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Old 03-25-2009, 01:34 PM   #1
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Default Greddy Turbo kit on 1.6

I have looked around the forum for various answers and found some with reagrds to fitting the kit, but could i just as why is it easier to tap the sump rater than go to the oil return near the oil filter? i have seen a comment on the internet a saying like "using the oil return near the filter and you will pull your hair out?.

if it is a case of tapping the sump are there any good guidelines, also i have purchsed a forge blow of valve, and i have been told and also seen on the internet that it would cause problems with the MAF, what if it was to go near the throttle intake and have the tubing going into the part behind the throttle

it would be running on stock ecu, as i am not after much power at the moment until i source the new 2.5" exhaust and some sort of alternative ecu, is piggy back an idea or should it be a sole management thing?

thanks in advance
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Old 03-25-2009, 01:47 PM   #2
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First and foremost welcome. I would suggest making a intro thread in the meet and greet just to give us some info on the car and what your working with.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4288/

I love linking that thread. It is very informative and answers most, if not all questions one could have.

You definitely want to drill and tap the pan. Do a search on "tap, oil pan, oil return, etc" and you'll find lots of info and pics on the procedure.

And you should also look into the megasquirt options, rather than a piggyback/bandaid.
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:24 PM   #3
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The best set up for you would be to get a starter kit from Begi. Get their china charger with all the parts needed to install the turbo with all the fittings and such. I would recommend doing the following.
-Order ChinaCharger Begi-s kit.
-substitute FMU for megasquirt PnP that will save you 200 bucks, but will cost extra 500 right out.
-get an interecooler from ebay and pipes from ebay. Best place is CXracing they have great stuff for cheap.
-MSPnP will come with all you need.
- Dont forget to ask Begi to weld on a bung for the GM AIT for you and save yourself a ton of work and have them weld on WB bung and EGT bung too.

This set up will give you an option of later running 200+hp with injectors and a new pump.
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Old 03-25-2009, 04:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushin View Post
The best set up for you would be to get a starter kit from Begi.
if i had not already got the greddy kit and had the turbo reconned then i was going to order the begi kit from mx5mad, but i thought as a base starter kit then the greddy would be ok, how come everyone taps the sump and not sending the oil return to the oil filter
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Old 03-25-2009, 05:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy2k3 View Post
if i had not already got the greddy kit and had the turbo reconned then i was going to order the begi kit from mx5mad, but i thought as a base starter kit then the greddy would be ok, how come everyone taps the sump and not sending the oil return to the oil filter
i see. Not sure why people use the oilpan for the return but i would guess its just safer that way. Less clutter in the oil filter. I can tell you its pretty easy to just tap the pan. and its the best place for the oil to return to.

If you just want to run 6-7 psi you are fine with the FMU. Get an interecooler too.
The best bang for a buck is MSPnP hands down!
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Old 03-25-2009, 05:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy2k3 View Post
if i had not already got the greddy kit and had the turbo reconned then i was going to order the begi kit from mx5mad, but i thought as a base starter kit then the greddy would be ok, how come everyone taps the sump and not sending the oil return to the oil filter
Oil pan straight below the turbo, 10" or so drain hose vs. 37ft long loopy drain hose to the plug by the oil filter, on the other side of the motor.

I ran it like that for years with my Greddy and it was fine for the most part. Now with my new setup I'm straight down to the oil pan. I like.
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Old 03-25-2009, 05:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vashthestampede View Post
Oil pan straight below the turbo, 10" or so drain hose vs. 37ft long loopy drain hose to the plug by the oil filter, on the other side of the motor.

I ran it like that for years with my Greddy and it was fine for the most part. Now with my new setup I'm straight down to the oil pan. I like.
good point about the length of the drain hose. Begi says for their set up the drain tube has to go straight down to the oil pan.
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Old 03-27-2009, 07:42 AM   #8
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were is the best place in the UK to get a mspnp? will this replace the standalone ecu?
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:17 AM   #9
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Call DIYAutoTune and ask if they have any UK vendors. I'm not sure to be honest.

As to "will this replace the standalone ecu?" I assume you mean the original Mazda ECU, and yes, this will replace it completely.
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:42 AM   #10
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Have been running the "loopy" drain pipe for 6 years with no problems. Just need to be sure its running downhill to the drain all the way.
I replaced the hose 2 weeks ago (20e for 2 meters from local heavy machinery parts place) as it was getting old.
Steve
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Old 03-27-2009, 01:36 PM   #11
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do you have a pic of were it runs too? and what fittings would i need
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy2k3 View Post
do you have a pic of were it runs too? and what fittings would i need
Wait....what? Its the drain we were originally discussing! The one next to the oil filter 85ft away! You would only need 92ft of hose and two small hose clamps if you do it that way.

Do yourself a favor. Tap the ******* pan.
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Old 03-27-2009, 02:08 PM   #13
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Either spend $40-50 on the right hose to go to the cold side oil return or spend $20-40 for the stainless steel braided line going to the pan. The hose with the greddy kit sucks and will crack and leak after a fairly short time. Going to the pan ensures the drain is always downhill and adds a higher gravitational percentage to the oil to prevent any back pressure which some say causes the seals to leak (ie. black bumper and/or oil in the IC + frequent oil top-offs).
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Old 03-27-2009, 05:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy2k3 View Post
I have looked around the forum for various answers and found some with reagrds to fitting the kit, but could i just as why is it easier to tap the sump rater than go to the oil return near the oil filter? i have seen a comment on the internet a saying like "using the oil return near the filter and you will pull your hair out?.

if it is a case of tapping the sump are there any good guidelines, also i have purchsed a forge blow of valve, and i have been told and also seen on the internet that it would cause problems with the MAF, what if it was to go near the throttle intake and have the tubing going into the part behind the throttle

it would be running on stock ecu, as i am not after much power at the moment until i source the new 2.5" exhaust and some sort of alternative ecu, is piggy back an idea or should it be a sole management thing?

thanks in advance
MX5Nutz.com The Mazda MX-5 / Roadster online web-community forum
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Old 03-27-2009, 05:53 PM   #15
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It sounds scary to tap the pan. IT IS NOTHING! Just tap it.
If you want intructions, go to flying miata and print theirs.
They lead you step buy step. They really help.

Good Luck!
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Old 03-27-2009, 08:45 PM   #16
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Tapping the pan was one of the better things I did. I never did like the way the Greddy drain snakes around the engine, and barely stays flowing downhill sharply enough to do the job. Now if goes straight down and I won't have to tap the pan in the future when I upgrade.

img018.jpg
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:37 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddcod View Post
It sounds scary to tap the pan. IT IS NOTHING! Just tap it.
If you want intructions, go to flying miata and print theirs.
They lead you step buy step. They really help.

Good Luck!
thanks for that i will go and have a look i want to get everything ready so when it comes off the road i can get everything done,
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:06 AM   #18
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Hello mate. I'm in the UK and fitted a Greddy about a year ago. I tapped the sump and fitted a MSPnP. Feel free to give me a shout if you need anything.

Also, get on mx5nutz forum, if you haven't already. There are a few of us with the same or similar set-ups.

Cheers,
Alex.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:01 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushin View Post
The best set up for you would be to get a starter kit from Begi. Get their china charger with all the parts needed to install the turbo with all the fittings and such. I would recommend doing the following.
-Order ChinaCharger Begi-s kit.
-substitute FMU for megasquirt PnP that will save you 200 bucks, but will cost extra 500 right out.
-get an interecooler from ebay and pipes from ebay. Best place is CXracing they have great stuff for cheap.
-MSPnP will come with all you need.
- Dont forget to ask Begi to weld on a bung for the GM AIT for you and save yourself a ton of work and have them weld on WB bung and EGT bung too.

This set up will give you an option of later running 200+hp with injectors and a new pump.
Rushin

That is a good idea ! Is it hard to adapt the CX racing intercooler set up to the BEGI ?

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushin View Post
The best set up for you would be to get a starter kit from Begi. Get their china charger with all the parts needed to install the turbo with all the fittings and such. I would recommend doing the following.
-Order ChinaCharger Begi-s kit.
-substitute FMU for megasquirt PnP that will save you 200 bucks, but will cost extra 500 right out.
-get an interecooler from ebay and pipes from ebay. Best place is CXracing they have great stuff for cheap.
-MSPnP will come with all you need.
- Dont forget to ask Begi to weld on a bung for the GM AIT for you and save yourself a ton of work and have them weld on WB bung and EGT bung too.

This set up will give you an option of later running 200+hp with injectors and a new pump.

That sounds good but do you think the china charger will hold up very good? I was just wanting to run 5-7 psi.
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