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Greddy Install Question, Leave Exhaust pipe bracket?

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Greddy Install Question, Leave Exhaust pipe bracket?

 
Old 10-12-2007, 08:37 AM
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Default Greddy Install Question, Leave Exhaust pipe bracket?

Hey guys, I just completed my base Greddy kit install and I had a question. The instructions say to reconnect the midpipe to the bracket that firmly connects the exhaust midpipe to the transmission bellhousing just after the downpipe. With this bracket attached it seems to put some preload on my manifold (possibly pulling it downward) and I was wondering if it might be better to remove it. But, that would leave the forward portion of the exhaust system solely supported by the Greddy manifold. Any suggestions on which way is better?
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Old 10-12-2007, 09:10 AM
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Neither is a good condition. If you have enlarged the holes in the GReddy manifold, you should be able to loosen the manifold and turbo exhaust bolts to get everything into a non-preloaded position and re-tighten.
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:34 AM
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I had the same problem. It took a lot of adjustment, and it still put some stress on the manifold.

Has anyone used that bracket to mount a turbo tony dp? I'm trying to figure out how to mount mine, but that seems like the only useable bracket.
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Old 10-12-2007, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by miataspeed1point6 View Post
Has anyone used that bracket to mount a turbo tony dp? I'm trying to figure out how to mount mine, but that seems like the only useable bracket.
The stock piece will not work with the Tony DP, nor the Bell or FM downpipes.

It's not hard to fabricate a new piece to serve the same function as the old support. Here is how I did mine:


In this picture, the sleeve clamp is the part actually holding the two sections of the DP together. The U-clamp is there only to provide something for the support bracket to fasten to. There is a small amount of play in the lap-joint through the sleeve clamp, that allows for the turbo and manifold to move around just a bit as things expand and contract. The lower portion of the DP (where the bracket attaches) has zero play.

Note that the metal I used for that particular bracket was common 16ga sheet steel. It broke quickly. The new one is made from a piece of 1" x 3/16" hot-rolled steel bar. It was harder to bend (requiring copious use of the oxy-MAPP torch and swearing) but seems to do the job. I'd advise building a template piece first out of sheet metal to establish the correct angle of the bend and locations for the holes, then use that piece as a guide when building the real one.

Last edited by Joe Perez; 10-12-2007 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 10-12-2007, 06:57 PM
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had a lot off problems here. Broke off studs. Leaking gaskets (i know... no gasket should be best but it was 5 years ago...)

Once removed all worries were gone.
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Old 10-12-2007, 08:00 PM
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i dont like the idea of a bracket, stresses the manifold and it's a weak point:







if you're going to do it, use something that's not solid.
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Old 10-12-2007, 08:31 PM
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I'm guessing that was a welded bracket that tore that hole, not a clamped one...
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