kinda knew you were at least somewhat of a subaru nerd when you mentioned "STAGE XX" hahaha

I HATE the 'stage' terminology. My Subaru is Stage 2.8 haha. I really just wanted to make my modifications modular so it's easy to follow for someone who's new to turbos. I want to potentially make a guide and make it easier for the ignorant to learn to turbocharge their own vehicles. This actually will be my 2nd car to add forced induction. My first being a Jackson S/C on my RSX.

From what I can see, there are a LOT of knowledgable people in this community. Significantly more than NASIOC, and WAYYYY more than (shudder) DSMTuners. I appreciate the help thus far, and I'm going to modify my first post to reflect the changes.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:44 PM   #31
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Well quit thinking like a ricer.. the engine is an assembly of parts where EVERY part needs to work.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:47 PM   #32
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You're literally the least helpful person in this thread. Thanks for your insightful reply.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post
When you install a megasquirt and tune NA, you wont be scrapping the tune after you go boost.. you'll be adding on to it. The 0-100kpa is still valid EVEN with a turbo. That said the cheapest way to do it is by installing the standalone, injectors, and wideband first, THEN installing the turbo vs wasting money on failaids that will get tossed in the dumpster. Hell you dont even need to dyno tune the bitch. Do a good na tune with a good afr table and leave it like that.
I'm sorry that this wasnt helpful to you.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:59 PM   #34
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It's not just the clutch. I said what I said because you listed things as an upgrade path. I'd assume you'd choose a path to avoid wasting time and money. You're starting with a 1.6 with an end goal of building the motor. Fail.

Lets say you wanted to be different and build the 1.6....

Ecu > coolant reroute > clutch, turbo, and exhaust > rear end >intercooler & bov > injectors > etc... Probably want suspension parts in there or something some cops. I'm sure I could write a pretty decent path to follow but you have a lot more reading is all I was getting at.

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Old 08-02-2013, 11:09 PM   #35
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I'm sorry that this wasnt helpful to you.
*insert foot in mouth*
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:29 PM   #36
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*insert foot in mouth*
we dont want to hear about your foot fetish... miatas and cats only....
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:03 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Kenny McKee View Post
Hello guys, I'm new to the Miata turbo game.
Miatas are not a game.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:55 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny McKee View Post
Hello guys, I'm new to the Miata turbo game. I've come from the wide world of Subarus and DSMs. I've been looking up kits and lurking through the forum for a little while. But still feel free to tell me to search.

Currently, I think I want to upgrade my miata in stages.


UPDATE: 7/2/13 - Reorganized the stages.
Stage 0: Engine Management/WBO2 $500
My Reasoning: Get your feet wet in tuning while you still have a forgivable platform to work on.

Stage 1:
BEGI Shanghai S Kit. $1600
My Reasoning: Comes with the cast manifold and a downpipe. 2 parts that are great pieces to start with. The FMU will suffice for a little while.

Stage 2:
Intercooler/Bypass Valve $700
My Reasoning: The Shanghai S doesn't come with a an intercooler of BPV. They're a good idea to add when you plan on boosting more.

Stage 3:
Injectors $400
My Reasoning: Moar Fuel=Moar Boost. Moar Boost=Moar Smiles.

Stage 4: ~$1000
Upgrade Rods/Rear End/Potentially Transmission
Reasoning: All 3 items are weak points within the Miata when going for bigger power.

Stage 4:
External Wastegate/Bigger Turbo $1000
Reasoning: I like power.


Does this look like a viable upgrade path?
might as well throw in injectors as stage 0.5 rather than 4. I'm doing that to get more tuning experience (even though it mostly just re-scaling fuel). Also add a VTPS in here as well.


Also message BEGI about sending your own turbo to them. Last time a check a they take off a good chunk of change for omitting the garrett turbo. A used sr20 t25 is about $100 shipped in good working condition. or a t28 bb if you want something more like the gt2560. Also, I believe they will reduce the price some to omit the FPR as well.
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:42 PM   #39
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~$1000 for rods/rear end/trans?

Are we talking open diff and 5spd?
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Old 08-06-2013, 04:02 PM   #40
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Start with rods.. Change them before they brake and destroys the rest of the engi.


You can probably get away with just changing the rods and putting the rest of the parts back in. Stock pistons are strong.

Then go standalone ECU, Turbo, exhaust/injectors and so on..
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