help me
01-18-2008, 09:14 PM
#1
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help me
ok i installed my IC and stripes pipes and the pipes and IC work just like they should all that is good. i noticed on problem i went out on a drive to test it out. and i noticed that it only gets to 4-5 psi by 4100 rpms..?? and then drops off at like 5500 rpms.. i know alot about cars but this is beyond me LOl.... and it kind of "stutters" when it gets to that point.. it will go to red line but with almost no boost at all. i have a MBC made and just to see i tightend it up so it would have alot more boost almost max boost prolly when i did this.. so i have no idea... please help or give suggestions or ask questions i'll be checking for replies every couple minutes so i'll be here.. thanks!
-brad.
-brad.
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01-18-2008, 10:54 PM
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yea it could be that the clamps aren't tight enough but i tightend them pretty tight though.. i just used the regular hose clamps not the T bolt clamps.. my dad ordered the wrong size. i don't think that it would cause this to happen though.. i don't know there always seems to be something that isnt "quite" right on my car. its getting frustrating cuz we don't have any one in ohio that has a dyno to tune my car and stuff so it sucks..
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01-18-2008, 11:00 PM
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yea but i want to figure out what the hell is going on with my **** now. i just drove it again and same thing... it has goooood accel on the lower rpms with a little boost then hitting full boost at like 4200 then drops and stutters around the 5200 mark and slows down Alot.. some guy just tried to race me and i followed a lil over the speed limit and he swurved into on coming traffic and got pulled over by two highway patrol and i got off at the next exit and left quickly lol...
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01-19-2008, 12:06 AM
#10
Man, I dunno much but seeing as there arent many responses...
Could ur WG be stuck open somehow??
+1 on clamps
Im in the middle of my 1st install, so just trying to give some ideas or something..
Is the rest of ur car running fine same as b4?
Im sure someone will step up man, the guys on here are an insanely wise and helpful support group...Damn, this guy just finished his install and needs some troubleshooting so he can go play with his toy!!!
Also might find someone that had a similiar problem by searching no boost, or boost leak, or something...
Could ur WG be stuck open somehow??
+1 on clamps
Im in the middle of my 1st install, so just trying to give some ideas or something..
Is the rest of ur car running fine same as b4?
Im sure someone will step up man, the guys on here are an insanely wise and helpful support group...Damn, this guy just finished his install and needs some troubleshooting so he can go play with his toy!!!
Also might find someone that had a similiar problem by searching no boost, or boost leak, or something...
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01-19-2008, 12:35 AM
#13
You need to isolate stuff. Remove your wastegate arm and go for a drive with no boost at all. Does it still stutter at high RPM's. It won't make very much power trying to move all that air through a turbo that isn't spooling, but it should tell you something.
Remove your MBC and go for a drive... does it still happen? Leave your MBC off for the rest of your tests. The stock wastegate on the Greddy I believe is 5psi. If you're getting it to spool at 4k, I'd say that's about right with the mods you've got.
What is your base timing set to and what are your Bipes settings? If you retarded your base timing to 6* and are now pulling a bunch with the Bipes, at higher RPM's, there might not be enough timing advance. Your base timing with a Bipes should be 14*, and you should be using 93octane. Again, list your Bipes settings.
What exact model of BOV are you using? Post a link if you've got one.
Post up some pictures of your engine bay, make sure we can see everything, like the routing of fuel lines, routing of vaccum lines, your BOV, and such.
Remove your MBC and go for a drive... does it still happen? Leave your MBC off for the rest of your tests. The stock wastegate on the Greddy I believe is 5psi. If you're getting it to spool at 4k, I'd say that's about right with the mods you've got.
What is your base timing set to and what are your Bipes settings? If you retarded your base timing to 6* and are now pulling a bunch with the Bipes, at higher RPM's, there might not be enough timing advance. Your base timing with a Bipes should be 14*, and you should be using 93octane. Again, list your Bipes settings.
What exact model of BOV are you using? Post a link if you've got one.
Post up some pictures of your engine bay, make sure we can see everything, like the routing of fuel lines, routing of vaccum lines, your BOV, and such.
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01-19-2008, 10:23 AM
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ok i'll try this stuff at work cuz i work at a car accesory shop so i'll go down there in a bit and test some of that stuff if we aren't busy and i'll take some pics tooand try to post them. i just don't know what it could be... this is frustrating
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01-19-2008, 10:24 AM
#16
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oh and i'm pretty sure i have the bipes so its drawing the least amount of timing which is 4 or 6.. so theres that. and i have a greddy type RS good for 400hp.
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01-19-2008, 11:38 AM
#19
hmm... to do a rough test, i guess you could.... take out your intercooler.... then on one end cover it up with your hand, and on the other you blow through it with your mouth *shrugs* i never tried doing leak tests, but my friend has and he's used PCV pipe to match his turbo n stuff and plugged up one side
this might help, i found it "googling" from another website
Make you own tester; buy a cap from homedepot that fits on the charge pipe, hose clamp that on with a silicon coupler just after the turbo, drill a hole on the cap so you can fit a valve stem (tire one), and on the other end near the TB or so do the same and cap it off but you won't need the valve stem on this side, fill it with air like a tire but don't exceed say 10-15 PSI cause you might blow your intercooler, from there you should be able to pin point where the leak is. If you need a valve stem i have quite a few or you could just go to any tire repair place and they should just give you one.
this might help, i found it "googling" from another website
Make you own tester; buy a cap from homedepot that fits on the charge pipe, hose clamp that on with a silicon coupler just after the turbo, drill a hole on the cap so you can fit a valve stem (tire one), and on the other end near the TB or so do the same and cap it off but you won't need the valve stem on this side, fill it with air like a tire but don't exceed say 10-15 PSI cause you might blow your intercooler, from there you should be able to pin point where the leak is. If you need a valve stem i have quite a few or you could just go to any tire repair place and they should just give you one.
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