help me
ohh shizznit, i forgot u have a greddy type RS.... might wanna cap it off before u hit the blow off valve (to NOT include the blow off valve, because it releases pressure)
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yea i don't think its the intercooler leaking to be honest.. i just bought it brand new and i looked it over before i put it on but i'm bout to do those isolation things and come back in a few minutes.. i might pm you Samnavy.
if his base timing is set to say 6, and bipes pulls 6 more,, that would cause some of his symptoms wouldn't it?
full spool., and then nothing, , ill go with sam and say check ur base timing
full spool., and then nothing, , ill go with sam and say check ur base timing
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i just took the wastgate arm off and it didn't stutter.. and i took the MBC and put the wastgate arm back on and it didn't stutter but it didn't get over 3-4 psi then dropped really guickly
We're back to the original problem.
You have a boost leak or not enough fuel.
For fuel:
Start by upgrading your fuel pump to a Walbro190lphHP or testing your stock pump to ensure it will put out 80psi, and replace your fuel filter. You have to do this, if either one of those is bad, you'll run lean and blow your motor, no doubt.
For the leak:
You need T-bolt clamps and not crap worm-clamps. Quality T-bolt clamps are about $2.50 each. You do not need them on the intake, just on the charge pipes. Double check all your vaccum lines, like the one to the BOV and zip-tie them to make sure the leak isn't there.
If your base timing is still stock 10*, your current Bipes setting of pulling 4* is probably a safe bet.
You have a boost leak or not enough fuel.
For fuel:
Start by upgrading your fuel pump to a Walbro190lphHP or testing your stock pump to ensure it will put out 80psi, and replace your fuel filter. You have to do this, if either one of those is bad, you'll run lean and blow your motor, no doubt.
For the leak:
You need T-bolt clamps and not crap worm-clamps. Quality T-bolt clamps are about $2.50 each. You do not need them on the intake, just on the charge pipes. Double check all your vaccum lines, like the one to the BOV and zip-tie them to make sure the leak isn't there.
If your base timing is still stock 10*, your current Bipes setting of pulling 4* is probably a safe bet.
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yea i'll have the t bolt clamps on monday i re ordered them in sizes that are bigger this time.. and i'll put some zip ties on my vac lines. and my blow off valve kind of sounds different now. i don't know how to discribe it though.
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...Type=4&PTSet=A
Walbro 190lphHP part number:F20000141
Begi sells them.
Let's say you've got a boost leak... and not enough fuel. When you install those t-bolts and get all your boost back... you're gonna run even leaner and hurt your engine. BUY A NEW FUEL FILTER!!!!!!!! AND TEST OR REPLACE YOUR FUEL PUMP!!!!!!!
Walbro 190lphHP part number:F20000141
Begi sells them.
Let's say you've got a boost leak... and not enough fuel. When you install those t-bolts and get all your boost back... you're gonna run even leaner and hurt your engine. BUY A NEW FUEL FILTER!!!!!!!! AND TEST OR REPLACE YOUR FUEL PUMP!!!!!!!
Oil pressure is completely independent of boost. It is 100% dependent on RPM. Notice when you're sitting still revving the engine, the oil pressure gauge moves and you're not making any boost.
What oil are you using, and what oil filter? How old is your oil pump?
What oil are you using, and what oil filter? How old is your oil pump?
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um just some 10w30 i'm getting my oil changed tomorow and i'll prolly use what ever you think would be good any suggestions..? and just the oil filters that you get at auto zone..and it hasnt been changed yet so stock 93 pump..
awe-tuning makes a leak tester, also they have instructions on their site on how to build your own with home depot parts. Cheap and very effective. If you are running the Greddy kit as it came it only runs about 5 psi of boost.. It could be you have the stock wastegate at its stock setting ... crack it up if the fuel is there.





