Installed Greddy Turbo Kit and....
 

I was some what using the Faq here on these forums. In fact, their bookmarked. Theres a couple pictures I cant see too good and was wondering these following questions.
A. On the block for the braided oil line, do I use the bigger bolt on the block or the smaller? And I just use THAT bolt right?
B. I cant tell where the oil return line is either. Is there an exsisting line that I use or Do I buy a new one and hook it up? Anyone have a pic of one? Or a pic of anything that would help? Thanks.
C. I have the U pipe thingy with the afm and filter on it. I dont see how anyone made enough room for it. I couldnt : / I have cruise control, ps, and ac.
I have the ebay dial boost controller, I have a diagram of how to install, but have NO clue what the pictures are represning.
ANY help at ALL would be most greatful. Thanks MT.net :D
And I hope you guys dont mind if i post this is M.net : /

Also. Its a greddy TD04 Kit :D

A- It's the lower of the two. The one closest to the flywheel. See here: https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...0&postcount=25 (you can kinda see it in the last picture)

B- By default, Greddy expects you to use the piece of large-diameter rubber hose that the kit came with to attach to a fitting on the intake side of the engine, forward of the oil filter and below the intake manifold. It is plugged with a rubber cap, and no matter what you do you will find it nearly impossible to see. This is generally considered to be a bad idea.

Most folks here choose to drill and tap the oil pan with a 1/2" NPT thread and then install either a hose barb or a -10 AN adaptor. You can see this in the first picture on the above-referenced thread. Also, searching for oil pan tap will probably produce more info than you ever wanted on the subject. If you feel like cheating, FM's downloadable install instructions for their turbos give a good pictoral instruction on how and where to drill.

C(i)- It's ugly, but it fits. Remember, this kit was designed for a right-hand-drive car. :cool: The trick is to get some bend happening at the rubber coupler to the compressor inlet.

C(ii)- You'll need to provide more info. There is no single "eBay boost controller". As a rule however- visualize the blue hose on the turbo. One side goes to the compressor housing, the other to the wastegate can. The port on the controller opposite the knob goes towards the compressor, and the port on the side of the controller perpendicular to the knob goes to the wastegate can.

That being said, do *NOT* install the controller until the rest of your Greddy kit is installed, tested, and operating perfectly, and also until after you have made provisions for extra fueling and some decent timing control. You don't want to go turning up the boost on the stock kit.

I dont see how more clear I could have made the oil feed:

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/faq/oilports.jpg

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/faq/oilfeed.jpg

both in the FAQ

Brain. See how you have a black hose AND a red hose. I only have the oil return line and the steel braided line. How come you have three? Is yours water cooled?
Edited..Ok ok. after looking closer., the oil feed is the smaller bolt. and where it says, "tap here" thats for the oil return correct? when what is the other hose for? Also my braided line is just a line, i dont have all that hardware you have, do I use exsisting bolt? I dont think it had a hole trhough it?
Gracias.

not my picture...yes those are water lines, don't worry about them.

Oh ok thanks. :D

Well, I saw where the return line is by the oil filter (thanks Dan). I might just get a hose for that then to tap into the oil pan : / Does anyone know if greddy sells the bolts for the steel braided oil line? I need one for the block, if not ill be probably getting a new line and bolts from Tognottis (thanks alex)
Or even a site? Couldnt find from their site. Thanks.

Tognotti's does not sell or stock the one you are looking for. I went to them myself. You're better off getting it online.

any clue as to what their specifically called? know where i can get em

Are you talking about the adapter that screws into the block, and that the Greddy braided hose then connects to? The threading at the block is just M10x1.5, very easy to get. The connector on the hose however is a very odd one, and I don't think I've ever heard of anybody finding a mating connector in the US.

Generally, if that connector is lost it seems the easiest solution is just to make up a whole new hose. It's pretty easy if you use -4AN to M10 banjo fittings, which are very easy to come by.

yeah greddy uses some crazy japan standard threading on the lines.

We have the fittings and line in stock (sitting on my desk waiting for slidin'miata916).......the guys on the parts counter are morons for the most part :vash: . Talk to me (Alex in wholesale) if you need anything. :bigtu:

-3AN would be better.....turbos don't need that much oil.

The fitting at the block appears to be M10X1.5 to M10X0.8 if you meassure the hose side.

-3AN is what I use. I have banjo fittings on both ends of the hose since I could source the metric to AN fittings quickly enough. -3AN banjo is pretty common.

I expect either would be satisfactory. When I built mine, Summit happened to have all of the pieces I needed in stock in the -4 size.

As long as you are not blowing oil through the seals it's all good. :bigtu:

I know on ball bearing turbos you have to run a restrictor on -3 AN :eek:

The greddy is -3AN line, but the fittings look to get verry narrow just before the braided line, which makes me think of them kinda having a built in restrictor, not to even mention the banjo bolt itself being very small ID.

The problem is manly this: can you locate a M10 x 1.5" to M10 to .08" adapter fitting?

Nope, no blowing on the Mitsu. If you get a chance, take a look at the opening on the banjo fittings some time. Those holes are extremely small. Remember that these fittings were intended for brake fluid, not engine oil. I doubt it would matter if you used -12AN line so long as that tiny little fitting is there.

exactly what im saying!

Picked up. Thanks Alex. Oil line is on, Now I need to get that cap for the return hose off.....I was out there for almost an hour trying to get it off, but its just a TITE fit. Any tricks? Tips?

dental picks...come from underneath. or pull the intake brace and remove the oil filter.

Needle nose pliers, get a good grip and pull as hard as you can.

Ok. Thanks for the help guys. Started it up, and it was smoking from a corner of the turbo to manifold. im thinking that its not sealed right and its the gasket burning up. Its like a stream of smoke comming from it. I couldnt get a socket or open end to fit on it either : / Vaccum is at 13 and boost is only at 2-3ish and a very noticable difference in power. but its still not running right and still not running to potential. Could the exhaust leak be causing the boost loss? The manifold got RED HOT after driving about five minutes. There is oil comming from the lines too, I checked. Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

also to add. timing is at about six degrees and the lifters got MUCH louder.

double check your timing, it should not be glowing unless the EGTs are too high. either too retarded timing or too little fuel.

you also have a vacuum leak, you should be seeing 20 ~hg. of vac and at least 4-5psi.

the thing will smoke for a while, but there shoudl be no leak, go back and crank down on everything again.

So, Check all Vaccum leaks, Double check timing and Tighten everything down. Got it. Cant wait Til my friend gets here with my tools. At first, it was smoking pretty badly....And then it stoped, then ti did it again. Then I drove it and the manifold was RED HOT. Im hoping its better today after i check for leaks and timing. Timing should be at 6 Degrees right?
Thanks Brain.

Sorry for all the questions, but whats egts?

Exhaust Gas Temperature.

All else being equal, retarding the ignition timing causes EGT to increase. Having an EGT gauge is thus considered by some to be a quasi-useful tool when tuning the engine.

Exhaust gas temperature - Edit: beaten to the punch

Update. The bolt that was smoking from, i cant get NOTHING in there. I tired like 25458 diff. style wrenches. Its not smoking anymore, well not yet, i had it idling for a few minutes, drove it for a few, then let it idle for a few again. the vacum reads 18 now and boost is still 2-3ish. I will be checking my timing in a little bit. Any more input would be great, thanks guys :D. Oh and if you havent noticed, i havent been dobule posting in m.net, i have learned my lesson : /

well it just gets pointless after a while since no one there will help.

Eek. I see oil dripping. looks like its comming from oil return. God dam it.

Can an exhaust leak decrease boost? I think its possible the gasket got burned

Usually less exhaust backpressure actually increases boost.

Oil dripping from where? Return line? Exhaust?. Take a pic of your oil return line from the turbo. Mine had a small kink where it had to bend back towards the engine, causing oil to back up and blow back into the exhaust.

manifold gasket is metal....

If the leak is BEFORE the turbo it certainly will affect boost.

just got home and car feels GREAT. oil leak was from oil return and fixxed that. Thanks for the help big time guys. although, i dont know why but im still only boosting 4psi. any input?

Is the wastegate rod tightened all the way down?

yea, its tightened all gteh way ddown. well, only like a little bit left, like a LITTLE bit left. Ill tighten it up al lthe way in a few when it cools down and ill update

Update. Took off stock exhaust, put on 2.5" cat back, and tightened wastegate all the way. still same boost : /

You need to address the leak between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. As long as it's there, exhaust gasses will escape and won't be able to spin up the turbo to make more boost.

Even the smallest pre-turbo leak can hurt performance. The fact that you can see the leak means it's robbing you of a lot of power and spool.

Well that leak is gone for some reason. not smoking iether, or nothin, but i put on my mbc right now and now its at a solid five. i tried turning up to six, but it would keep detonating Hehe.

That crack you had in the mani was pretty friggin' big. How did you fix it?

I drove through West Sac yesterday... would've stopped by but I was dead tired. Off to Dublin for two weeks tomorrow. I'll give you a call when I get back.

Sup jason. Welded it with nickel man lol Dam. You were???????? You should have called me! dam. Well, two weeks it is then, talk to ya then

Good news.....My buddy got the pintle caps off and put them on my 1.8 injectors. WOWWWWWWWWWWWW What a differnce that made. Derf. Thanks alot for waiting and being patient, but I got miy pintle caps on. Thanks again Derf, sorry for bailin on ya man.

So last night, this morning and this afternoon I was noticing alot of smoke comming from my breather that i have on my Valve Cover. What would cause this? Its smoking alot from there. Even at idle. Could this be from Detonation or ping? I dont get it, Im only on 3-4PSI of boost and I still detonate my friend said. the mods on the car right now is the greddy td04h, 1.8 injectors, and the 2.5inch cat back. So i have no idea why i would be Detonating or pinging.....But im thinking thats why it was smoking from the valve cover. What do you guys think

Might need to retard your timing more. What's it set to with the bipes?

Why do you have a breather on there? Is it just a filter? You need to route that onto the suction of the turbo to allow a vacuum on the crankcase. This will eliminate the problem. Post a pic of you under hood.

or maybe you need something to cool your AIT"S

Bipes aint on, timing is on six. http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ai_turbo-1.jpg that is without bov and with out the breather. is the smoking bad? And one last dumb question, i have expericned detonation before, and it just stops pulling and it kinda vibrates, can it detonate even while it pulls hard?

yes it can detonation isn't always readily aparent in power delivery if the detonation gets bad enought to studder the car you have a major problem and detonation event like the one that killed my motor at 13 psi with a failed WI system all the sudden fix yuor AIT's withb a IC or WI or something you are killing the motor.

So even though im only boosting 4 i would need an ic? even tho the greddy kit comes with none and your suppose to boost 5.5? Dam it. I guess ill chill out til i do then. time to start savin up for the stripes kit :D i have encountered an oil leak again. ill have to figure out that one now. And why do I need to hook up the valve cover breather to a vaccum? I mean...Whats the diff.

Do you not read anything on this board? The one thing that people stress the most is attaching a vacuum line pre turbo inlet to the crankcase breather. That way it relieves pressure in the crankcase allowing the oil to drain from your turbo easily. Other wise pressure can build restriction oil drain flow which in turn will blow oil seals and all kinds of bad shit. It'll cost you about $3-4 to do it.

Vacuum in the crankcase does some really good things for a motor. It causes the rings to seal better and helps the turbo to drain the oil. It also gets rid of all the gasses that are in the crankcase and keeps the motor oil from changing ph and making it eat away at the bearings prematurely. I would route it to the intake of the turbo, after the afm. The stock greddy kit has the fitting to do this. Most people do not have good experiences without the vacuum in the crankcase, just for your information. I would definately do that and see if that fixes some of your problems.
As far as the AIT's are concerned, An intercooler or WI will definately help you with the detonation. I added WI to my setup and was able to run 12 degrees of base timing at the stock greddy boost. This is my car, so yours may be a lot different. I just redid my head and got rid of all the carbon that was in the chambers which really helped the car to make more power.

well you obviusly have some kind of issues i dunno what but colder air would help you. ESP if it is carbon build up raising compression, faulty timming settings, cloged injectors, weak coils, obstruction in the exhaust, and so many more things that could be wrong with your car. I might not have a greddy but i know a thing or to about FI either check all these things or put some cooling to it. and check those things. Most people dont take the mantanence of a FI'ed car as serius as they should this is sad. :(

Sorry Bro. Never read that. I guess the breather is going off...And when you say Pre turbo inlet, do you mean before the fins? I mean, inbetween the afm and the turbo?

wait, boostin steve. after the afm? inbetween the tb and the turbo? Sorry guys im confused. there is no inlet for a hose so i suspected i didnt need one. i guess i was wrong. is tehre something i can tee it in with. I hope I didnt blow a seal, because there was smoke comming out of my exhaust and oil on the ground from under the motor

between the AFM and turbo tap a fitting in there and run some line to it. Also the PCV over the intake could use replacing with the 323 gtx pcv to prevent boosting into the crank case. Also did you use the greddy drain scheme if so then you might think about tapping the pan or look to make sure it is truely all downhill and no backlogs can occur.