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Old 08-10-2006, 09:36 AM   #1
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Default Greddy Kit Install

So I got my big box of parts yesterday from my used greddy kit and printed myself off a copy of the instructions... heres the problem I'm facing...

I bought my miata used.. and when I popped the hood this morning to just compare diagrams I noticed something.. Where the heck is my MAF? . Attached is a pic of whats there. Suggestions?
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Old 08-10-2006, 09:45 AM   #2
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Good question, you don't have one. Are you sure you don't already have a stand-alone ECU? You may have an ancient HKS black-box-gizmo that replaces the AFM. Or you have neither and your car runs like ****.

The fact that there's a small section of pipe between the throttle body and the main intake tube is interesting (inbetween the 2 silicone couplers). Is there anything in that pipe that's strange?
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Old 08-10-2006, 09:52 AM   #3
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I'd suggest removing the panel where your passengers feet rest to see what ecu is in your miata. You most likely have some sort of aftermarket controller. Which can be a really good thing!
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Old 08-10-2006, 09:53 AM   #4
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Buying the car used has been pretty frustrating..

If you look in the top corner theres a Car Tech FPR.. under that (not visible) is a MSD "boost controller" module which I just found recently while looking around. Inside the car is a HKS VPC .. I'm not familiar w/ the module but I'm guessing this is stabilizing it?
The guy I bought it from mentioned the previous owner was running a bell kit (boost and EGT gauges mounted in car), however the guy I bought it from (only 4k) had no idea about any of that stuff..he just drove it. The car doesnt run bad, however. From my experience, lack of any MAF generally results in extreme lumpy idle and basically NO accel... none of which happens to my car.

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Old 08-10-2006, 10:10 AM   #5
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Strange. If you see an AFPR and MSD unit, chances are you are not running a standalone. I'd check anyway. You won't be able to tell if your running standalone unless you open the case to your ECU. I'm not sure of other standalones, but the Link is PNP with the stock ECU and ECU case. I'd also check your injectors.

Good Luck!
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:22 AM   #6
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Im pretty sure to run the HKS VPC you need to have the HKS F-CON which is a standalone ECU. They aren't as popular as something like a LINK ecu but work in the same fashion. Once you learn how to tune it it should prove better than the standard AFPR setup. I didn't notice the BEGi unit before, better unit than the Vortech you have. Just gotta get a fuel pressure gauge so you can adjust it.

Welcome to the DIY club!
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:25 AM   #7
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Yeah this is from the HKS website:
"To overcome this restriction, the VPC physically removes the OEM air meter to dramatically improve airflow capacity and converts the system to what is referred to as a speed density system. By utilizing a 16-bit central processing unit, the VPC reads it’s own intake air temperature sensor and absolute pressure transducer (B-MAP sensor) signals and then converts those signals to one that is recognizable by the factory ECU. The VPC also incorporates the ability to upgrade the internal application specific ROM program to correctly compensate and take full advantage of larger, Higher flowing, HKS fuel injectors and/or the greater air flow characteristics of larger turbos. Each application specific ROM program is calibrated for a specific injector size, fuel pumps, camshafts, and/or turbos, ensuring that the correct injector pulse width is calculated to prevent driveability and reliability problems. Since the VPC “piggy-backs” the factory ECU, all factory systems are still intact and operational. Fine tuning of fuel curves can be further achieved by integrating the plug-in GCC or by wiring in a Super AFR."

Not a whole lot of info on it except that its no longer in production (gee really?)
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:34 AM   #8
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Basically instead of a AFM you have a MAP sensor and intake temperature sensor. Since it's already wired in it shouldn't be a problem and it should end up being a added bonus.

The MAP sensor runs off a vacuum line somewhere and the intake temp sensor and what it tapped into the tube just before the TB. You'll just need tap that into your new pipe when you replace it.

I'd use the AFPR already installed.
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:36 AM   #9
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good call.. I planned on sticking with the Begi unit since the greddy (vortech?) basically looks like a cheap painted POS. I just guess I should mark this off as a bonus since its already configured I was saved alot of effort despite the added complexity of learning to use the VPC
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:47 AM   #10
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I think the real benefit is that this will allow me to pipe the filter basically wherever I want (fender well or something).. rather then restricting the location to the "hot zone" where greddys normal location is..
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:56 AM   #11
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I'd just cut up the piping you have and have the filter placed right behind the headlight. You got rid of a big restriction on the intake.

Now put your Vortech unit for sale and gain some $$$ as well.
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:59 AM   #12
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Sweet! Now get that thing turbo'd!
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