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Old 04-10-2007, 04:01 PM   #1
Ole
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Default Greddy on a 96 1.6 90hp...

Hi!
I have a 1996 MX-5 imported from Germany. this model only have 90 hp...
I have read that the differences between the 116 hp engine is: cams (the cams in 90hp is same as automatic transmition miatas). Theese i have changed to 116. The compression is a bit lower and the ECU is a bit different..

My big problem is: Can i fit a Greddy kit for Miata 90-93? People Back in Norway seems to think so, but I want to collect as much info as possible berfore I order.. tips anyone?

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Old 04-10-2007, 04:08 PM   #2
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yes same motor should work fine
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:38 PM   #3
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Yep , no problems... Same engine, same exhaust manifold...
Be sure to cut manifold and replace all studs..
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:50 PM   #4
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But how about the power output? Will it be as a 116 but minus 26 hp?
Can I also mount piggyback an other sorts of tuning that involves electronic?
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:55 PM   #5
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Is the steering wheel on the right or the left? If it is on the right, would the GReddy kit clear whatever is over there? Probably.
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:56 PM   #6
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If it's really less compression, that just means more boost for you. Lucky.

Someone could ship you some cams and ecu too if you wanted. But odds are you'll forget about it once the boost arrives.
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:57 PM   #7
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I didnt know there was any na 1.6 miata that made more than 90 whp are you certain you just are looking at numbers measured from different places?
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:35 PM   #8
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It is a left hand drive car.

In 1994 Mazda Started selling the 1.8 which in Europe became expensive due to taxes. Therefore a low power version of the 1,6 was made in 1995
The compression is 9,0:1 the same as in the autotrans version.
I think it is 9,4:1 in the 116hp...

Here are some info that can sort things out:

Quote:
Engine power

116 bhp = 1.6 Mk1 before the 1.8 came out

Early 1.6 (up to mid '91) cars had weak front crank pulley/crank the first year, less than 500 of those were shipped to the UK. Strengthened crankshaft was fitted to cars with UK chassis numbers from 00110630 (final digits). If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN 209446 or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose. VIN numbers not 100% accurate If you'd like, verify the stronger/later crankshaft and larger bolt are fitted by measuring the bolt shoulder diameter to be 1.455 inches. The old/weaker pulley bolt shoulder diameter is 1.128 inches. There is an intermediate fix in the form of a longer nosed crankshaft with the same small diameter supplied by Mazda. This fault can and does still turn up on all the engines. Other odd one is con rods breaking – this seems more prone on post ’99 cars. Both failures are rare in the main.


90 bhp = 1.6 Mk1 after '94

http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/po.../igncurve.html to show it is nearer 105hp

130 bhp = 1.8 Mk1

110 bhp = 1.6 Mk2

140 bhp = 1.8 Mk2

90 v 116 bhp 1.6; has a different ECU, different cams, and lower compression. Runs pretty well (better than the old 1.6 (115hp) in the very low range) up to about 5.5 k RPM, than the difference becomes obvious. A tach redline at 6500 and rev limit at 6750. Some indicate >7000 but so far they all show 6750 upon datalogging. No need for a higher rev limit because the power drops bec. the cams are milder (same as US 1.6 auto tranny cams) and peak at 4000. The injector pulses narrow after 6500 with a matching drop in torque. This is probably so the driver will feel the drop and shift up instead of banging into the limiter all the time. http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/po...ta/bobhall.txt has Bob Hall’s take on this
So you guys think i should buy a greedy kit then? How much boost do you think can i run on my almost stock engine with removed cat, larger exhaust, and 116 cams with only the greddy kit? EDIT: with this boost controller:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...st_Controllers

and air\fuel gauge:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...n_Fiber_Series

Last edited by Ole; 04-10-2007 at 05:46 PM.
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:42 PM   #9
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yeah you can buy it...plenty have done it....don't really expect more than the 4-5psi out of the box without supporting mods. but that will bring you to abour 125-140rwhp.
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:33 PM   #10
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the only problem could be the oil line i´m not sure if the 90 hp has on ...
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Old 04-10-2007, 10:25 PM   #11
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You'll probably have to just 'T' off the oil sender unit, (like all the 95+) and then just tap the pan.
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Old 04-11-2007, 02:11 AM   #12
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Can you explain that i details please?
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Old 04-11-2007, 02:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole View Post
Can you explain that i details please?
Instead of receiving oil from the usual, pretapped but plugged from the factory spot, you "T" into the oil pressure sensor, providng your turbo with oil.

Mine is fed off the "T." Read this. Check the pics.

Here's a how-to starting with post #7. Enjoy
https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4775
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Old 04-11-2007, 03:29 AM   #14
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Speaking of t's, I'm taking off my ghetto one to put my car back to stock. Anyone remember what size socket I need to remove the oil pressure sender on a 1.6L? I left my big sockets at home and don't have it here at school. I don't want to spend money "looking" for the correct size.

PS. sorry for thread jack.
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:14 AM   #15
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Ok, so I maybe have to fix the oilpipes.. I think it will work..
But as far as I know, the kit delivers 4-5 psi out of the box.. I am planning to mount a AEM Boost Controller, can I then set the boost to 6 psi without anny other mods? It would be nice if you could give me some tips about what mods to look for as "the next step" and what boost i can set..

Ole
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:54 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VRTSid View Post
I didnt know there was any na 1.6 miata that made more than 90 whp are you certain you just are looking at numbers measured from different places?
Engine hp, not wheel hp...

Ole, you'll need bigger injectors for more boost, so get some decent ones and run 7-8 psi.

60AGS
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:07 AM   #17
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he will also need some form of cooling as well t25. WI or FMIC. aem boost controller is overkill just get a 10$ mbc or tighten the WG rod.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:16 AM   #18
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He lives in Norway, it's ******* cold! :gay:

Yep, you'll need FMIC (don't go WI, your tank might freeze! )
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:23 AM   #19
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that is why there is methanol but agreed it still might freeze the only time i dont support WI is in 30- C it just isnt smart then. in the summer time you should run it though. :gay:
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