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Idler Pulley Clearance Issues with Begi Coolant Reroute

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Idler Pulley Clearance Issues with Begi Coolant Reroute

 
Old 03-13-2009, 08:24 PM
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Default Idler Pulley Clearance Issues with Begi Coolant Reroute

In the process of deleting the p/s and ran into a clearance problem with the idler pulley and coolant reroute tube.

Would there be any issues with using longer bolts and washers to move the bracket away from the tube? It probably needs to move 1/2" or so. Other suggestions?



Idler3.jpg
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:58 PM
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Uh, where does your heater return line go?
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Old 03-13-2009, 08:59 PM
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that's what i would do. space it out a little.
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Old 03-13-2009, 10:18 PM
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Yeah agreed that should be fine. Get some slightly longer bolts and shim it out with washers. Check the stacked washers or whatever spacer you use to make sure they are all the same thickness so the pulley stays square with the belt.
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Old 03-14-2009, 12:22 AM
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Ok -will try the washers. Thanks.

Originally Posted by crashnscar View Post
Uh, where does your heater return line go?
Pics of how it's routed:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t15057/
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Old 03-14-2009, 02:02 AM
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If its just a small amount, why not just grind off a little material on the bottom edge of the bracket and paint over the bare metal? I guess maybe the shim idea works too though.
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by sv650_ck View Post
Ok -will try the washers. Thanks.


Pics of how it's routed:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t15057/
Well that's dumb. Can you say heater not working for a long time, and car possibly not warming up?
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Old 03-14-2009, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
If its just a small amount, why not just grind off a little material on the bottom edge of the bracket and paint over the bare metal? I guess maybe the shim idea works too though.
Yeah actually that could work too and is easy if you have a bench grinder or a dremel or die grinder. I like that better than the spacers actually. That bracket is pretty beefy so a little material removal will not hurt it. I would definitely take material off of the bracket and not the tube.
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
If its just a small amount, why not just grind off a little material on the bottom edge of the bracket and paint over the bare metal? I guess maybe the shim idea works too though.
I ending up grinding and using longer bolts/washers. Didn't have to grind too much to get the bracket around the large tubing. The small vertical tube and water hose got in the way next so I used 3 washers to space it out from the block.
bracket.jpg

Idler2-1.jpg

Last edited by sv650_ck; 03-15-2009 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 03-15-2009, 05:57 PM
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Yeah looks good. That bracket will still be up to the task. No worries.

I may be doing this myself soon. It turns out my 2871 compressor housing hits the stock mixing manifold so I may have to go to an out-the-front setup like you have. And since I have depowered the rack and have A/C I am using the same tensioner. Hence I'l have the same problem.
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Old 03-22-2009, 09:27 AM
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FWIW I did indeed have the same problem. I removed some material from the bracket but the bung for the turbo return hose has the fitting right up against a good length of the bracket. So I am going to space it out about 3/8". I have the spacers but I need to find some longer bolts.
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Old 03-23-2009, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
FWIW I did indeed have the same problem. I removed some material from the bracket but the bung for the turbo return hose has the fitting right up against a good length of the bracket. So I am going to space it out about 3/8". I have the spacers but I need to find some longer bolts.
I also had a problem with the front heat shield hitting the bracket - one washer was enough to get it off the bracket.
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:07 PM
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which heat shield? I don't get it.
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:19 PM
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there's a heat shield bolted in front of #1.
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